New beardie momma

[Mamabear1019]

Heyyy guys
I'm a brand new beardie momma and super excited. .. I do have a few questions tho. The lady at the reptile store hooked us up with everything we need to make Clementine as happy as possible so I'm confident with her set up. The habitat temp and humidity have been right where they are supposed to be since set up. (Dec 2nd) she explained to me that my beardie ears about 45 crickets a day, split up into 3 feedings..... This far I think I've seen her eat 2. Lol how long should it take for her apatite to regain after relocation? I have been not taking the crickets out since I want her to eat and they just kind of roam around her home all day. I also have fresh greens and peppers I have been putting in daily but she has no interest. She does have stress marks sometimes, and sometimes not. Also how long should I wait to soak her, because I dont want her to get dehydrated and I also want her to get used to doing that so we can interact with one another..... Thanks for any advise

 

[Sadie]

Heyyy guys
I'm a brand new beardie momma and super excited. .. I do have a few questions tho. The lady at the reptile store hooked us up with everything we need to make Clementine as happy as possible so I'm confident with her set up. The habitat temp and humidity have been right where they are supposed to be since set up. (Dec 2nd) she explained to me that my beardie ears about 45 crickets a day, split up into 3 feedings..... This far I think I've seen her eat 2. Lol how long should it take for her apatite to regain after relocation? I have been not taking the crickets out since I want her to eat and they just kind of roam around her home all day. I also have fresh greens and peppers I have been putting in daily but she has no interest. She does have stress marks sometimes, and sometimes not. Also how long should I wait to soak her, because I dont want her to get dehydrated and I also want her to get used to doing that so we can interact with one another..... Thanks for any advise

Welcome to beardie world and lets get started --- ok so the lighting in the tank is the most important things in the tank --- I am going to tell you what you need to get the dragon to keep eating and to acclimate to the tank and surroundings --- this is extremely important for the overall health and behavior of the dragon
this is what you need and if you dont please replace as soon as possible
basking temps 105-110 these are surface temps taken w/ a digital probe thermometer you need 2 of them one for each side of the tank cool side 80's basking side / spot 90's ambient a stick on is fine for that but probe for the surface basking temps
NO coils for a UVB they are inadequate and will cause all kinds of health problems you need a long tube fixture like one of these a 24" fixture for a 40 + gallon tank Zoo Med comes w/ a 5.0 bulb hang on to it for a back up distance and placement is different from the bulb you need 22" Reptisun 10.0 T 5 check pangearepetiles for the fixture
or a Arcadia Pro T 5 w/ a 12% bulb pangeareptiles has them or this fixture
Sunblaster Nano Tech comes w/ bulb check hydrobuilder website you want the 24 or 2ft fixture
basking bulb a CLEAR bright white basking bulb that keeps temps 105-110 or so this will change as the dragon gets older----- example Exo Terra Intense basking bulb NO INFRARED -- Repti basking spot bulbs are okay I like the Exo Terra better but a good clear bulb is good
please NO day bulbs they have a coating on them that is bad for the eyes NO colored bulbs No heat mats or rocks NO sand for substrate --
you neeed a digital hygrometer https://dubiaroaches.com/products/exo-terra-digital-hygrometer?variant=21432314265685
place probe on the back center wall of the tank it will read the whole tank optimal humidity 40-50% nothing below 20 or above 70% -
here is a website for nutrition http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html ignore the kale thing its a good staple feeder
Your dragon is going to go thru relocation stress and his / her eating will be off - but you want the dragon to keep eating even a little til he acclimates to the tank and surroundings if the dragon quits eating all together there is a problem that is where everything I just posted needs to be up to par --- if you have issues getting anything or have questions w/ the things I have posted please ask ---- pangea is a great website and place to get this stuff they are fast and quick and were good on shipping cost havent checked them lately

 

[Mamabear1019]

Welcome to beardie world and lets get started --- ok so the lighting in the tank is the most important things in the tank --- I am going to tell you what you need to get the dragon to keep eating and to acclimate to the tank and surroundings --- this is extremely important for the overall health and behavior of the dragon
this is what you need and if you dont please replace as soon as possible
basking temps 105-110 these are surface temps taken w/ a digital probe thermometer you need 2 of them one for each side of the tank cool side 80's basking side / spot 90's ambient a stick on is fine for that but probe for the surface basking temps
NO coils for a UVB they are inadequate and will cause all kinds of health problems you need a long tube fixture like one of these a 24" fixture for a 40 + gallon tank Zoo Med comes w/ a 5.0 bulb hang on to it for a back up distance and placement is different from the bulb you need 22" Reptisun 10.0 T 5 check pangearepetiles for the fixture
or a Arcadia Pro T 5 w/ a 12% bulb pangeareptiles has them or this fixture
Sunblaster Nano Tech comes w/ bulb check hydrobuilder website you want the 24 or 2ft fixture
basking bulb a CLEAR bright white basking bulb that keeps temps 105-110 or so this will change as the dragon gets older----- example Exo Terra Intense basking bulb NO INFRARED -- Repti basking spot bulbs are okay I like the Exo Terra better but a good clear bulb is good
please NO day bulbs they have a coating on them that is bad for the eyes NO colored bulbs No heat mats or rocks NO sand for substrate --
you neeed a digital hygrometer https://dubiaroaches.com/products/exo-terra-digital-hygrometer?variant=21432314265685
place probe on the back center wall of the tank it will read the whole tank optimal humidity 40-50% nothing below 20 or above 70% -
here is a website for nutrition http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html ignore the kale thing its a good staple feeder
Your dragon is going to go thru relocation stress and his / her eating will be off - but you want the dragon to keep eating even a little til he acclimates to the tank and surroundings if the dragon quits eating all together there is a problem that is where everything I just posted needs to be up to par --- if you have issues getting anything or have questions w/ the things I have posted please ask ---- pangea is a great website and place to get this stuff they are fast and quick and were good on shipping cost havent checked them lately

 

[Mamabear1019]

Yes I do have all of those things, no heat rock temp is right, I have the right lights I guess I'm just concerned about her food consumption.. because it's much less than what the reptile shop said ..

 

[Sadie]

Yes I do have all of those things, no heat rock temp is right, I have the right lights I guess I'm just concerned about her food consumption.. because it's much less than what the reptile shop said ..

Ok so if your lighting and temps are correct its going to be relocation stress --- as long as the dragon keeps eating your good - please do not listen to the pet store people -- where is the UVB what are you using brand and bulb these bulbs have certain distances and placement for them to be doing what they need to do --- if its off the dragon will not eat at all -- we want to him to keep eating and have his appetite increase as he acclimates to his tank of which he will do eventually ---