Pink on tail after shedding

[ajlo55]

Our beardie's tail was shedding. My son apparently tried to give it a little help. Now it's raw and pink/red. I'm planning on washing it and putting plain Neosporin on. He doesn't have much of an appetite today and is more skittish than usual.

Is there anything else I should do for him?

 

[Sadie]

Our beardie's tail was shedding. My son apparently tried to give it a little help. Now it's raw and pink/red. I'm planning on washing it and putting plain Neosporin on. He doesn't have much of an appetite today and is more skittish than usual.

Is there anything else I should do for him?

Yes NO crickets in the tank after putting some raw unpasteurized honey on the tail ----- and NEVER EVER PEEL SHED --- this is why I tell people NOT to pull shed and let it come off by itself - the only time you can help it along is when it gets dry and crackly then you can spray/ mist in the tank and take baby soft toothbrush and gently brush ---- you really need to keep an eye on this tail now so it does NOT become infected - the honey will do that - put the honey on twice a day and do not feed crickets in the tank if you do feed one - two at a time ---- so you can keep count of how many is in the tank the crickets will go straight for the tail -- if the tail starts to turn black infection has started - it looks like he might lose the end of the tail but you do not want tail rot starting
Your dragon is possibly in pain now from the tail -- if hes black bearding at all then possible pain and in distress --- I am getting some more help on that tail

 

[Sadie]

I got a reply back on the tail and here is what she said about the tail - she is very experienced w/ dragons so please take heed to what I posted about the care of the dragon

Aw man, I zoomed in and the tail is degloved [ all scales + tissue pulled off ] and that area likely will die, almost definitely. Neosporin will burn it, they can use raw honey since it has antimicrobial properties but it might be best to amputate. The son severely damaged the tail by " helping " it to shed. Poor dragon, no wonder he is skittish and won't eat. I can't believe this is still a thing that people do because they think there's " stuck shed. " Now they have a very injured dragon.

If it comes down to having the tail amputated use this website to find a reptile vet if you live in a small area try and bigger city/ town w/ a different zip code --- see if one pops up -- I am hoping this does haft to happen -- I hate to say this but dragons are not a childs pet -- they are too complex for them to take care of and sometimes its even difficult for us adults -- please take over the care of the dragon w/ your sons help --- if you need anymore help w/ feeding husbandry or anything please ask ----------
Next thing is what are you using for a UVB? Please NO coils your dragon is going to need good basking temps taken w/ a digital probe thermometer and a long tube fixture for a UVB like 24" Zoo Med or a Sunblaster or a Acradia w/ a Retptisun 10.0 T 5 or Arcadia 12% bulb -- this is imperative for the dragon to have good health going forward -- NO colored bulbs NO heat mats or rocks -- the substrate can be changed out to some textured NON adhesive shelf liner from Walmart or your local home improvement store -- clean w/ vinegar/water 50/50 solution - insects cannot get underneath ----

 

[Sadie]

www.arav.org try this website if you need it --- please keep us posted on the tail

 

[ajlo55]

I got a reply back on the tail and here is what she said about the tail - she is very experienced w/ dragons so please take heed to what I posted about the care of the dragon

Aw man, I zoomed in and the tail is degloved [ all scales + tissue pulled off ] and that area likely will die, almost definitely. Neosporin will burn it, they can use raw honey since it has antimicrobial properties but it might be best to amputate. The son severely damaged the tail by " helping " it to shed. Poor dragon, no wonder he is skittish and won't eat. I can't believe this is still a thing that people do because they think there's " stuck shed. " Now they have a very injured dragon.

If it comes down to having the tail amputated use this website to find a reptile vet if you live in a small area try and bigger city/ town w/ a different zip code --- see if one pops up -- I am hoping this does haft to happen -- I hate to say this but dragons are not a childs pet -- they are too complex for them to take care of and sometimes its even difficult for us adults -- please take over the care of the dragon w/ your sons help --- if you need anymore help w/ feeding husbandry or anything please ask ----------
Next thing is what are you using for a UVB? Please NO coils your dragon is going to need good basking temps taken w/ a digital probe thermometer and a long tube fixture for a UVB like 24" Zoo Med or a Sunblaster or a Acradia w/ a Retptisun 10.0 T 5 or Arcadia 12% bulb -- this is imperative for the dragon to have good health going forward -- NO colored bulbs NO heat mats or rocks -- the substrate can be changed out to some textured NON adhesive shelf liner from Walmart or your local home improvement store -- clean w/ vinegar/water 50/50 solution - insects cannot get underneath ----

Thanks for the reply! He's got Reptisun T8 uvb and a basking bulb (no heat mat, heat rocks or colored bulbs).

He's more himself today. Not skittish.
Ate his veggies and just ate some wax worms.

Will do cleaning and raw honey as recommended.

Any sense of how soon the tail could heal (if it does)?

And I totally hear you on this not being a good child's pet and am definitely overseeing his care.

 

[ajlo55]

I got a reply back on the tail and here is what she said about the tail - she is very experienced w/ dragons so please take heed to what I posted about the care of the dragon

Aw man, I zoomed in and the tail is degloved [ all scales + tissue pulled off ] and that area likely will die, almost definitely. Neosporin will burn it, they can use raw honey since it has antimicrobial properties but it might be best to amputate. The son severely damaged the tail by " helping " it to shed. Poor dragon, no wonder he is skittish and won't eat. I can't believe this is still a thing that people do because they think there's " stuck shed. " Now they have a very injured dragon.

If it comes down to having the tail amputated use this website to find a reptile vet if you live in a small area try and bigger city/ town w/ a different zip code --- see if one pops up -- I am hoping this does haft to happen -- I hate to say this but dragons are not a childs pet -- they are too complex for them to take care of and sometimes its even difficult for us adults -- please take over the care of the dragon w/ your sons help --- if you need anymore help w/ feeding husbandry or anything please ask ----------
Next thing is what are you using for a UVB? Please NO coils your dragon is going to need good basking temps taken w/ a digital probe thermometer and a long tube fixture for a UVB like 24" Zoo Med or a Sunblaster or a Acradia w/ a Retptisun 10.0 T 5 or Arcadia 12% bulb -- this is imperative for the dragon to have good health going forward -- NO colored bulbs NO heat mats or rocks -- the substrate can be changed out to some textured NON adhesive shelf liner from Walmart or your local home improvement store -- clean w/ vinegar/water 50/50 solution - insects cannot get underneath ----

 

[Sadie]

Thanks for the reply! He's got Reptisun T8 uvb and a basking bulb (no heat mat, heat rocks or colored bulbs).

He's more himself today. Not skittish.
Ate his veggies and just ate some wax worms.

Will do cleaning and raw honey as recommended.

Any sense of how soon the tail could heal (if it does)?

And I totally hear you on this not being a good child's pet and am definitely overseeing his care.

Ok the T 8 is where in the tank? Top of screen or inside- it MUST be inside and not on top of the screen - T8's are not strong enough to go thru the screen --- or remove the screen and have it unobstructed and approx 6-8 inches directly above the basking decor piece - and NO cover over the bulb if its on please take it off - the T 8 needs to be replaced every 6 months -- please no more Neosporin either just do the honey for now --- I dont know how long it will heal keep an eye on the tail at the end --- if you see any black starting at the end or on the parts where it has been pulled off then I would look at getting him in to the vet - I posted a website for you --
Please make sure your feeding a good staple feeder like dubia roaches crickets BSFL or silk worms - they are all good staple feeders the most recommended are the dubias and BSFL for little ones - DO NOT dust the BSFL -- the dubias need to be dusted tho - 5 x per week ONCE per feeding lightly coated w/ calcium D 3 -- vitamins w / beta carotene 2 x per week ONCE per feeding lightly coated -- please only feed wax worms sparingly -- they are like candy and are very fatty and too many and too often can cause long term liver damage --- make sure hes getting fed fresh salads every day rinse the greens before serving and he will get his hydration from that -- you can feed the BSFL on top of his salads and you can feed 1-3 medium super worms every other day on his salads as well using the BSFL and supers as lures to the bowl -- http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html ignore the kale thing its a good staple feeder https://www.amazon.com/MACGOAL-Rept...uGQB&pd_rd_wg=tLkwE&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mr_hp_d
www.symtonbsf.com
www.dubiaroaches.com

 

[ajlo55]

Ok the T 8 is where in the tank? Top of screen or inside- it MUST be inside and not on top of the screen - T8's are not strong enough to go thru the screen --- or remove the screen and have it unobstructed and approx 6-8 inches directly above the basking decor piece - and NO cover over the bulb if its on please take it off - the T 8 needs to be replaced every 6 months -- please no more Neosporin either just do the honey for now --- I dont know how long it will heal keep an eye on the tail at the end --- if you see any black starting at the end or on the parts where it has been pulled off then I would look at getting him in to the vet - I posted a website for you --
Please make sure your feeding a good staple feeder like dubia roaches crickets BSFL or silk worms - they are all good staple feeders the most recommended are the dubias and BSFL for little ones - DO NOT dust the BSFL -- the dubias need to be dusted tho - 5 x per week ONCE per feeding lightly coated w/ calcium D 3 -- vitamins w / beta carotene 2 x per week ONCE per feeding lightly coated -- please only feed wax worms sparingly -- they are like candy and are very fatty and too many and too often can cause long term liver damage --- make sure hes getting fed fresh salads every day rinse the greens before serving and he will get his hydration from that -- you can feed the BSFL on top of his salads and you can feed 1-3 medium super worms every other day on his salads as well using the BSFL and supers as lures to the bowl -- http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html ignore the kale thing its a good staple feeder https://www.amazon.com/MACGOAL-Rept...uGQB&pd_rd_wg=tLkwE&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mr_hp_d
www.symtonbsf.com
www.dubiaroaches.com

Thanks!

Below is the basking area setup.

Yeah--we switched to mainly dubias.

He's only 10" so I'm assuming too small for supers, yes?

 

[Sadie]

Thanks!

Below is the basking area setup.

Yeah--we switched to mainly dubias.

He's only 10" so I'm assuming too small for supers, yes?

Ok please get a digital probe thermometer they are the most accurate 2 of them one for basking side and one for the cool side -- https://www.pangeareptile.com/store/zoo-med-digital-thermometer.html the stick ons are for ambient temps only -- the fixture looks like a Zilla ? Please take the cover off the fixture over the bulb and leave it off -- cant tell if its on or off --- please drop the fixture so its sitting directly over a piece of basking decor you can can the decor first and then drop the fixture if you need to you can get something like this from PetSmart they have great decor for dragons I use these in my two tanks https://www.petsmart.com/reptile/ha...riftwood-reptile-decor-54734.html?cgid=500116
Take your stick on and place on the back wall that will give you ambient temps in the tank
Please get a digital probe hygrometer place on the back center wall of the tank it will give humidity of the whole tank https://www.amazon.com/Terra-Digital-Thermometer-Celsius-Fahrenheit/dp/B00101KWVU
No he can eat supers - get him medium size --
You want to be able to offer a gradient heat for him and the decor piece I posted offers just that - but you need a piece of decor under that UVB ASAP--- he needs to be able to sit directly under it 6-8 inches this basking temps and UVB are EXTREMELY important cant stress this enough
Does he have a hide in the tank and what are you using for substrate ? It looks like carpet?