Looking for Advice on Preventing Parasites

[realneomc]

My beardie is about a year old, and suddenly he has quite significantly slowed down his eating and basking. My local shop told me to give him pumpkin and dust his food once a month with NatureZone Worm Guard. Or at least, I presume they meant Worm Guard. The bottle they showed me was labeled "Rot Guard." They gave me a sample to give to him, I'm *hoping* they just maybe showed me the wrong bottle and it was actually Worm Guard?

Any other recommendations for parasite prevention? I should note my dragon never denies insects...

 

[realneomc]

I gave him a small amount of what they gave me, should I toss the rest and order an actual parasite prevention vitamin instead? Or should I get more forceful with the pumpkin?

 

[Sadie]

My beardie is about a year old, and suddenly he has quite significantly slowed down his eating and basking. My local shop told me to give him pumpkin and dust his food once a month with NatureZone Worm Guard. Or at least, I presume they meant Worm Guard. The bottle they showed me was labeled "Rot Guard." They gave me a sample to give to him, I'm *hoping* they just maybe showed me the wrong bottle and it was actually Worm Guard?

Any other recommendations for parasite prevention? I should note my dragon never denies insects...

I would not give him that you don't know if he has parasites for sure-- please take a fecal into the vet call them ask if you can bring a fecal in for testing -- NO enemas if you take him in the often end in disaster - to prevent them from coming back is to have good surface basking temps--and a good uvb- No coils please-- it will help him keep them at bay- they do have some parasites but when they get out of control they need to be treated

 

[realneomc]

I would not give him that you don't know if he has parasites for sure-- please take a fecal into the vet call them ask if you can bring a fecal in for testing -- NO enemas if you take him in the often end in disaster - to prevent them from coming back is to have good surface basking temps--and a good uvb- No coils please-- it will help him keep them at bay- they do have some parasites but when they get out of control they need to be treated

I don't know any vets by me, the two I looked into were frauds. One claimed to be an exotic vet, the other a beardie vet. Both bought their degrees online. I suppose I can do more research and see if there are any good vets south of me.

(One of the vets gave my first beardie such a strong dose of wormkiller that it seemed to destroy his stomach or intestines. He faded away over the next 10 months and left me one year ago. I'd prefer to use vitamins and natural solutions instead.)

I was told by the pet shop by me that I should give their food an occasional vitamin dust from the NatureZone Worm Guard, once every month or two. Otherwise, feed them pumpkin at least once a week.

 

[Sadie]

I don't know any vets by me, the two I looked into were frauds. One claimed to be an exotic vet, the other a beardie vet. Both bought their degrees online. I suppose I can do more research and see if there are any good vets south of me.

(One of the vets gave my first beardie such a strong dose of wormkiller that it seemed to destroy his stomach or intestines. He faded away over the next 10 months and left me one year ago. I'd prefer to use vitamins and natural solutions instead.)

I was told by the pet shop by me that I should give their food an occasional vitamin dust from the NatureZone Worm Guard, once every month or two. Otherwise, feed them pumpkin at least once a week.

I have not heard of that - here is a website to find a reptile vet
www.arav.org if your in a small town type in a bigger cities zip code closest to you
Please try this website let me know otherwise I know a vet tech that is pretty good that can possibly help here - but please hold off on giving that stuff for now - the vet tech is good at reading blood work and x rays

 

[realneomc]

I have not heard of that - here is a website to find a reptile vet
www.arav.org if your in a small town type in a bigger cities zip code closest to you
Please try this website let me know otherwise I know a vet tech that is pretty good that can possibly help here - but please hold off on giving that stuff for now - the vet tech is good at reading blood work and x rays

I'll do some research, thanks.

If I may ask, why is the immediate reaction for any unusual behavior to "go to an exotic vet?" Is it that unusual that my lizard slows down for a week, but still mows through crickets? I've not had a lizard yet who actually seeks out greens and other staple foods...

 

[Sadie]

I'll do some research, thanks.

If I may ask, why is the immediate reaction for any unusual behavior to "go to an exotic vet?" Is it that unusual that my lizard slows down for a week, but still mows through crickets? I've not had a lizard yet who actually seeks out greens and other staple foods...

Crickets are a main reason for parasites-- they are a dirty feeder I recommend getting him over on dubia roaches- I would get a fecal done thru a reliable source to find out if he in deed has parasites you don't want to medicate on a whim and I would not trust a pet shop owner either- there are meds out there specifically for parasites and how to medicate- meds like pancur and albon are typically given - please use the website if you find one please call them and ask to drop a fecal off for testing- if you take him in do not have them do a enema they often end in disaster -

 

[realneomc]

Crickets are a main reason for parasites-- they are a dirty feeder I recommend getting him over on dubia roaches- I would get a fecal done thru a reliable source to find out if he in deed has parasites you don't want to medicate on a whim and I would not trust a pet shop owner either- there are meds out there specifically for parasites and how to medicate- meds like pancur and albon are typically given - please use the website if you find one please call them and ask to drop a fecal off for testing- if you take him in do not have them do a enema they often end in disaster -

Pancur is what ruined my first beardie's gut and sent him spiraling down.

 

[Sadie]

Pancur is what ruined my first beardie's gut and sent him spiraling down.

Wow yes some are harsh - I thought albon was the harshest - did you give the dragon probiotics to help w/ the gut

 

[Sadie]

What makes you think he has parasites- what does the poop look like ? Runny ? Smell so bad it makes you leave the room? Appetite can be effected - lethargic - but incorrect uvb and surface basking temps can cause same behavior

 

[realneomc]

Wow yes some are harsh - I thought albon was the harshest - did you give the dragon probiotics to help w/ the gut

No, I both knew and didn't know what I was doing. His lighting was good, his diet was good, but I wasn't patient enough with him. I did a lot of hand (and force) feeding to get staple foods down his throat, but in the end he died in his sleep. Ironically, that doctor called me not too long beforehand looking to reschedule more fecals. I decided to hold my tongue and just drop them a 1* review warning people of her fraud/malpractice :/

My second dragon, Phoenix, is a different kind of lizard. Usually he annihilates anything he is given, banana is his current sweet (I do not let him have it often). Of course he did do a mild brumation for about a week before realizing the climate was not cold. It is possible he is maybe feeling a little under the weather or it could be too much crickets.

 

[realneomc]

What makes you think he has parasites- what does the poop look like ? Runny ? Smell so bad it makes you leave the room? Appetite can be effected - lethargic - but incorrect uvb and surface basking temps can cause same behavior

Poop is completely normal. I patiently fed him about a teaspoon of pumpkin yest and he let rip an impressive dump today. Not runny at all, nothing unusual whatsoever. Maybe I should try swapping in Phoenix Worms or some other similar alternative, I've been told roaches are not allowed

Pet shop mentioned I should give him some extra pumpkin and perhaps some additional fibery foods (I've got prickly pear now) just in case. He is acting a little strange, he has spent the last few days mostly on the cool side of his tank.

I do need to swap out the UV bulb, it is 6 months now. I've got two bulbs, he has an old heat lamp I used for a leopard gecko half a decade ago (heat only) and a ZooMed UVB bulb.

 

[Sadie]

Poop is completely normal. I patiently fed him about a teaspoon of pumpkin yest and he let rip an impressive dump today. Not runny at all, nothing unusual whatsoever. Maybe I should try swapping in Phoenix Worms or some other similar alternative, I've been told roaches are not allowed

Roaches are not allowed where you live as in house or state? If the poop is normal formed not real smelly then something else is going on- what type of uvb ? Coil or a long tube fixture--? How old is it? Surface basking temps-- what are they how are you taking them? These are normal questions when dragons stop eating etc- are you using any kind of colored bulbs? Are you using a solid bright white basking bulb?

 

[realneomc]

Roaches are not allowed where you live as in house or state? If the poop is normal formed not real smelly then something else is going on- what type of uvb ? Coil or a long tube fixture--? How old is it? Surface basking temps-- what are they how are you taking them? These are normal questions when dragons stop eating etc- are you using any kind of colored bulbs? Are you using a solid bright white basking bulb?

Parents rules. I try to please.

Unsure, this is the UVB bulb he has. I'll swap in the new one tomorrow when I wake up, I swap them every 6 months. His hot rock spot floats between 100 and 107 farenheit, I have a thermal heat gun.

 

[realneomc]

Parents rules. I try to please.

Unsure, this is the UVB bulb he has. I'll swap in the new one tomorrow when I wake up, I swap them every 6 months. His hot rock spot floats between 100 and 107 farenheit, I have a thermal heat gun.

I should also add he has been going to sleep earlier the last three days. He goes into his hide (a shoebox with some almond sand stuff) and digs himself into it, then passes out.

 

[Sadie]

I should also add he has been going to sleep earlier the last three days. He goes into his hide (a shoebox with some almond sand stuff) and digs himself into it, then passes out.

The UVB is a good one --- where in the tank is it? If the screen on the tank is a fine mesh like a screen door it needs to be inside 12-15 inches directly above the basking decor- if its a wide hole type top of screen is fine distance 8-10 inches directly above the basking decor - the almond sand I have never heard of some loose substrates are toxic to dragons like crushed walnut shell - or coconut fiber causes RI because of the dust -- fall is coming so that could be a reason for the earlier bedtime

 

[realneomc]

There is a screen on top, but the UV is maybe 8 inches from a hammock he flops on often.

The sand is some kind of ground up walnut shells or something. I've noticed my beardies always like digging and scratching, so I converted a shoebox into a hide and filled the bottom with it. The main reason I became concerned about him this week was the fact that he was spending so much more time in his hide (and going to bed hours earlier) than normal.

He has been a bit more normal today, he did come out of his hide by himself and I moved him to his heat source. He has spent the day in his normal spots and eaten a bit of food today.

 

[Sadie]

There is a screen on top, but the UV is maybe 8 inches from a hammock he flops on often.

The sand is some kind of ground up walnut shells or something. I've noticed my beardies always like digging and scratching, so I converted a shoebox into a hide and filled the bottom with it. The main reason I became concerned about him this week was the fact that he was spending so much more time in his hide (and going to bed hours earlier) than normal.

He has been a bit more normal today, he did come out of his hide by himself and I moved him to his heat source. He has spent the day in his normal spots and eaten a bit of food today.

If hes on walnut shells you need to remove that ASAP-- they are toxic to dragons-- the screen is blocking the UVB rays by approx 30% -- please unobstruct the screen or get it in the tank -- distance would be 12-15 inches directly above the basking decor -- this is very important for his over all health -- and the walnut shells are NO good - please get some paper towels in there for now and you can look into getting some textured NON adhesive shelf liner cut to the size of the tank - if you want him to dig set up a container w/ some play sand mixed w/ a little bit of potting soil w / NO additives like fertilizer etc ---

 

[realneomc]

If hes on walnut shells you need to remove that ASAP-- they are toxic to dragons-- the screen is blocking the UVB rays by approx 30% -- please unobstruct the screen or get it in the tank -- distance would be 12-15 inches directly above the basking decor -- this is very important for his over all health -- and the walnut shells are NO good - please get some paper towels in there for now and you can look into getting some textured NON adhesive shelf liner cut to the size of the tank - if you want him to dig set up a container w/ some play sand mixed w/ a little bit of potting soil w / NO additives like fertilizer etc ---

https://www.amazon.com/Zilla-Reptile-Terrarium-Bedding-Substrate/dp/B000OQRGF2

 

[Sadie]

https://www.amazon.com/Zilla-Reptile-Terrarium-Bedding-Substrate/dp/B000OQRGF2

Please remove them --- Crushed walnut shell is dangerous and should only be used to clean up oil spills. This substrate is NOT digestable and if too much of it is eaten it will cause impaction. I have seen this occur first hand with reptiles ranging from lizards to tortoises. Stay away from this product please.