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100 gallon tank for a baby beardie? (2 months)

Carlyelaine

Hatchling Dragon
Messages
41
Is it a bad idea to have my beardie in my 100 gallon tank? I will be getting him next week and I am not sure if my tank is too big and would stress him out? I plan to feed him in a smaller feeding tank so I'm not worried about that, just if the size of the tank would stress him out? I also have a 20 gallon tank from when I was breeding dubias so I can put him in there for a while if that is better, but if the 100 gallon is fine, I'd prefer to just get him set up in there. I have digital thermometers to measure the heat and humidity also.

(Tank will be cleaned and re-arranged before the baby gets here)

suggestions, please & thank you!
 

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Julee1971

Juvenile Dragon
3 Year Member
Messages
773
Is it a bad idea to have my beardie in my 100 gallon tank? I will be getting him next week and I am not sure if my tank is too big and would stress him out? I plan to feed him in a smaller feeding tank so I'm not worried about that, just if the size of the tank would stress him out? I also have a 20 gallon tank from when I was breeding dubias so I can put him in there for a while if that is better, but if the 100 gallon is fine, I'd prefer to just get him set up in there. I have digital thermometers to measure the heat and humidity also.

(Tank will be cleaned and re-arranged before the baby gets here)

suggestions, please & thank you!
It depends on his personality. They thrive and grow better & healthier with more room. Just make it excting in there, a log in the middle/cool side. A fake basking tree platform with different levels to bask and a hideout to get away from the UVB and the fake branch logs; all can be bought online/petco or petsmart. GR8 idea & better. Make sure the doors open in the front they hate reaching towards them from above unless they are really used to you. Make sure you use the Zoomed clear basking bulb 150WAtt if too hot use a 100watt bulb but 150 mite work for that size tank, raise the bulb or lower the basking platform if its too hot. Temp for a baby-5months old or less should be 100-105 max 110 but that mite b too hot, so do maybe 105 or so; after 5months of age/adults 95-102; 100 is always best Get the ZOOMED digital thermometer. And Thrive brand digital Hygometer; humifity should be 30-40 percent; NEVER EVER higher than 40 & NO colored bulbs ever or coiled ones; its damages their eyes. And the REPTISUN 10.0 T5 UVB Bulb for UVB to cover at least 70 percent of the tank, so its light and bright during the day to give them energy and spunk. Temp for a baby should be around 105 for an adult 100 is ideal NO Sand substrate, they ingest it; use smooth shelf liner from target or wallmart $10-Beige in color not black or paper towels or I use white terry cloth towels. At nite temp should be around 75-80 for a baby as they get to be 7 months or so temp at nite can be as low as 70. In the winter if it ever gets colder u can place a CERAMIC HEAT EMITTER only at nite to keep the side he sleeps on warm so it does not drop below 70. This emits heat but no light. They like it pure dark at night for sleeping just like a human:) Crickets & Dubia roaches only for protein and feed them crickets 5 times a day up to 3months of age and allow them to eat as much as they want in the 5-10 minute session, From 3-12months old feed them 3 times a day & over a year, 2 times a day. Try to keep the same feeding times they expect it, and NO MEAL OR WAX WORMS. Horrible for there digestive system and it impacts them. After 1.5 yrs old u can give some superworms and hornworms as treats, they are very high in fat tho. Also, hand feed greens and veggies to bond with you and always place a fresh plate of greens and veggies diced tiny so they can eat, as they get bigger the food can be a teeny bit bigger as u cute it and bigger a bit as they get older. IF you dont introduce the greens/veggies now they will suffer as adults and wont eat them. Calcium 5times a week dust the crickets with them once/day I pour them in a big ziplock sprinkle the calcium and shake it up till the crickets are lightly dusted white this also slows the crickets down. Lastly, baths twice a week for 15min in luke warm Filtered/ DECHLORINATED water. If you dont have a filter system buy a bottle of REPTISAFE; its 2 drops for every cup for their drinking and bathing water; it removes the chlorine instantly; chlorine is very bad for their skin; it dries it out & if ingested causes health problems. so use bottled/filtered water with reptisafe drops. And NEVER get water in their ears or they will start scratching their ears & have breathing issues and get a REspiratory infection, which needs a vet ASAP w/antibiotics. Dry them with a soft towel after the bath and place them under the heat lamp & u can play meditation music or James blunt/soft relaxing music while bathing it calms them down. Hope this helps, let me know if u have questions.
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
10,836
Is it a bad idea to have my beardie in my 100 gallon tank? I will be getting him next week and I am not sure if my tank is too big and would stress him out? I plan to feed him in a smaller feeding tank so I'm not worried about that, just if the size of the tank would stress him out? I also have a 20 gallon tank from when I was breeding dubias so I can put him in there for a while if that is better, but if the 100 gallon is fine, I'd prefer to just get him set up in there. I have digital thermometers to measure the heat and humidity also.

(Tank will be cleaned and re-arranged before the baby gets here)

suggestions, please & thank you!
You can section the tank off for now and keep him in that tank - I would section half off for now - its going to be easier to work w/ him etc..............what are you using for a UVB? NO coils please --- you need a good tube fixture / reflector for that tank -- and no fixtures the same length of the tank as well -- you dont want him hiding from his UVB he needs to be able to get out of the rays if he wants to ---
 

Carlyelaine

Hatchling Dragon
Messages
41
You can section the tank off for now and keep him in that tank - I would section half off for now - its going to be easier to work w/ him etc..............what are you using for a UVB? NO coils please --- you need a good tube fixture / reflector for that tank -- and no fixtures the same length of the tank as well -- you dont want him hiding from his UVB he needs to be able to get out of the rays if he wants to ---

I have the Reptisun T-5 UVB. It's only on one side of the tank but it takes over almost that full side. Maybe I will block the tank so he has 75% of it and can still get away from the rays! And I have a 150w heat emitter and 150w basking bulb. Thank you!
 

Carlyelaine

Hatchling Dragon
Messages
41
It depends on his personality. They thrive and grow better & healthier with more room. Just make it excting in there, a log in the middle/cool side. A fake basking tree platform with different levels to bask and a hideout to get away from the UVB and the fake branch logs; all can be bought online/petco or petsmart. GR8 idea & better. Make sure the doors open in the front they hate reaching towards them from above unless they are really used to you. Make sure you use the Zoomed clear basking bulb 150WAtt if too hot use a 100watt bulb but 150 mite work for that size tank, raise the bulb or lower the basking platform if its too hot. Temp for a baby-5months old or less should be 100-105 max 110 but that mite b too hot, so do maybe 105 or so; after 5months of age/adults 95-102; 100 is always best Get the ZOOMED digital thermometer. And Thrive brand digital Hygometer; humifity should be 30-40 percent; NEVER EVER higher than 40 & NO colored bulbs ever or coiled ones; its damages their eyes. And the REPTISUN 10.0 T5 UVB Bulb for UVB to cover at least 70 percent of the tank, so its light and bright during the day to give them energy and spunk. Temp for a baby should be around 105 for an adult 100 is ideal NO Sand substrate, they ingest it; use smooth shelf liner from target or wallmart $10-Beige in color not black or paper towels or I use white terry cloth towels. At nite temp should be around 75-80 for a baby as they get to be 7 months or so temp at nite can be as low as 70. In the winter if it ever gets colder u can place a CERAMIC HEAT EMITTER only at nite to keep the side he sleeps on warm so it does not drop below 70. This emits heat but no light. They like it pure dark at night for sleeping just like a human:) Crickets & Dubia roaches only for protein and feed them crickets 5 times a day up to 3months of age and allow them to eat as much as they want in the 5-10 minute session, From 3-12months old feed them 3 times a day & over a year, 2 times a day. Try to keep the same feeding times they expect it, and NO MEAL OR WAX WORMS. Horrible for there digestive system and it impacts them. After 1.5 yrs old u can give some superworms and hornworms as treats, they are very high in fat tho. Also, hand feed greens and veggies to bond with you and always place a fresh plate of greens and veggies diced tiny so they can eat, as they get bigger the food can be a teeny bit bigger as u cute it and bigger a bit as they get older. IF you dont introduce the greens/veggies now they will suffer as adults and wont eat them. Calcium 5times a week dust the crickets with them once/day I pour them in a big ziplock sprinkle the calcium and shake it up till the crickets are lightly dusted white this also slows the crickets down. Lastly, baths twice a week for 15min in luke warm Filtered/ DECHLORINATED water. If you dont have a filter system buy a bottle of REPTISAFE; its 2 drops for every cup for their drinking and bathing water; it removes the chlorine instantly; chlorine is very bad for their skin; it dries it out & if ingested causes health problems. so use bottled/filtered water with reptisafe drops. And NEVER get water in their ears or they will start scratching their ears & have breathing issues and get a REspiratory infection, which needs a vet ASAP w/antibiotics. Dry them with a soft towel after the bath and place them under the heat lamp & u can play meditation music or James blunt/soft relaxing music while bathing it calms them down. Hope this helps, let me know if u have questions.

I appreciate all that input especially regarding thermotemeter brands because im never sure if they are 100% accurate.

This isn't my first dragon, just my first hatchling I have everything he/she needs including the T-5 UVB, 150w basking bulb, and 150w heat emitter for nights. I just bought him/her a new hammock and shelf liner. I have a bunch of fake logs and rock caves/climbs. Planning to feed small crickets, small dubias, bfsl, and collard greens and stuff. Other good insect suggestions is fully welcome also!

Wasn't sure if all the space would stress the baby out but I might section the tank off.
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
10,836
I appreciate all that input especially regarding thermotemeter brands because im never sure if they are 100% accurate.

This isn't my first dragon, just my first hatchling I have everything he/she needs including the T-5 UVB, 150w basking bulb, and 150w heat emitter for nights. I just bought him/her a new hammock and shelf liner. I have a bunch of fake logs and rock caves/climbs. Planning to feed small crickets, small dubias, bfsl, and collard greens and stuff. Other good insect suggestions is fully welcome also!

Wasn't sure if all the space would stress the baby out but I might section the tank off.
You will need to get the UVB in the tank if your screen is a fine mesh - if its a wide holed it can sit on top but your basking decor needs to be 8-10 inches directly under it -- the screen filters out approx 30% -- the heat emitter you will only need if your tank is dropping below 65 at nite - and the 150 watt might be too much -- it will be trial and error -
those are good staple feeders -- you will haft to feed the crickets in a separate enclosure you do not want those running in the tank loose -- you will never find them all -- the dubias and BSFL can be fed in the tank I would get a bowl that insects / worms cant get out of -- something like this
https://www.amazon.com/MACGOAL-Rept...uGQB&pd_rd_wg=tLkwE&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mr_hp_d
this works really well for the smaller dubias and worms - crickets you would need to disable by taking a back leg off etc -- here is a website for nutrition ignore the kale thing its a good staple feeder
http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html
Silk worms are also a good staple feeder -- they are hard to find now tho alot of my websites are out of stock -- I can give you websites for other worms if you like
 

Carlyelaine

Hatchling Dragon
Messages
41
You will need to get the UVB in the tank if your screen is a fine mesh - if its a wide holed it can sit on top but your basking decor needs to be 8-10 inches directly under it -- the screen filters out approx 30% -- the heat emitter you will only need if your tank is dropping below 65 at nite - and the 150 watt might be too much -- it will be trial and error -
those are good staple feeders -- you will haft to feed the crickets in a separate enclosure you do not want those running in the tank loose -- you will never find them all -- the dubias and BSFL can be fed in the tank I would get a bowl that insects / worms cant get out of -- something like this
https://www.amazon.com/MACGOAL-Rept...uGQB&pd_rd_wg=tLkwE&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mr_hp_d
this works really well for the smaller dubias and worms - crickets you would need to disable by taking a back leg off etc -- here is a website for nutrition ignore the kale thing its a good staple feeder
http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html
Silk worms are also a good staple feeder -- they are hard to find now tho alot of my websites are out of stock -- I can give you websites for other worms if you like
The Temps usually stay about 90-100 degrees during the day. Not 100% if that will be hot enough for the baby. Cooler side of the tank is 60-70. I could make it warmer if needed, there's currently no lights on that side. UVB does not lay over the lid. It has nothing blocking it and is about 12 inches from basking area and basking lamp is 10 inches. Tank drops below 80 during the day without the heat emitter because of how big the tank is, and like 50 at night without anything. I know this due to my last beardie.

I have a really large water bowl fhat my old guy used to lay in but I'm going to switch it out for a smaller one while he/she is still so small. It will get weekly baths too.

Every where I check has been sold out of silk worms and dubias! Or at least selling dubias in quantities of 50 when i want like 200 and not letting me get multiples. But I finally got some. Will need to keep watching for silk worms.
 

Julee1971

Juvenile Dragon
3 Year Member
Messages
773
I have the Reptisun T-5 UVB. It's only on one side of the tank but it takes over almost that full side. Maybe I will block the tank so he has 75% of it and can still get away from the rays! And I have a 150w heat emitter and 150w basking bulb. Thank you!
Hi is it the Reptisun 10.0 or 5.0? It needs to be the 10.0 it emits more uvb; the 5.0 barely has uvb and is not recimmeeed and this Reptisun needs replacing every “6” Months u can order it on amazon & do not section off the tank as long as the uvb bulb starts at the hot side and 150 watt basking bulb is on the hot side in front of it that’s where he will hang and if he eats to get away he will go to the cold end. Also DONOT use the heat emitter except only at night if temp drops below 78 or so till he’s 3montjs the morning after 3months the temp at nite can be 70 but lower than 70 at nite is when u wud use the heat emitter. Here’s a pic of mine; How it should be so my hot side is not he right. My Reptisun covers the entire tank but I recovered her from Severe MBD and now I’m getting a bigger tank so mine will cover 70 percent insates of all of it but set it up like this so when she basks she’s getting uvb. And definitely get a basking platform that has a big hide underneath so she can go in there if needed to take a break
 

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Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
10,836
The Temps usually stay about 90-100 degrees during the day. Not 100% if that will be hot enough for the baby. Cooler side of the tank is 60-70. I could make it warmer if needed, there's currently no lights on that side. UVB does not lay over the lid. It has nothing blocking it and is about 12 inches from basking area and basking lamp is 10 inches. Tank drops below 80 during the day without the heat emitter because of how big the tank is, and like 50 at night without anything. I know this due to my last beardie.

I have a really large water bowl fhat my old guy used to lay in but I'm going to switch it out for a smaller one while he/she is still so small. It will get weekly baths too.

Every where I check has been sold out of silk worms and dubias! Or at least selling dubias in quantities of 50 when i want like 200 and not letting me get multiples. But I finally got some. Will need to keep watching for silk worms.
I just ordered from reptilianarts.com but they have only adult worms- no small - they usually have bulk smalls like 50 but they are out-- they do have small super worms tho -and dubias -- try there -- I like these worms --
you can get just silk worms from www.coastalsilkworms.com
60-70 is to cool for cool side during the day - it needs to be 80's
so your UVB is good then w/ nothing blocking it and the distance --
basking temps are 90-100-- they will need to be 105-110 for your baby - adults like it 95-110- usually on the 95- 100 side
so you will need that heat emitter if its dropping that low at nite
I wouldnt give weekly baths too soon - to much stress - you can give misting baths - that way it wont stress him out so bad - his salads rinsed before serving are going to give him moisture -- too much bathing drys their scales out too
 

Carlyelaine

Hatchling Dragon
Messages
41
Hi is it the Reptisun 10.0 or 5.0? It needs to be the 10.0 it emits more uvb; the 5.0 barely has uvb and is not recimmeeed and this Reptisun needs replacing every “6” Months u can order it on amazon & do not section off the tank as long as the uvb bulb starts at the hot side and 150 watt basking bulb is on the hot side in front of it that’s where he will hang and if he eats to get away he will go to the cold end. Also DONOT use the heat emitter except only at night if temp drops below 78 or so till he’s 3montjs the morning after 3months the temp at nite can be 70 but lower than 70 at nite is when u wud use the heat emitter. Here’s a pic of mine; How it should be so my hot side is not he right. My Reptisun covers the entire tank but I recovered her from Severe MBD and now I’m getting a bigger tank so mine will cover 70 percent insates of all of it but set it up like this so when she basks she’s getting uvb. And definitely get a basking platform that has a big hide underneath so she can go in there if needed to take a break
Ooops- sorry it is the 10.0. Looks like the exact same light amd fixture as your. The 100 gallon tank needs the heat emitter 24/7 or its not hot enough. Drops around 80 during the day without it and 50 at night without it. I'm only thinking about sectioning it off because it's 5ft long and the baby is 6.5 inches. Seems like 3 feet would be fine and still be able to get away from the uvb. But if the large tank won't stress him, then I'll leave it as it is.
 

Julee1971

Juvenile Dragon
3 Year Member
Messages
773
I just ordered from reptilianarts.com but they have only adult worms- no small - they usually have bulk smalls like 50 but they are out-- they do have small super worms tho -and dubias -- try there -- I like these worms --
you can get just silk worms from www.coastalsilkworms.com
60-70 is to cool for cool side during the day - it needs to be 80's
so your UVB is good then w/ nothing blocking it and the distance --
basking temps are 90-100-- they will need to be 105-110 for your baby - adults like it 95-110- usually on the 95- 100 side
so you will need that heat emitter if its dropping that low at nite
I wouldnt give weekly baths too soon - to much stress - you can give misting baths - that way it wont stress him out so bad - his salads rinsed before serving are going to give him moisture -- too much bathing drys their scales out too
U need to use dechlorinated water!!! Buy reptisafe and it’s a few drops per cup for drinking and bathing 15min baths in lukewarm dechlorinated water twice a week!! Skin won’t dry if water is dechkorinated!! Also a heat emitter isbised at nite to keep the tank around 80 for a baby-5month old dragon after 5 months at nite it should never drop below 70. Place the heat emitter on the side of the tank that he sleeps on. What I’m reading is terrible he is going to get a respiratory infection. Cold side should be 75 and middle should be 80. U r doing something. Wrong. Long uvb in the back starting at he hot side and basking bulb on the right side or left whichever is the hot side and food and water bowl on the cold side and no lettuce!! Dandelions, mustard, collard greens endives, snap peas yellow squash a mixture of 2-3 if u dorm train him now he will never eat them as an adult . Dice it tiny since he’s a baby and protein 5 times a day only crickets and Dubia roaches!! NO silk worms or meal worms ever! It impacts them and destroys their digestive system. Reptisun 10.0 T5 for UVb it should cover 70 percent of the tank it needs to be light and bright for energy and to thrive and if your tank is 40-60 gallons a 100 Watt ZooMed basking bulb of tank is bigger than a 150 watt bulb.
 

Julee1971

Juvenile Dragon
3 Year Member
Messages
773
Ooops- sorry it is the 10.0. Looks like the exact same light amd fixture as your. The 100 gallon tank needs the heat emitter 24/7 or its not hot enough. Drops around 80 during the day without it and 50 at night without it. I'm only thinking about sectioning it off because it's 5ft long and the baby is 6.5 inches. Seems like 3 feet would be fine and still be able to get away from the uvb. But if the large tank won't stress him, then I'll leave it as it is.
Buy a ZooMed 150 watt basking bulb and a Reptisun 48 inch 10.0 T5 long bulb is what u need it should cover 70 percent of the tank temp needs to be 105-110 till he’s 3months after that it shoidl be around 100-102 after he’s 6months also humidity can not exceed 40precnt can only be 30-40 percent on the hot side
 

Julee1971

Juvenile Dragon
3 Year Member
Messages
773
Buy a ZooMed 150 watt basking bulb and a Reptisun 48 inch 10.0 T5 long bulb is what u need it should cover 70 percent of the tank temp needs to be 105-110 till he’s 3months after that it shoidl be around 100-102 after he’s 6months also humidity can not exceed 40precnt can only be 30-40 percent on the hot side
U need a lot of education because if u do things wrong u can rally harm him. If he’s a baby don’t do baths till after baby 2-3monhs old and never get water in his ears most him 3-4 times a day. U need to order the Reptisun 10.0 T5 ASAp the tank needs to be light and bright if the length of the tank is 48 buy a 36 inch one and basking bulb if the tank is 24 inches high get a 150 watt but the 100 watt ZooMed is the best and u need to have a platform for basking to get him closer to the heat like 8-12 inches is best. So maybe u don’t have a platform or a tree climbing platform go to any owtstore and get one hey also have platforms with a hideaway which is perfect at their small age here are some examples just order it ASAp and u need the ZooMed digital thermometer and u place the probe on he basking platform and the ZooMed basking bulb above it and wait 15min ans u will get the temp and if it’s too hot raise the lamp. That’s the tree basking one I bought for my baby he’s now 8months and I bought him one like u saw in the pic that I will give him I’m about 2months or so
 

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Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
10,836
Ooops- sorry it is the 10.0. Looks like the exact same light amd fixture as your. The 100 gallon tank needs the heat emitter 24/7 or its not hot enough. Drops around 80 during the day without it and 50 at night without it. I'm only thinking about sectioning it off because it's 5ft long and the baby is 6.5 inches. Seems like 3 feet would be fine and still be able to get away from the uvb. But if the large tank won't stress him, then I'll leave it as it is.
Its up to you if you wan to section the tank off -- but 80's during the day is good - you will probably haft to run the CHE at nite if its dropping that low -- but if you can get the tank at 80 or so during he day your good - 70's at nite is good --
 

Carlyelaine

Hatchling Dragon
Messages
41
U need to use dechlorinated water!!! Buy reptisafe and it’s a few drops per cup for drinking and bathing 15min baths in lukewarm dechlorinated water twice a week!! Skin won’t dry if water is dechkorinated!! Also a heat emitter isbised at nite to keep the tank around 80 for a baby-5month old dragon after 5 months at nite it should never drop below 70. Place the heat emitter on the side of the tank that he sleeps on. What I’m reading is terrible he is going to get a respiratory infection. Cold side should be 75 and middle should be 80. U r doing something. Wrong. Long uvb in the back starting at he hot side and basking bulb on the right side or left whichever is the hot side and food and water bowl on the cold side and no lettuce!! Dandelions, mustard, collard greens endives, snap peas yellow squash a mixture of 2-3 if u dorm train him now he will never eat them as an adult . Dice it tiny since he’s a baby and protein 5 times a day only crickets and Dubia roaches!! NO silk worms or meal worms ever! It impacts them and destroys their digestive system. Reptisun 10.0 T5 for UVb it should cover 70 percent of the tank it needs to be light and bright for energy and to thrive and if your tank is 40-60 gallons a 100 Watt ZooMed basking bulb of tank is bigger than a 150 watt bulb.
I think you read the degrees wrong. You read what I said it would be without the extra heat lamps. Basking area is around 100 and cool side is 80. Gets around 70 at night. Can make it warmer at night if needed. Bsfl is okay too right? I have roaches, crickets, and bsfl for the baby. My syaple veggies are collard greens, carrots, squash, zucchini, green beans. Are brussell sprout leaves okay?
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
10,836
BFSL are a great staple feeder for babies -- do not dust them they are calcium enriched -- if your going to feed carrots to the insects do not feed carrots to the dragon too much Vit A - not sure about brussel sprout leaves check the nutrition website and see what it says about them if anything - I guess when in doubt its best to stay away from it --
 

Julee1971

Juvenile Dragon
3 Year Member
Messages
773
I think you read the degrees wrong. You read what I said it would be without the extra heat lamps. Basking area is around 100 and cool side is 80. Gets around 70 at night. Can make it warmer at night if needed. Bsfl is okay too right? I have roaches, crickets, and bsfl for the baby. My syaple veggies are collard greens, carrots, squash, zucchini, green beans. Are brussell sprout leaves okay?
NO carrots/No Brussels sprouts & try to add dandelions thet are the the best and mustard greens and snap peas. If he’s a baby get the temp to 105 in the Hot the rest is great 105 meaning on the bashing platform where he lays to bask after 4-5 months old they like it around 100-102 Get the ZooMed digital thermometer and lay the probe down a happy dragon will hang and bask and eat and b happy for majority of the day & when 4-5minths Oldet take him out to bask in hot sun for 20minutes or soo on a fluffy towel siting next to you or longer & they love tinstars at greenery but very afraid of birds. Here’s my Beardies HAppy ans basking and they can lay higher or lower and things to climb and rest there legs. I have 2happy Beardies
 

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Carlyelaine

Hatchling Dragon
Messages
41
NO carrots/No Brussels sprouts & try to add dandelions thet are the the best and mustard greens and snap peas. If he’s a baby get the temp to 105 in the Hot the rest is great 105 meaning on the bashing platform where he lays to bask after 4-5 months old they like it around 100-102 Get the ZooMed digital thermometer and lay the probe down a happy dragon will hang and bask and eat and b happy for majority of the day & when 4-5minths Oldet take him out to bask in hot sun for 20minutes or soo on a fluffy towel siting next to you or longer & they love tinstars at greenery but very afraid of birds. Here’s my Beardies HAppy ans basking and they can lay higher or lower and things to climb and rest there legs. I have 2happy Beardies
Is it a no to carrots just while he is a baby since they are so high in vitamin A? I've done quite a bit of research what they can eat (regarding adults though because this is my first baby, so ill need to do more.) But carrots are always on the "good" list as long as they are fed in moderation (like most things.) I did see that brussell sprouts are very high in goitrogen so I'll stay clear of that. Thanks for your input :)
 

Sadie

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Is it a no to carrots just while he is a baby since they are so high in vitamin A? I've done quite a bit of research what they can eat (regarding adults though because this is my first baby, so ill need to do more.) But carrots are always on the "good" list as long as they are fed in moderation (like most things.) I did see that brussell sprouts are very high in goitrogen so I'll stay clear of that. Thanks for your input :)
They're are gonna get Vit A thru the roaches / insects if you feed them carrots -- if you dont feed the carrots to the roaches/ insects then yes feed the dragon carrots --
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
10,836
They're are gonna get Vit A thru the roaches / insects if you feed them carrots -- if you dont feed the carrots to the roaches/ insects then yes feed the dragon carrots -- that goes for all dragons not just babies
 

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