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gbdc13

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
16
Hi everyone, I am a new owner of a beardie and I could not be happier with my choice! I am also new in this forum, and I thought asking some advice would be a good way to introduce myself. The one in the pictures is Larry, a 3-4months old beardie (not sure about the sex, I haven’t tried too hard to guess since I figured out it is a bit early anyway). He recently (not sure how long ago, but less than a month for sure), started to dig in his sleeping position (pictures) earlier than the time the lights go off (in the evening time, around 1-2h before the timer). I always kept the same timing throughout (7am-9:45pm) and he never did that before the lights were going off. Apart from that, he has been really active during the day, eating and defecating normally. I would like to ask whether you think is just because he is tired or may be sign of any kind of problem. Following there are some details of the setup. His terrarium is 40 gallons (36x18x18), with an Arcadia ProT5 12% uvb HO-T5 24w 22" and a 100w basking lamp.
The temperature of the surface of the rock closer to the light is 110°F and the humidity of the hot side of the cage is around 30%. I put the wooden piece on top of the screen to avoid overheating the basking spot (it was getting 115-120°F before).
Any advice is welcome.
 

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Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
10,799
Hi everyone, I am a new owner of a beardie and I could not be happier with my choice! I am also new in this forum, and I thought asking some advice would be a good way to introduce myself. The one in the pictures is Larry, a 3-4months old beardie (not sure about the sex, I haven’t tried too hard to guess since I figured out it is a bit early anyway). He recently (not sure how long ago, but less than a month for sure), started to dig in his sleeping position (pictures) earlier than the time the lights go off (in the evening time, around 1-2h before the timer). I always kept the same timing throughout (7am-9:45pm) and he never did that before the lights were going off. Apart from that, he has been really active during the day, eating and defecating normally. I would like to ask whether you think is just because he is tired or may be sign of any kind of problem. Following there are some details of the setup. His terrarium is 40 gallons (36x18x18), with an Arcadia ProT5 12% uvb HO-T5 24w 22" and a 100w basking lamp.
The temperature of the surface of the rock closer to the light is 110°F and the humidity of the hot side of the cage is around 30%. I put the wooden piece on top of the screen to avoid overheating the basking spot (it was getting 115-120°F before).
Any advice is welcome.
First we will address the question-- it is normal for him to be digging its a sign of them getting comfy to sleep -- this could also be associated w/ females getting ready to lay eggs but your dragon is too young for that -- also other behaviors go along w/ the digging for egg laying-- so w/ him digging you can place some cut up strips of clothing w/ your scent on it or small blanket cut up and he will dig into that --
Nice set up and welcome--- I see you have a lot of correct husbandry which is great --- so your surface basking temps have dropped now? that is good they should be 105-110 for now that is going to change when Larry gets to be around 5-6 months old -- he will not want those hot of temps 95-100 will be more comfortable for him--the wood over the top of the screen is going to retain heat making it hotter unless your talking about the wood platforms the heat bulb is sitting on-- cool side of your tank should be in the 80's during the day --- when he gets older like 8-9 months we should be able to sex him by then -- for the UVB it should be unobstructed for a fine screen mesh -- the screen is blocking 30% of those rays -- you want distance 12-15 inches directly above the basking decor piece --- this is crucial for his health -- you want him getting full effects of his UVB-- you will eventually want to get Larry a bigger tank as hes going to outgrow that 40 gallon-- full size dragons need a 75-120 gallon tank -- just so your are aware --
 

gbdc13

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
16
First we will address the question-- it is normal for him to be digging its a sign of them getting comfy to sleep -- this could also be associated w/ females getting ready to lay eggs but your dragon is too young for that -- also other behaviors go along w/ the digging for egg laying-- so w/ him digging you can place some cut up strips of clothing w/ your scent on it or small blanket cut up and he will dig into that --
Nice set up and welcome--- I see you have a lot of correct husbandry which is great --- so your surface basking temps have dropped now? that is good they should be 105-110 for now that is going to change when Larry gets to be around 5-6 months old -- he will not want those hot of temps 95-100 will be more comfortable for him--the wood over the top of the screen is going to retain heat making it hotter unless your talking about the wood platforms the heat bulb is sitting on-- cool side of your tank should be in the 80's during the day --- when he gets older like 8-9 months we should be able to sex him by then -- for the UVB it should be unobstructed for a fine screen mesh -- the screen is blocking 30% of those rays -- you want distance 12-15 inches directly above the basking decor piece --- this is crucial for his health -- you want him getting full effects of his UVB-- you will eventually want to get Larry a bigger tank as hes going to outgrow that 40 gallon-- full size dragons need a 75-120 gallon tank -- just so your are aware --
Thank you! I am looking forward to keeping you updated on Larry! I will buy a larger enclosure towards the ned of the year.
The temperature on the cool side of the cage is correct (around 85F), but the temperatures on the basking surface are still around 110F. The uvb bulb is a bit shifted compared to the basking light/spot, but Larry usually stays on the higher part of the trunk in the middle of the cage and not on the basking rock (he goes there briefly after eating or after having a bath). I know about the 30% reduction of uvb by the screen, that is the reason why I chose a T5. Do you think is ok in that position? Consider the screen is a fine mesh. And yes, I was referring to the wooden bricks I have put between the screen and the light hood. Should I just buy a lower power bulb? Sorry for the many questions but I am knew in this and I want only the best for Larry!
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
10,799
Thank you! I am looking forward to keeping you updated on Larry! I will buy a larger enclosure towards the ned of the year.
The temperature on the cool side of the cage is correct (around 85F), but the temperatures on the basking surface are still around 110F. The uvb bulb is a bit shifted compared to the basking light/spot, but Larry usually stays on the higher part of the trunk in the middle of the cage and not on the basking rock (he goes there briefly after eating or after having a bath). I know about the 30% reduction of uvb by the screen, that is the reason why I chose a T5. Do you think is ok in that position? Consider the screen is a fine mesh. And yes, I was referring to the wooden bricks I have put between the screen and the light hood. Should I just buy a lower power bulb? Sorry for the many questions but I am knew in this and I want only the best for Larry!
If the bricks are not reducing the heat try a lower wattage bulb also that platform maybe causing too much heat as well it's absorbing it so that is a thought too - some materials will do that- the uvb should be unobstructed-- even T 5's cannot get thru fine screen- you can leave it in center of tank but please open the mesh -
 

gbdc13

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
16
Hi, just an update: now Larry has a mild diarrhea and, just in the morning, goes around the cage and occasionally does glass surfing (see attached video). I assume is because he wants out, because he still doing fine and when I take him out he calms down. As for the diarrhea, it is more about a liquid urate, rather than a liquid poop itself. He had the same poop 3 weeks ago for about 4-5days and then it stopped. Now it has been 2-3 days he has it again. As for everything else, he seems to be doing fine, eating, being alert and active as usual. It was shedding last week and the beginning of this week, I don't know if that can be the reason. The temperatures in the tank are now ok (103-105F in the basking side, 83F on the cool side) and the humidity is 30-34% in the hot side.
Do you have any idea why?


 

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Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
10,799
Hi, just an update: now Larry has a mild diarrhea and, just in the morning, goes around the cage and occasionally does glass surfing (see attached video). I assume is because he wants out, because he still doing fine and when I take him out he calms down. As for the diarrhea, it is more about a liquid urate, rather than a liquid poop itself. He had the same poop 3 weeks ago for about 4-5days and then it stopped. Now it has been 2-3 days he has it again. As for everything else, he seems to be doing fine, eating, being alert and active as usual. It was shedding last week and the beginning of this week, I don't know if that can be the reason. The temperatures in the tank are now ok (103-105F in the basking side, 83F on the cool side) and the humidity is 30-34% in the hot side.
Do you have any idea why?


Too much foods w/ a lot of water will make Larry have diahrrea things like squash watermelon cucumber gr pepper things that have a lot of water - lettuce iceberg--
Larry out grown his tank --- I would recommend upgrading to a 75-120 gallon tank as soon as you can --
What is your UVB a T 5 or a T 8 ?
 

gbdc13

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
16
The bulb is a T5. I am soon switching to a 120-gallon tank, I was planning to do it at the end of May. He does not eat any fruit and occasionally only some turnip greens. He mostly eats Dubia roaches and, occasionally, superworms (3-4 per week).
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
10,799
The bulb is a T5. I am soon switching to a 120-gallon tank, I was planning to do it at the end of May. He does not eat any fruit and occasionally only some turnip greens. He mostly eats Dubia roaches and, occasionally, superworms (3-4 per week).
Ok we need him to start eating salads -- http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html
the kale is a good staple feeder --
As far as the diarrhea is he getting it shortly after eating the turnip greens?
Please order some BSFL large do not dust them www.symtonbsf.com - you will need a bowl like this https://www.amazon.com/MACGOAL-Rept...uGQB&pd_rd_wg=tLkwE&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mr_hp_d
or similar to -- when you get these use them as a lure to the bowl -- add them to the top of the salads these are another good staple feeder great for babies -- use as many as you want and feed the dubias after feeding the salad w/ the BSFL
Please get a piece of decor directly under the UVB 12-15 inches -- I can see its in the tank but not sure if he can get directly under it - what brand of bulb are you using? Reptisun 10.0 T 5? This will effect his stool as well --
I dont think the super worms would be causing the diarrhea either - your not really feeding enough - and you can feed more often if you like - like 1-2 every other day
 

gbdc13

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
16
Ok, thanks for the suggestions. Th bulb is an Arcadia ProT5 12% uvb HO-T5 24w 22" and it is definitely emitting UVB because I tested it (and it is less than 3months old). I did not put a decor directly under the uvb because it would be closer than the recommended distance from it.
I have the exact same bowl and I am sure to keep it always with fresh greens in the tank, but he does not eat much of those. I ordered the BSFL! I started occasionally (2-3 per week) to give him hornworms (after the first episode of diarrhea, so they are definitely not the ones causing it). One thing I am actually thinking about: I did stop dusting the roaches with calcium since I gut load them with the calcium quencher and the high calcium diet, do you think that may have an influence?
 

gbdc13

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
16
And sorry, I forgot to reply to your question. The diarrhea occurs in the morning, when I feed him roaches. I usually feed him twice a day, but if he doesn't get outside the tank in the afternoon he does not poop often a second time.
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
10,799
Ok, thanks for the suggestions. Th bulb is an Arcadia ProT5 12% uvb HO-T5 24w 22" and it is definitely emitting UVB because I tested it (and it is less than 3months old). I did not put a decor directly under the uvb because it would be closer than the recommended distance from it.
I have the exact same bowl and I am sure to keep it always with fresh greens in the tank, but he does not eat much of those. I ordered the BSFL! I started occasionally (2-3 per week) to give him hornworms (after the first episode of diarrhea, so they are definitely not the ones causing it). One thing I am actually thinking about: I did stop dusting the roaches with calcium since I gut load them with the calcium quencher and the high calcium diet, do you think that may have an influence?
How long have you been doing that- quencher might be the key word here- hornworms are a hydrating worm- what is the distance from the uvb to decor?
 

gbdc13

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
16
How long have you been doing that- quencher might be the key word here- hornworms are a hydrating worm- what is the distance from the uvb to decor?
I have been feeding the roaches with the quencher since the beginning, and he didn't have diarrhea, so I am not sure that is the problem.
The trunk is about 9-10" from the uvb.
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
10,799
I have been feeding the roaches with the quencher since the beginning, and he didn't have diarrhea, so I am not sure that is the problem.
The trunk is about 9-10" from the uvb.
Ok good- he may have parasites but usually the poop is runny all the time and stink to high heaven? I hate to have you switch to a different insect but you can try it to see if the diarrhea clears up sometimes it's just the dragon but you could get him some silk worms and only feed them get enough to feed for like a week and feed like 3 / every other day - they are a staple in the mean time feed salads every day - this is going to be trial and error w/ this- you can also get a fecal fr him and take it in for testing then that would rule that in or out-- No Enemas!
 

gbdc13

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
16
Ok good- he may have parasites but usually the poop is runny all the time and stink to high heaven? I hate to have you switch to a different insect but you can try it to see if the diarrhea clears up sometimes it's just the dragon but you could get him some silk worms and only feed them get enough to feed for like a week and feed like 3 / every other day - they are a staple in the mean time feed salads every day - this is going to be trial and error w/ this- you can also get a fecal fr him and take it in for testing then that would rule that in or out-- No Enemas!
Thanks, I will definitely go to the vet if it continues. The stool has not been runny for 2-3weeks since he had the first episodes, and it doesn't smell much different from before. Also, it is mainly the first stool of the day that is runnier, in the afternoon isn't that bad. I will try to changing his diet and will update you in 3-4 days. Thanks a lot for your help!

Ps: I also noticed that when he has diarrhea he eats more greens, right after every epi
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
10,799
Thanks, I will definitely go to the vet if it continues. The stool has not been runny for 2-3weeks since he had the first episodes, and it doesn't smell much different from before. Also, it is mainly the first stool of the day that is runnier, in the afternoon isn't that bad. I will try to changing his diet and will update you in 3-4 days. Thanks a lot for your help!

Ps: I also noticed that when he has diarrhea he eats more greens, right after every epi
That's because diarrhea dehydrates them-- make sure your rinsing those greens before serving- and you might want to offer water by dropping on his nose- if a vet visit comes up remember No Enemas! They often end in disaster
 

gbdc13

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
16
I am starting to think it may be the roaches when they eat the cricket quencher. Maybe they don't digest it the same way crickets do, and this causes diarrhea to Larry. I'm saying that because this morning the stool wasn't runny, but the second time he pooped runny, after eating roaches with the quencher overnight in the box. Yesterday I hadn't fed him with roaches with the quencher but just the roaches I had just received from thr vendor. I'm still waiting for BSFL btw, to see whether it's roaches in general. Another thing my girlfriend made me notice is that the stool has a strong smell of urea.
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
10,799
I am starting to think it may be the roaches when they eat the cricket quencher. Maybe they don't digest it the same way crickets do, and this causes diarrhea to Larry. I'm saying that because this morning the stool wasn't runny, but the second time he pooped runny, after eating roaches with the quencher overnight in the box. Yesterday I hadn't fed him with roaches with the quencher but just the roaches I had just received from thr vendor. I'm still waiting for BSFL btw, to see whether it's roaches in general. Another thing my girlfriend made me notice is that the stool has a strong smell of urea.
I would get some dubia dew for your roaches - feed only your bsfl for a week then see if the poop changes- it's going to be trial and error -
 

gbdc13

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
16
Update: Larry has now a new 120 gallon tank and eats much more greens than before. I reduced the amount of roaches (he does not really like the BSFL). Diarrhea is not always constant, sometimes is normal. Mostly is the urate that is liquid, and not the rest of it. He still getting used to the new tank, but I will keep feeding him like that and I will see if he improves.



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