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Natural Brumation

Red Ink AUS

Bearded Dragon Egg
3 Year Member
Messages
709
Hi Guys,

I copied this from a post i made elsewhere. I know it's a bit late now to be talking about brumation as most of your dragons are probably well and truly in the deep sleep if not coming out of it. It might be something you guys want to keep in the back of your mind for next brumation season.

I just thought i would add some info from a natural perspective though as i know there had been times on forums where people freak out if their dragons where going through brumation at a young age (8 months and under).

Natural mating dependant on Australia's seasons

Mating occurs late winter early spring as the adults come out of brumation.
June-July
Gestation for a female dragon roughly 5 weeks
so say July-August she lays her eggs
Eggs incubate 50-60 days
October-November the eggs hatch
By the time the hatchies become juveniles, 7-8 months later
It is now May-June again and midwinter

Most of the flora here in Australia start to shut down in early May and does not bloom again till spring August-September. The lack off flora due to the colder climate would mean the lack of insects that feed on them. Which naturally would mean the lack of food for animals that prey on insects. The only solution for survival and avoidance of starvation during these months is either migration or hibernation/brumation. Having said that the northern part of the country in the tropical areas does not get as cold and actually have the opposite effect. When winter rolls over in the north of Australia it becomes more temperate and is the time of the wet season, life actually blooms at this time.

In summary it is natural (actually essential) part of a BDs survival strategy in the wild to brumate at a young age as it has no choice. Though this is obviously different for generational captive bred dragons. I just thought it might be intersting to have this info at hand for owners who have specimens that brumate early (by captive standards).



Cheers,
 

renich

Juvenile Dragon
3 Year Member
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3,001
Great post, Francis. I made it a sticky so it doesn't get buried in here.
 

Justus85

Hatchling Dragon
3 Year Member
Messages
379
I have a question. If my dragon moves around a lot less, doesn't show as much interest in his food as he used to etc. is it possible he is going through his natural brumation? Vet check showed him clear of parasites etc. I just can't finger why he is soo much more inactive. He has perked up a tad bit over the past couple weeks but nothing drastic. Makes me wonder if he has some other problem or if it's just nature taking it's course.
 

li

Juvenile Dragon
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Not sure of the age of your dragon but...if under a year chances are he won't go into a full brumation. However, if close to a year he can start to show signs like eating less, not basking as much and kind of just hanging. If he is over a year then this could be the start. My guy always started the middle to end of August and brumated until March. If he is clear of parasites and is healthy, just let him be. If he is over a year and brumation is happening, don't feed any live food. You don't want them to stop basking with a belly full of protein. Offer greens daily and soak 2x a week. Other than that just let him be. I never changed my lighting other than to lower the amount of time the lights are on. When he wakes from brumation, that is a good time to get a new uvb.
 

Justus85

Hatchling Dragon
3 Year Member
Messages
379
I estimate him to be around 5-6 months. His behavior change did come around early August which is what made me think it may be brumation. I have heard of babies brumating in the past but wasn't sure if that is rare or not. His eating is sporadic and he is a lot more interested in his salad than he was in the past. His growth rate has slowed down and he doesn't shed as often. Being approximately 5 or 6 months he measures out at 13 inches. I am not sure whether this is undersized or not.
 

li

Juvenile Dragon
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At that age he should not brumate, but like I said he can still show some signs of it. That isn't a bad size, they all grow different. As long as you know he is healthy and free of parasites and his lighting and uvb are appropriate, I wouldn't worry unless things become worse.
 

Justus85

Hatchling Dragon
3 Year Member
Messages
379
Yea it's just that he used to stalk his food and generally move around more. Now he just kinda plops his fatty but next to the glass and ambushes crix/dubias as they scurry past between him and the glass. It's like he is lazy now. I wonder if maybe I should put him to bed early. Right now he is on a 13on/11off light schedule.
 

zebraflavencs

Bearded Dragon Egg
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Honestly ? I would encourage movement. I built some additions to Lady Annebelles enclosure, so she would have to move around.. no hide to speak of, lots and lots of obstacles, she would have to clear to get after her food...

By increasing the stress by changing things around, perhaps this will "push" him towards more activity...
Just my opinion.. Hope this helps.
 

crypticdragons

Juvenile Dragon
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There is nothing that says a dragon can not brumate in captivity as early as 6 months or less even. It is all on the independant dragon. Dr. evil brumated at 7 months old, had a completely clear fecal. Everyone screamed at me saying i was letting my dragon die but I knew they were wrong.

In my opinion as long as you have a fecal ran and it comes back clear than you can allow your dragon to slow down without worry. I doubt he will go into a fully brumation cycle but slowing down is common and will not honestly be a problem.

You have to take your keys from your pet. If they are healthy and are wanting to slow down all trying to force them not to will do is stress them out and possibly lead to health issues.
 

Justus85

Hatchling Dragon
3 Year Member
Messages
379
Thanks for the advice cryptic, and zebra. It is good to know this isn't a sign of any health issues. I think it may be possible as well that he has outgrown his enclosure. He is 13 inches long, his enclosure is 30 " long, 12" deep, and 13 " tall. I"m guessing this is bordering on too small. Of course it was huge for him back in June when I got him but he has like quintupled (real word?) in size since then.
 

li

Juvenile Dragon
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The thing is this....most dragons do not brumate under a year. That doesn't mean that occassionaly you get one that does. As long as you know that your dragon is healthy and parasite free, I wouldn't worry. I would play it day by day with such a young dragon. You can keep him a little more active like Janie said, by soaking on a daily basis. But, if he isn't basking, definately don't feed live food, just greens. If he is truly brumating and his body is in that mode, he shouldn't lose any weight. You need to keep an eye on the weight. Hopefully this is just a short phase of sleepiness. Make sure your uvb is up to date.
 

zebraflavencs

Bearded Dragon Egg
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Justus. I am NOT saying this Isn't a health issue. As Lisa pointed out, a fecal would determine that.
Hope this helps.
 

crypticdragons

Juvenile Dragon
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Like Justus previously posted, a clear fecal has been determined already (unless I read it wrong)
 

Justus85

Hatchling Dragon
3 Year Member
Messages
379
Yea fecal is fine. He is perkin up a little. I put him in a closet so he wouldn't risk getting stressed by movement in my room and I think it is helping. He is eating more, especially since I brought in dubias. I am going to attempt to raise a big colony of those. And maybe sell some for a little pocket change.
 

li

Juvenile Dragon
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Yes, I read that it was clear. Just saying that as long as that is clear you know things are related to parasites. Sounds like he is fine. Don't forget they are a living thing...they have good days and "off" days just like we do.
Just want to check on a few thing I don't think we checked.
What are the temps....checking with a digi or temp gun?
What is the uvb and the %?
How old is it?
 

Justus85

Hatchling Dragon
3 Year Member
Messages
379
Uvb is a 24 inch repti 10.0 mounted inside the viv on the back wall so no dissipation of the light. Basking spot stays around 110-115. Cool end stays around 80. I check with digi temp gauges with the little probe attached to put in specific spots. The uvb is around a month and a half old, should be good through December.
 

li

Juvenile Dragon
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Reptisun not glo, right?
Make sure you go no higher with those temps, they are on the high side. 110* is really the highest it should be.
 

crypticdragons

Juvenile Dragon
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Having a hot spot of 115 is not a problem. It gives the dragon choices. 115 allows them to digest better and significantly lowers chancesof issues such as impaction.
 

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