Jay633
Bearded Dragon Egg
- Messages
- 6
- Location
- Hueneme bay, ca
I heard one of these covers the UVB and UVA bulbs
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Opinions on mercury uv reptile bulb
- Thread starter Jay633
- Start date
- Messages
- 4,493
- Location
- North America
MVBs are designed for larger enclosures, have minimum safe distances that generally are very difficult to comply with, in the regular sized BD enclosures that most keepers use. At these minimum safe distances, in my experience with them, more times than not, the high temps that BDs need at the basking spot can not be provided without another heat source added anyway. For instance a 100 watt MVB's absolute minimum safe distance is 12" from the nearest access your BD will have when standing & is not likely to provide enough heat at that distance. A 160W MVB's minimum safe distance is listed at 15", while 18"-20+" is recommended.
I do not recommend them at all for use with BDs.
I do not recommend them at all for use with BDs.
Jay633
Bearded Dragon Egg
- Messages
- 6
- Location
- Hueneme bay, ca
So what do you recommend I buy for all those needs. Of the bd?
- Messages
- 1,122
- Location
- Mungi's World- Dayton,Ohio
As far as specifically what wattage it will depend on the size enclosure you have.. You will need a basking light of sufficent wattage to get a basking spot of 110 degrees for a baby are juvenile dragon and between 100-105 degrees for an adult dragon. Personally I use standard household Halogen Floodlights. They produce a clear bright white light that bearded dragons are attracted to and produce enough heat to get the temps you need and are much cheaper than the Reptile specific bulbs at petshops. Another option is to use standard clear brighte white incandescent bulbs. And yet another would be using the basking bulbs available at the petshops.
All of these are safe and viable options but the wattage you will need again depends on your enclosure size and type.
Along with the basking spot you will need a daytime heat gradient in your enclosure that will give you the proper basking spot temp and a cool side temp of 80-85 degrees.
These temps should be measured with digital thermometers with remote probes...you willneed 2 of them. One probe attached directly toyour basking spot and the other attached directly to the coolest spot in your enclosure. These will get you accurate temp readings.
In addition to the basking bulb you will need a UV bulb such as ReptiSun or ReptiGlo. These bulbs need to be 10.0 or 10% UV bulbs that are designed for Desert reptiles. The best option is to go with the tube type bulbs instead of the coil type. You can use household under cabinet T8 fixtures for these which can be found at Home Depot and Lowes. Less expensive that way.
The tube type UV bulbs emit most of the UV from the center of the bulb and very little from the ends so you will need to position your basking light and UV next to each other so that both shine down on the basking spot and so that the center of the UV bulb is what is shining down on it too.
Hope this helps. If you would post pics and more details about your enclosure it may help us to help you better.
All of these are safe and viable options but the wattage you will need again depends on your enclosure size and type.
Along with the basking spot you will need a daytime heat gradient in your enclosure that will give you the proper basking spot temp and a cool side temp of 80-85 degrees.
These temps should be measured with digital thermometers with remote probes...you willneed 2 of them. One probe attached directly toyour basking spot and the other attached directly to the coolest spot in your enclosure. These will get you accurate temp readings.
In addition to the basking bulb you will need a UV bulb such as ReptiSun or ReptiGlo. These bulbs need to be 10.0 or 10% UV bulbs that are designed for Desert reptiles. The best option is to go with the tube type bulbs instead of the coil type. You can use household under cabinet T8 fixtures for these which can be found at Home Depot and Lowes. Less expensive that way.
The tube type UV bulbs emit most of the UV from the center of the bulb and very little from the ends so you will need to position your basking light and UV next to each other so that both shine down on the basking spot and so that the center of the UV bulb is what is shining down on it too.
Hope this helps. If you would post pics and more details about your enclosure it may help us to help you better.
- Messages
- 1,122
- Location
- Mungi's World- Dayton,Ohio
The reason you need both the UV and Basking light over the basking spot is because your dragon will spend most of their time there so it makes sure they get the UV they need.
At nightime you will to allow your dragon to cool down so it gets a good night's rest..You dont have to use any heat unless your house temps drop below 65 degrees. If they do the the best option is to use a CHE ceramic heat emitter. They produce heat but no light.
At nightime you will to allow your dragon to cool down so it gets a good night's rest..You dont have to use any heat unless your house temps drop below 65 degrees. If they do the the best option is to use a CHE ceramic heat emitter. They produce heat but no light.
Jay633
Bearded Dragon Egg
- Messages
- 6
- Location
- Hueneme bay, ca
Sorry for the late response. My enclosure is a 20 gal tank and when he out grows it it will become 55 gal.. This following picture is his enclosure however I did remove some things as they did say it was too cluttered
- Messages
- 4,493
- Location
- North America
You will find that a 40 Gal Breeder tank has more floor space than a 55 Gal & is the better choice. Floor area is more important than height.
- Messages
- 433
you should move the water bowl to one side and take the hide out your bd will have no use for it and take 1 of those basking sticks out bds don't need that many sticks in the cage
- Messages
- 1,122
- Location
- Mungi's World- Dayton,Ohio
Actually water dishes serve no purpose in a bearded dragon's enclosure as most bearded dragons do not recognize standing water as something they can drink and therefor will not. In the dry climates they come from water pools and puddles are few and far between. They get hydration from the vegetables and feeder insects they eat and from the soaks and misting you provide for them.
Water dishes also raise the humidity level in the enclose which being a dry climate creature bearded dragons do not need and high humidity can lead to health issues in them as well as encourage the growth of molds and bacteria in your enclosure. This is not what you want for your dragon.
Jay633
Bearded Dragon Egg
- Messages
- 6
- Location
- Hueneme bay, ca
Okay good, I'm still making changes before my dragon gets here (Wednesday) can't wait. So if there is any more tips throw them my way
I believe you'll find it's still too cluttered for a baby dragon. Those branches an older dragon would love! No need to get rid of them, but a baby would find them overwhelming when trying to hunt. I would remove them until the baby is at least a juvenile. My own personal opinion, of course, you can see what works out best for you.
