Very stressed bebe..

[Skybug]

Awe hes so cute, he’s lookin better in the face (not that his face didn’t look good before)

 

[Not_aphrodite]

Its not uncommon for them not to poo for periods of time -- is he basking under the UVB? Does he seem to want to get closer to it? We had said the UVB may haft to go into the tank -- keep monitoring him and see what he does if it looks like it needs to get moved into the tank then I can help you w/ things to get it inside and distance -- it looks like Cilantro could use a bigger hide --

He has two additional hides that are both much bigger! he always goes to this hide regardless of what side of the enclosure it’s on... he does like the log and digs himself a nice cuddly napping spot but always ends up back in the small one.

He is not trying to get closer to the lighting apart from a while he spent basking in his hammock yesterday. I also noticed that he was really active through the afternoon.. I was looking into mounting the UVB underneath the hood maybe on the middle bar somehow?

 

[Not_aphrodite]

Awe hes so cute, he’s lookin better in the face (not that his face didn’t look good before)

Thank you I think so too! He has definitely been more active and is enjoying his sunshine. Maybe not feeling 100% but improving for sure

 

[FinniansMom]

His beards not black so that is a good sign, a bath a day? U need to back off the baths ur drying his skin out , his skin color is fine its the texture that caught my eye, have u ever seen him drink during a bath? Ur substrate is fine, id get rid of the calcium sand, if u want sand in his thank get “play sand” play sand falls through a clenched fist thats the difference where as other sands can be compacted in a clenched fist.

 

[FinniansMom]

Keep an eye on his basking temps too. What you used in the 20 gal tank might not be enough for the 40 gal. Also, if he’s over a year old he might be toying woth the idea of a first brumation. Tube uvb and good basking temps should bring him around, if it’s not brumation. Of you have any doubt, or he gets suddenly lethargic, definitely go to a reptile vet. You also said you removed the background he had, so his reflection might be causing some stress and thus the marks. Sometimes it takes a good month for the dragons to adjust to rhe new environment. Try a bath every other day, and confirm your uvb and temps are accurate. Use a digital temp gun, if possible. He’s a cutie.

 

[Julee1971]

Hello everyone! I’m in search of some advice for my (very stressed) approx 1y/o beardie, Cilantro. We got Cilantro at around 6 months from Petco (we always go to the local places but he was special bc he had lost his tail and nobody was adopting him) and haven’t had any issues with his health so far!

About a week ago I thought I’d be a cool mom and really upgrade his enclosure for the first time since his Welcome Home habitat. I kept the same type of substrate (I have been using - shredded reptile-safe aspens w a small corner of calcisand for digging, w no issue) and his favorite hides/woods. I went from a 20gal to a 40gal terrarium added some more fresh snake plants, hides/climbs. But my dude is NOOOT happy!
I’m having a hard time telling what’s going on- especially since about three days ago I noticed he’s going through a shed. Not sure what behaviors are grumpy shed boy behaviors and what to be worried about, but for sure his stress marks are making me nervous!
After moving him he explored his new habitat confidently, but went into hiding for a while (i assumed for shed), but I took him for bath to spend some time w him and encourage a poo and I noticed dark stress marks on his belly. I’ve read this is totally normal for a new enclosure and usually last two weeks, but it’s coming up on two weeks and there is not improvement. He is hiding most of the time and will only bask or eat if I take him for a bath and encourage him a snack (dusted super worms/Dubias/fresh salad always). I feed him from a container with zero issues but since moving him he hasn’t had an appetite at all.

I got him to eat a tiny amount of super worms and two days ago he gave me the TINIEST poo with no urate. This has never happened before. He’s been hiding/no poop since. I thought maybe it was small because he hasn’t been eating but the no urate was worrisome. When I check on him he likes his normal pets and doesn’t act abnormal if i try to bathe him. But he definitely has lost his appetite, has dark beard/stress belly marks, is hiding, and isn’t pottying as much as he normally does.

I’m 100% prepared to find a vet to take him to but I’m worried if it’s stress related a trip to the vet might make it worse? I tried removing the backdrop of his new habitat as his old one didn’t have one, i thought maybe it was stressing him. That was two days ago with no change. I don’t want to keep messing with his environment in case it’s making things worse but I can’t help but wonder if he doesn’t like a new addition or something... any tips please??

Temperatures stay above 70+ at night and he has a new reptisun10 basking which reaches its proper 100• area.


I want to switch to the excavator clay ASAP as I know everyone hates loose substrates but again, don’t want to add more stress and make things worse if it’s too soon to swap it out. (I’ve never had a problem with him eating substrate and he eats a hearty/diverse vitamin supplemented diet) but will switch it right away if y’all say too. He just loves digging so much!

***Two days ago he had the tiny poo/no urate, yesterday he did eat a healthy amount of dubias so I gave a bath this AM and am fingers crossed for a healthy poo.. but still the stress marks ): I removed the backdrop two days ago, and the new habitat is in exact same location and his old one.

I love him to death and want nothing but the best for him! Any advice is appreciated and I will take him to the vet if recommended. Thank you!

Hi There; Have u changed out your UVB? It needs replacing religiously every 6Mnths otherwise they get lethargic, unable to eat or walk, brittle bones/shakes/tremors/twitching & eventually MBD. 2ndly, those are not stress marks & shedding makes them irritable and not wanting to eat much; just give him more baths in lukewarm dechlorinated water to help relieve itching & help the skin fall offf quicker. Buy REPTISAFE if u don’t have filtered water thruout your home, chlorine dries out their skin. More baths will relive the itching and get the shed to fall off quicker. Next he was in a 20gallon up until now?? This is horrible, he should have been upgraded to a 40gallon after 3-4mnths of age minimum. That enclosure was way too small. 40 is good but u should have gotten a 120gallon that’s minimum for an adult. He will have stunted growth now, which means he won’t grow to his proper length. It’s too late for now just let him get used to it. Now, u need a basking light and a UVB light. UVB has to be replaced religiously every 6mnths. So if u have not done so, that’s the problem; his bones are getting weak and he’s having little to no energy. May I recommend the best UVB is the Reptisun 10.0 T5 it’s a long tubular bulb NOT the coiled one that you have. U can order online Amazon or Carolina custom cages or WallMart. The length U order should cover 70prcnt of the tank; U need to order a 24 inch long one & the holder for it. Then place that in the back or middle of the tank and u need a zoomed basking heat lamp. Zoomed is the best for heat, Exo terra brand I find doesn’t emit strong Enough heat. Looks like u have the basking heat lamp. Lose substrate is not recommended they ingest it and it impacts them. Feed only crickets & Dubia roaches & Supers as treats once in a while cuz they are very high in fat. He should have never been fed supers prior to 1year of age their digestive tract can’t handle it at a young age also the greens: if u are feeding salad, this provides water but no nutritional value. The beat everyday greens & veggies are: mustard greens, dandelions, collard greens, yellow squash, butternut squash, green beans and snap peas; cut them up and slowly introduce new ones by letting him eat off your unless he’s already a good eater; then give him a fresh plate of a mixture of 2-3 of each daily, I throw it out way thru the day or sooner cuz it gets wilty & make him a fresh one. Also, REPCAl calcium powder prosperous free 3times a week/once per day sprinkled on the Dubias/crickets or greens/veggies sprinkle it like salt on fries till they are lightly powdered & HErptivite vitamin powder once per week/once per day on a non calcium day
Temps: make sure u have a digital thermometer & digital hygrometer. Temp should be 95-98-100 or so and humidity 30-40; it cannot be higher than 40. Check the height of the 20gallon is it the same height as the new cage? Measure and get his basking platform/& heat lamp at the same height u had it before in his old cage. Maybe it’s not hot enuff or maybe it’s too hot. I wud get a 75 watt zoo med or a 100Watt one; u can return anything to Petsmart or petco. I use a 75 watt for my 40gallon & he’s about 12 inches away, mine likes it at 98 & not higher. Lights: both uvb/heat should be on 10-12 hours in the winter more like 10 and in the summer 12-14; more like 14. Also when feeding he has to have been basking for a few hours before feeding him his first meal because they need to be at warm temp to eat. AND, the last meal; lights on for 2hours; it takes 2hours to digest their food, so don’t feed them to late. At night remove all water and food dishes; if not this causes bacteria in the cage. And at night Beardies like pure dark and quiet. Never ever use coiled or colored bulbs it burns there eyes. U can use a ceramic heat emitter a 60watt only in the winter for warmth, u won’t need it in the summer. Place the the backdrop as it was also, that’s a big change for him not to have it & he feels safer with the backdrop. I cover the left and right windows only with palm tree design paper and back window mine looks out at all the greenery & trees in the yard & front window they watch friends/mellow shows all day. They love watching tv, or watching things, it’s their entertainment. Hope this helps; but for now UVB needs replacing & I wud order the Reptisun 10.0 T5, get digital thermometers/hygrometer. Both lights on for the appropriate hours, and let him get Thru his shed. And try to add in the everyday greens/veggies oh and fruits as treats a few times a week; blueberries they love them & papaya/mangoes are good. Lastly take him out to exercise for 30min to an hour a day; blast your heater in your house & lay a sheet & let him run on your bed or on the tile floors or carpets supervised of course & make sure u vacuum first & pic up any small items or food cuz they will eat anything they come across on the floor. GLuck

 

[Julee1971]

SkyBug.....It’s 2baths 2 per week minimum in lukewarm/dechlorinated water for 15min minimum YES tap water dries out their skin but if u have a filter system in the home u r good or u buy REPTISAFE it’s drops u place in the water; in their drinking and bathing water that removes the chlorine. All Beardies need it.

 

[Julee1971]

Ok! Went to the reptile store- there is one guy there who has always been really helpful who was there today and said all the same stuff as you! I got a hood/reptisun10.0 UVB bulb as well as a new large dome with their fanciest 160w basking bulb, and he told me exactly what temps I should be looking for/expect in different parts of the tank.. my guy is definitely in need of some sun!!

thank you so much for your help, I’ll keep everybody updated!

YIKES 160 watt bulb is NOT a basking bulb!! That’s a powersun which emits UVB & Heat together & is deadly!! U can’t have a powersun & a Reptisun 10.0 for UVB that’s way too much UVB & powersun a 169 watt for a 40gallon tank that will KIlLL the Beardie!!! Report the kid, he made a huge mistake; take it back, petco gives wrong info all the time, u already have the Reptisun 10.0 for UVB, so u only need a 75 watt Zoomed Clear Basking Bulb or a 100Watt one. Also pet stores don’t sell the 10.0 T5 they sell the 10.0 T8; that’s ok; but the T5 is best. Use it and return it after u read what I posted & order the better one online. The cold side will naturally be 78-80 on its own u don’t need heat for the cold side in a 40gallon. Please get the zoomed clear 75 watt or 100 watt see which one gets u the right temp for him nothign higher.

 

[Julee1971]

Bulbs are like opinions everyone has one, please stay away from anything that says coil bulb, id get a bar light that offers uvb, and a 100watt basking bulb, i cant recomend a specific brand as i use them all and haven’t had a negative experience with any of them, I believe “powersun” are the standard , id get some more opinions on your lighting

It’s not called a bat light it’s called a REPTISUN 10.0 T5 and yes it’s a long tubular bulb the length should cover 70percent of a Beardies tank.

 

[Not_aphrodite]

He has two additional hides that are both much bigger! he always goes to this hide regardless of what side of the enclosure it’s on...

He is not trying to get closer to the lighting apart from a while he spent basking in his hammock yesterday. I also noticed that he was really active through the afternoon.. I was looking into mounting the UVB underneath the hood maybe on the middle bar somehow?

Keep an eye on his basking temps too. What you used in the 20 gal tank might not be enough for the 40 gal. Also, if he’s over a year old he might be toying woth the idea of a first brumation. Tube uvb and good basking temps should bring him around, if it’s not brumation. Of you have any doubt, or he gets suddenly lethargic, definitely go to a reptile vet. You also said you removed the background he had, so his reflection might be causing some stress and thus the marks. Sometimes it takes a good month for the dragons to adjust to rhe new environment. Try a bath every other day, and confirm your uvb and temps are accurate. Use a digital temp gun, if possible. He’s a cutie.

Thank you! Yeah his hottest basking spot has been staying around 105-110 and he has been more active.. I’ve been staying home during the day to check his activity and he has been exploring around. He isn’t concerning in lethargy but still no poop and it’s been about 5 days!! I’m going to try a warm bath and offering him some feeders later but it’s the longest he’s gone without eating or pooping since I got him! The only behavior that’s new and weird with the habitat change is he digs/swims at the walls! I thought maybe he was trying to climb his background?

 

[Julee1971]

Thank you! Yeah his hottest basking spot has been staying around 105-110 and he has been more active.. I’ve been staying home during the day to check his activity and he has been exploring around. He isn’t concerning in lethargy but still no poop and it’s been about 5 days!! I’m going to try a warm bath and offering him some feeders later but it’s the longest he’s gone without eating or pooping since I got him! The only behavior that’s new and weird with the habitat change is he digs/swims at the walls! I thought maybe he was trying to climb his background?

105-110 is Way too Hot. Adults like only 95-100; It’s way too Hot for him that’s why he’s climbing the walls. Did u remove the 160 Watt powersun?? There is no clear zoomed basking heat lamp that’s 160 watts; there’s only a powersun & that’s the wrong bulb the guy sold you; it’s deadly & insane way too hot. Return it tell the guy he gave u wrong info & report him. We reacue and rehome & petstores/kids give wrong info. Get the zoomed 75 watt or 100Watt Clear basking bulb & u have the Reptisun for UVB that needs replacing Every 6mnths.

 

[Warreen]

Okay, totally will do luckily it’s just one corner of his enclosure! No, he doesn’t drink water during baths. I give him fresh salad daily and make sure his feeders are veggie-loaded to try and keep his hydration proper— I have only done the daily baths the past three days in hopes of increasing his activity! I’ll back off of those, too. Thank you!

I've read that they don't like change and I went from 20 too 40 gallon. Was he okay in the 20 gallon? Hope it helps Warreen

 

[Not_aphrodite]

Hi There; Have u changed out your UVB? It needs replacing religiously every 6Mnths otherwise they get lethargic, unable to eat or walk, brittle bones/shakes/tremors/twitching & eventually MBD. 2ndly, those are not stress marks & shedding makes them irritable and not wanting to eat much; just give him more baths in lukewarm dechlorinated water to help relieve itching & help the skin fall offf quicker. Buy REPTISAFE if u don’t have filtered water thruout your home, chlorine dries out their skin. More baths will relive the itching and get the shed to fall off quicker. Next he was in a 20gallon up until now?? This is horrible, he should have been upgraded to a 40gallon after 3-4mnths of age minimum. That enclosure was way too small. 40 is good but u should have gotten a 120gallon that’s minimum for an adult. He will have stunted growth now, which means he won’t grow to his proper length. It’s too late for now just let him get used to it. Now, u need a basking light and a UVB light. UVB has to be replaced religiously every 6mnths. So if u have not done so, that’s the problem; his bones are getting weak and he’s having little to no energy. May I recommend the best UVB is the Reptisun 10.0 T5 it’s a long tubular bulb NOT the coiled one that you have. U can order online Amazon or Carolina custom cages or WallMart. The length U order should cover 70prcnt of the tank; U need to order a 24 inch long one & the holder for it. Then place that in the back or middle of the tank and u need a zoomed basking heat lamp. Zoomed is the best for heat, Exo terra brand I find doesn’t emit strong Enough heat. Looks like u have the basking heat lamp. Lose substrate is not recommended they ingest it and it impacts them. Feed only crickets & Dubia roaches & Supers as treats once in a while cuz they are very high in fat. He should have never been fed supers prior to 1year of age their digestive tract can’t handle it at a young age also the greens: if u are feeding salad, this provides water but no nutritional value. The beat everyday greens & veggies are: mustard greens, dandelions, collard greens, yellow squash, butternut squash, green beans and snap peas; cut them up and slowly introduce new ones by letting him eat off your unless he’s already a good eater; then give him a fresh plate of a mixture of 2-3 of each daily, I throw it out way thru the day or sooner cuz it gets wilty & make him a fresh one. Also, REPCAl calcium powder prosperous free 3times a week/once per day sprinkled on the Dubias/crickets or greens/veggies sprinkle it like salt on fries till they are lightly powdered & HErptivite vitamin powder once per week/once per day on a non calcium day
Temps: make sure u have a digital thermometer & digital hygrometer. Temp should be 95-98-100 or so and humidity 30-40; it cannot be higher than 40. Check the height of the 20gallon is it the same height as the new cage? Measure and get his basking platform/& heat lamp at the same height u had it before in his old cage. Maybe it’s not hot enuff or maybe it’s too hot. I wud get a 75 watt zoo med or a 100Watt one; u can return anything to Petsmart or petco. I use a 75 watt for my 40gallon & he’s about 12 inches away, mine likes it at 98 & not higher. Lights: both uvb/heat should be on 10-12 hours in the winter more like 10 and in the summer 12-14; more like 14. Also when feeding he has to have been basking for a few hours before feeding him his first meal because they need to be at warm temp to eat. AND, the last meal; lights on for 2hours; it takes 2hours to digest their food, so don’t feed them to late. At night remove all water and food dishes; if not this causes bacteria in the cage. And at night Beardies like pure dark and quiet. Never ever use coiled or colored bulbs it burns there eyes. U can use a ceramic heat emitter a 60watt only in the winter for warmth, u won’t need it in the summer. Place the the backdrop as it was also, that’s a big change for him not to have it & he feels safer with the backdrop. I cover the left and right windows only with palm tree design paper and back window mine looks out at all the greenery & trees in the yard & front window they watch friends/mellow shows all day. They love watching tv, or watching things, it’s their entertainment. Hope this helps; but for now UVB needs replacing & I wud order the Reptisun 10.0 T5, get digital thermometers/hygrometer. Both lights on for the appropriate hours, and let him get Thru his shed. And try to add in the everyday greens/veggies oh and fruits as treats a few times a week; blueberries they love them & papaya/mangoes are good. Lastly take him out to exercise for 30min to an hour a day; blast your heater in your house & lay a sheet & let him run on your bed or on the tile floors or carpets supervised of course & make sure u vacuum first & pic up any small items or food cuz they will eat anything they come across on the floor. GLuck

Thank you for your thorough reply! honestly it’s overwhelming because everybody seems to give different advice... let me reply to a few things:

in regards to his youth I feel really bad because I thought I was taking really good care of him.. I had done a lot of online research and talking to bearded owners etc beforehand and was under the impression a 20gal was fine as long as you upgraded their habitat? I’ve never heard anything about it stunting their growth, and he has had regular healthy sheds since coming home.. on that note We are moving into a house from an apartment soon and I was waiting to get a large permanent adult enclosure installed, so I have to work with what I have in the meantime especially since I just spent a lot of $$ on it.. we also adopted him with a less than half of a tail- I’m not sure if that effects anything. I started feeding superworms as a treat after 6mos (i read about them on the dubia roaches site?) and luckily he didn’t have any issues with them.. this was really all news to me ):

After adjusting his lighting he has improved a in terms of activity but still no poo/urate. The HOTTEST part of his basking hammock is 105 but he has two other spots to bask that are not as close to the heat source. Before I had a 100w zoomed basking bulb and it was only reaching 85’ at the hottest point.. I know that I’m far from a pro but now I’m really confused since everybody said he was too cold. How is the light too hot now? I can just raise it higher but I thought he was cold and that’s why he’s lethargic.

although I adopted him from petsmart I only go to the local exotic/reptile shop for advice/retail. there are a few workers there that personally keep bearded whose opinions I trust more than petsmart.. the UVB I purchased from them is the reptisun T5 24” bulb Sadie recommended,

For feeding: I have always fed him 80:20 dubias:crickets/superworms as treats to add diet variety. For “salad” I have always prepared it fresh daily with whatever organic greens/veggies look best at the store and are healthy for him, as well as feeding this to his bugs to fatten them up. I make sure to always provide a good variety of quality foods dusted w supplements and he always has fresh distilled water..

For substrate I am looking into excavator clay. He loves being able to dig. I have tried reptile carpet and tile and I really dislike both..

and with his marks, i thought stress marks were dark lines on the belly??? Im so confused
Up until the enclosure upgrade two weeks ago he ate incredibly well, was very active, and had healthy potties every other-3 days. The substrate/decor is the same as his previous tank +some additional hide/climbs

 

[Not_aphrodite]

He just spent a good 10 mins basking and had a nice big dubia lunch which is more than he’s given me the past week so that seems like progress! Now he’s hanging out outside of his hide and watching some TV.

his arms/legs shed last week, usually his body shortly follows

 

[Not_aphrodite]

He just spent a good 10 mins basking and had a nice big dubia lunch which is more than he’s given me the past week so that seems like progress! Now he’s hanging out outside of his hide and watching some TV.

his arms/legs shed last week, usually his body shortly follows

Annnnd we have a poo w healthy urate!!

 

[2Pacalypse]

105-110 is Way too Hot. Adults like only 95-100; It’s way too Hot for him that’s why he’s climbing the walls. Did u remove the 160 Watt powersun?? There is no clear zoomed basking heat lamp that’s 160 watts; there’s only a powersun & that’s the wrong bulb the guy sold you; it’s deadly & insane way too hot. Return it tell the guy he gave u wrong info & report him. We reacue and rehome & petstores/kids give wrong info. Get the zoomed 75 watt or 100Watt Clear basking bulb & u have the Reptisun for UVB that needs replacing Every 6mnths.

I'm new to beardies & this site so wanted to ask about your comment regarding the reptisun bulb needing replaced every 6 months. I purchased the t5 hood with a 10 bulb. I read that that bulb is good uvb wise for 12 months but recommended changing around 9 months to be safe. Is that not accurate then? Thanks.

 

[2Pacalypse]

Thank you for your thorough reply! honestly it’s overwhelming because everybody seems to give different advice... let me reply to a few things:

in regards to his youth I feel really bad because I thought I was taking really good care of him.. I had done a lot of online research and talking to bearded owners etc beforehand and was under the impression a 20gal was fine as long as you upgraded their habitat? I’ve never heard anything about it stunting their growth, and he has had regular healthy sheds since coming home.. on that note We are moving into a house from an apartment soon and I was waiting to get a large permanent adult enclosure installed, so I have to work with what I have in the meantime especially since I just spent a lot of $$ on it.. we also adopted him with a less than half of a tail- I’m not sure if that effects anything. I started feeding superworms as a treat after 6mos (i read about them on the dubia roaches site?) and luckily he didn’t have any issues with them.. this was really all news to me ):

After adjusting his lighting he has improved a in terms of activity but still no poo/urate. The HOTTEST part of his basking hammock is 105 but he has two other spots to bask that are not as close to the heat source. Before I had a 100w zoomed basking bulb and it was only reaching 85’ at the hottest point.. I know that I’m far from a pro but now I’m really confused since everybody said he was too cold. How is the light too hot now? I can just raise it higher but I thought he was cold and that’s why he’s lethargic.

although I adopted him from petsmart I only go to the local exotic/reptile shop for advice/retail. there are a few workers there that personally keep bearded whose opinions I trust more than petsmart.. the UVB I purchased from them is the reptisun T5 24” bulb Sadie recommended,

For feeding: I have always fed him 80:20 dubias:crickets/superworms as treats to add diet variety. For “salad” I have always prepared it fresh daily with whatever organic greens/veggies look best at the store and are healthy for him, as well as feeding this to his bugs to fatten them up. I make sure to always provide a good variety of quality foods dusted w supplements and he always has fresh distilled water..

For substrate I am looking into excavator clay. He loves being able to dig. I have tried reptile carpet and tile and I really dislike both..

and with his marks, i thought stress marks were dark lines on the belly??? Im so confused
Up until the enclosure upgrade two weeks ago he ate incredibly well, was very active, and had healthy potties every other-3 days. The substrate/decor is the same as his previous tank +some additional hide/climbs

I hear you! I'm here because I am constantly reading/given advice that I think I'm doing something good for my dragon then come across somebody/something else that tells me I'm doing wrong.
I feel bad that I treated mine wrong while praying he doesn't fall ill. I too am confused on what is best. You sound like you are doing the best that you know how & your love for your little buddy shows through each comment you wrote.
My advice is to cross reference each advice by searching online & verify that others say the same thing. He is lucky to have you after being neglected in the pet store for so many months! Best of luck to both of you..

 

[Broly]

I'm new to beardies & this site so wanted to ask about your comment regarding the reptisun bulb needing replaced every 6 months. I purchased the t5 hood with a 10 bulb. I read that that bulb is good uvb wise for 12 months but recommended changing around 9 months to be safe. Is that not accurate then? Thanks.

You don’t need to change it ‘religiously every 6 months’. If you have a good T5 it’s recommended to change it every 12 months but most prefer to change it every 11 months to ensure the amount of UVB its still emitting is adequate. You can tests UVB rays but the solar meters (I think that’s what they’re called) are pretty expensive so best practice is just to change it before the year is up, never later. The T8 it’s recommended to change every 6 months (and to be safe, I’d assume every 5 months). Everyone is going to advise slightly differently but I don’t think it’s fair for someone to say you HAVE to change it every 6 months. Maybe she is very wealthy as has money to burn

 

[Broly]

Annnnd we have a poo w healthy urate!!

That’s great news! Congrats on the poop and improved behaviour It was probably a bit of relocation stress plus grumpy shedding week. I have no doubt you’re keeping an eye on his behaviour and health and are obviously very keen on learning, improving and caring. Try not to feel bad about something you genuinely didn’t know, the mixed information can be very overwhelming and confusing. Caring for beardies seems to be a continual learning journey, no one here is above anyone else - everyone is learning and makes mistakes

 

[2Pacalypse]

You don’t need to change it ‘religiously every 6 months’. If you have a good T5 it’s recommended to change it every 12 months but most prefer to change it every 11 months to ensure the amount of UVB its still emitting is adequate. You can tests UVB rays but the solar meters (I think that’s what they’re called) are pretty expensive so best practice is just to change it before the year is up, never later. The T8 it’s recommended to change every 6 months (and to be safe, I’d assume every 5 months). Everyone is going to advise slightly differently but I don’t think it’s fair for someone to say you HAVE to change it every 6 months. Maybe she is very wealthy as has money to burn

Again-Thank you!!