demken
Hatchling Dragon
- Messages
- 38
Yes they will go thru relocation stress -- his eating may be off but he should not quit eating all together--- make sure you have a long tube fixture for a UVB NO Zillas NO Thrive fixtures --- and above all NO COILS--NO colored bulbs - NO sand and NO heat mats or rocks ---- basking temps should be taken w/ a digital probe thermometer -- stick ons are inaccurate ----- temps should be 105-110 ---- if you need any help or have more questions please askI just got my baby three weeks ago and I can’t tell if these are stress marks that I’ve read about?
I’ve done countless hours of research but find different information.
Attached are several pictures, can you please let me know if these look like stress marks?
I got him three weeks ago. He’s a baby. Temperature and feeding schedule as instructed with a 60 gallon tank.
Thank you!
I have all not included all of the items you mentioned. My setup is exactly as your described. So those do look like stress marks? Thank you for your help!Yes they will go thru relocation stress -- his eating may be off but he should not quit eating all together--- make sure you have a long tube fixture for a UVB NO Zillas NO Thrive fixtures --- and above all NO COILS--NO colored bulbs - NO sand and NO heat mats or rocks ---- basking temps should be taken w/ a digital probe thermometer -- stick ons are inaccurate ----- temps should be 105-110 ---- if you need any help or have more questions please ask
Yes ---- what exactly do you have? You said all mentioned meaning you have a coil UVB --- colored bulb-- heat mats heat rocks -- ??? What ever you are using that I mentioned get rid of them---- you need a long tube fixture 24" like a Zoo Med Sunblaster or Arcadia --- w/ a Reptisun 10.0 T 5 for a 60 gallon tank -- or a Arcadia 12% bulb ---- bright white basking bulb that keeps temps 105-110 if you need anymore help please askI have all not included all of the items you mentioned. My setup is exactly as your described. So those do look like stress marks? Thank you for your help!
No, I meant I have a fixture that is 24" Arcadia --- w/ a Reptisun 10.0 T 5 for a 60 gallon tank bright white basking bulb that keeps temps 105-110.you need a long tube fixture 24" like a Zoo Med Sunblaster or Arcadia --- w/ a Reptisun 10.0 T 5 for a 60 gallon tank -- or a Arcadia 12% bulb ---- bright white basking bulb that keeps temps 105-110 if you need anymore help please ask
Yes those are stress marks --- ok so glad you have those items- your uvb should be in the tank if the screen is a fine mesh like a screen door 12-15 inches directly above the basking decor--No, I meant I have a fixture that is 24" Arcadia --- w/ a Reptisun 10.0 T 5 for a 60 gallon tank bright white basking bulb that keeps temps 105-110.
That set up is perfect. based on the pictures are they stress marks?
He needs time to acclimate and get used to his surroundings- they will eventually go away but it may take time-- let him do that - no baths or out of the tank - start hand taming him by putting a piece of your clothing or a fleece blanket something w/ your smell on it -- he needs to learn to trust you so be patient- hand feed him some BSFL or small super worms -- or both the bsfl are great for babies and make a great complement to his staple feeder--- do not dust them--- No mealworms they are too harsh on babies stomachs- feed greens every morning rinse before serving he will get most of his hydration thru that and use your BSFL as lures to the bowl-- I can post website's for you for nutrition and insects/ worms-- as long as your basking temps are good and the UVB is properly placed he should be goodThank you very much. I changed the uvb locations, I went on a shopping spree when I bought him. If those marks remain for the next several days what should I do?
No as long as he's active basking eating and pooping your goodShould I be very worried and concerned?
He may go thru a aggressive stage hissing running- keep.handling him in the tank - 5-10 minutes at a time- you want him hand tamed- you can have him outside the tank but by the tank- keep working w/ him-- the puffing of the beard especially in the morning is normal also puffing of the beard could be he's getting ready to shed- black bearding could be pain distress or when older hormones- seeing their reflection- 70-75 at night is good temp for night- so you have a che? Ceramic heat emitter?Thank you very much!
So no handling for some time. I’ve had him for three weeks and after the first week I handled him for about 15 minutes a day and let him road around. When I sat on the floor he would climb up my arm to my shoulder — so I though he was adjusting fine.
But I noticed those darker marks on his skin today while climbing up a little tree. He hasn’t presented a dark or puffed beard, which I read is an indication he’s mad and/or stressed.
So I wasn’t sure if that is his normal belly and body coloring, as I read that most dragon’s bellies get almost black, or puff out the beard or hiss — which thankfully has has never done.
Ok so he's good then -- you know what to look for in the future- when he sheds his scales will have different coloring dark pale opaque white - let the shed do it's thing- when it gets crackly dry you can take a soft baby toothbrush and gently spray him and then brush him-- never pick it off-- you can damage his scales and if they bleed can become infected-I meant that he has NEVER puffed out his bead, NEVER had a black beard and NEVER hissed. The only signs I see is his skin coloring— which has never been black or drastically different
Yes, I use Che at night.
Idk what breed ur dragon is, looks like a regular dragon to me lol, and gender is usually determined when they’re 5-8 months of age. Some reptile experts can sex them much sooner.Thank you very much. Your bd is sooo cute!
What breed of beard dragon is mine? The store owner wasn’t helpful on that regard.
And I don’t yet know what gender.
I’be read about one bump vs. two on the bottom lower when they get a bit older can tell gender.