leopard gecko owners??

[averyhanna_]

hey guys-- i know this is a bearded dragon forum and i haven't been as active on here recently, but i'm desperate at this point. there's this one kid who i tutor and his brother has a severely neglected leopard gecko. i don't have many pictures, but she looks malnourished and has some untreated scabs from shedding/humidity issues. i'll try to attach the photo i do have later. anyway, they were looking to get rid of herfor awhile, but i wasn't allowed to have any more reptiles in my room; however, i may be able to get her soon. so i'm basically just looking for advice on leo care, and anything i can tell the kid to help the gecko to keep her at least semi-healthy until i can get her safe (especially issues with stuck shed and scabs--i give my beardie baths when he's having issues but i read that's not the same for leos)

thank you guys for any help, i really really appreciate it

 

[Frank the baby beardry]

Go

hey guys-- i know this is a bearded dragon forum and i haven't been as active on here recently, but i'm desperate at this point. there's this one kid who i tutor and his brother has a severely neglected leopard gecko. i don't have many pictures, but she looks malnourished and has some untreated scabs from shedding/humidity issues. i'll try to attach the photo i do have later. anyway, they were looking to get rid of herfor awhile, but i wasn't allowed to have any more reptiles in my room; however, i may be able to get her soon. so i'm basically just looking for advice on leo care, and anything i can tell the kid to help the gecko to keep her at least semi-healthy until i can get her safe (especially issues with stuck shed and scabs--i give my beardie baths when he's having issues but i read that's not the same for leos)

thank you guys for any help, i really really appreciate it

to YouTube and watch care guides I know a lot about care but it would take a really long time they are such good info on YouTube so please make sure you know what your doing

 

[BeardieLover<3]

1. Housing​

The basic components of a leopard gecko home are:

• an enclosure,
• a heat source,
• substrate,
• and hides.

Enclosure​

An enclosure can be a glass tank, or a plastic tub. Enclosures should be longer than they are tall. Leopard geckos are a terrestrial species and should have a good floor space. The minimum size tank for a single adult leopard gecko is 10 gallons. 20 gallons is often preferred by keepers due to ease of decorating and better heat gradient.

Heat Sources​

Heat sources are extremely important for leopard geckos, as it facilitates proper digestion. They absorb heat through their belly, so the best type of heat source is known as “under-tank heater”. This heat source needs to cover one-third to one-half of the floor of the enclosure. Ideal floor temperatures for these geckos are between 88-94 degrees Fahrenheit, so the heat source needs to be regulated by a thermostat that has a probe.

Substrate​

Leopard geckos originate from areas of rocks and hard packed dirt. As such, loose substrate is not natural to them and should be avoided. Flooring can be picked based on keeper preference, but it should be solid. Commonly used safe substrates are paper towel, not glossy tile, slate tile, or shelf liner (NOTE: tile and liner should not have adhesive backings).

Hides​

Hides are where a gecko will spend much of its time during the day. Hides can be store bought, modified tupperware containers, anything that will make the gecko feel safe and secure. There simply needs to be a minimum of three: one warm, one cool, and one humid hide. The humid hide should have a dampened substrate inside it to aid in shedding. Examples for the humid hide substrate are sphagnum moss, coco fiber, or paper towel.

2. Feeding​

Leopard geckos are insectivores, a subset of carnivore that means they feed primarily on insects. Variety is key when feeding leopard geckos.

Staple feeder insects include:

• superworms,
• mealworms,
• roaches (dubia, discoid, lateralis),
• and crickets.

Crickets tend to carry parasites and should be purchased from safe sources. Healthy supplementary insects can be hornworms, silk worms, and phoenix worms. These insects are healthy but often cannot serve as staples due to restrictions such as moisture content or monetary restrictions. Treat insects are butter worms and wax worms. These should be fed to healthy geckos only as an occasional treat, no more than once a week.

Schedule and Frequency​

When it comes to a feeding schedule, young geckos should be fed more frequently than adults, who should be fed once or twice a week. They rarely eat more than they need at one time, so feed as much as they will eat in one sitting. There is no strict amount on how much to feed. As long as the gecko is a healthy weight, allow it to eat as many healthy insects as it wants!

Gut Loading​

Gut loading feeder insects is important to maintaining healthy animals. Gut loads can be purchased from commercial producers, however it can be just as simple as feeding healthy veggies such as carrots, potatoes, and romaine lettuce to the bugs. Any commercial gut loads should be researched before purchased as there are many junk ones sold by pet stores.

3. Supplementation​

Leopard geckos do require outside supplementation for optimal health. Calcium with Vitamin D3 is required to prevent soft, spongey bones. Calcium without D3 is not necessary to purchase. A good reptile multivitamin is also necessary to ensure proper shedding. Both supplements can be left in separate bottle caps in the tank for the gecko to consume as needed, and should be changed out for fresh supplements every few weeks.

A few recommended brands of calcium are Repti-calcium and Osteoform SA. Some recommended multivitamins are Herptivite. Repashy Calcium Plus is a multivitamin and calcium combo. Ensure that the Calcium powder chosen does have D3 and is phosphorus free.


After breaking one of her legs, Temperance's bones are straight and strong thanks to proper supplementation of Calcium with D3.
Meredith Johnson

4. Common Pitfalls​

There are several pitfalls new keepers tend to stumble into when setting up for a new gecko. The most common mistakes involve:

• substrate,
• heating,
• lighting,
• and cohabitation.

Substrate​

First is substrate. Sand is often recommended by pet stores, and it looks neat and easy to clean. Coco fiber sometimes gets recommended as well. Both are claimed to be natural for leopard geckos. Both can cause shedding problems, gut impaction, respiratory infection, and other health problems. Geckos have a Jacobson's organ and tend to lick everything, so even if not fed on the loose substrate, it can still be ingested.

Heating​

Another pitfall is in heating. Heat lamps and heat rocks are provided at pet stores, but do not offer good heat sources. They are difficult to regulate; heat rocks are notorious for burning reptiles severely, as they can reach temperatures well over 100 degrees Fahrenheit. Heat lamps are difficult to regulate ground temperature with, and require being on constantly to maintain the temperature.

Lighting​

Additional lighting is believed to be necessary for supplementation or daylight cycles, and it is not. UV lights are not needed with proper supplementation of D3. Night lights can actually hinder a leopard gecko’s normal nighttime behaviors and disrupt their day/night cycles. The best option is to allow the room the enclosure is in to be lighted with ambient light from a window. If that’s not possible for some reason, simply turning on a room light in the morning and off at night will work just as well.

Cohabitation​

Housing multiple geckos is another area that new keepers fall into trouble. Especially when one is first starting out with these animals, leopard geckos should be housed separately, not together. Housing two together can result in bullying, injury, and even death.

 

[BeardieLover<3]

Leopard Gecko Habitat Setup and Care Basics - PetHelpful - By fellow animal lovers and experts

 

[BeardieLover<3]

Create a temporary gecko “sauna.”

Get a tupperware box, poke air holes in it, add damp moss/ paper towels and put your gecko in it with the lid on so it can’t get out.

Place the sauna over the top of a warm (but not hot) heat source – their heat mat inside the vivarium would be perfect.

Leave for 30 minutes and check on them and see if the skin is looser. Sometimes it will just come off on its own without your extra help. Sometimes you’ll need to leave longer than 30 minutes

 

[BeardieLover<3]

Put your gecko in a shallow warm bath.

This is good for geckos struggling with belly or foot shedding. Make sure the water isn’t too hot or too cold, and make sure it is no deeper than belly-level.

This should help loosen skin along with some gentle rubbing. A damp cotton bud/q-tip can help ease off the skin, or you could try gently using your fingers and pinching the skin, letting your gecko snatch away its foot and hopefully pulling the skin with it.

 

[BeardieLover<3]

And yes i did own a leopard gecko if your wondering

 

[Frank the baby beardry]

And yes i did own a leopard gecko if your wondering

Lol they are awsome pets I want want but don’t have enough space money or time

 

[BeardieLover<3]

Lol they are awsome pets I want want but don’t have enough space money or time

Yeah me and my friend both got one actually he got 2. I got one. They are super cool, i ended up giving mine to my cousin. She was 6 when i let her go. Her name was Daisy.( i thought it was really cute when i picked the name out) I had her for 3 years. Super easy to care for as long as you make sure everything right. I use her old viv as a cricket keeper lol.

 

[Frank the baby beardry]

Thanks

Yeah me and my friend both got one actually he got 2. I got one. They are super cool, i ended up giving mine to my cousin. She was 6 when i let her go. Her name was Daisy.( i thought it was really cute when i picked the name out) I had her for 3 years. Super easy to care for as long as you make sure everything right. I use her old viv as a cricket keeper lol.

a good idea when frank grows out of his 40 gallon I will ether save it for somthing else or keep bugs in it

 

[BeardieLover<3]

Thanks

a good idea when frank grows out of his 40 gallon I will ether save it for somthing else or keep bugs in it

Yeah im saving my 40 gallon for my roach colony most likely than posibly a rodent. or another reptile, also HOW the heck are you a veteran!

 

[averyhanna_]

Go

to YouTube and watch care guides I know a lot about care but it would take a really long time they are such good info on YouTube so please make sure you know what your doing

thank you. i just hope i can get her out of there. my beginner care would be better than what she's getting now i want to give her the best life i can

 

[averyhanna_]

Create a temporary gecko “sauna.”

Get a tupperware box, poke air holes in it, add damp moss/ paper towels and put your gecko in it with the lid on so it can’t get out.

Place the sauna over the top of a warm (but not hot) heat source – their heat mat inside the vivarium would be perfect.

Leave for 30 minutes and check on them and see if the skin is looser. Sometimes it will just come off on its own without your extra help. Sometimes you’ll need to leave longer than 30 minutes

you are an absolute lifesaver. what temperature roughly? idk if i should wait til i possibly get her or if i should make a recommendation to the parents of this kid

 

[BeardieLover<3]

Do you mean a temp for the sauna? Or just overall?

Overall i kept the floor space at 88-92 degrees and the cool side at 75 to 80 degrees F.

I also think that if you can take her on you should. The kids parents most likely dont care if they have let it go on to tis point.

 

[Zontar’s Mom]

Just to make sure all is good with gecko, I would also take it to a Herp Vet to ensure all is in order.

 

[Frank the baby beardry]

Good

Just to make sure all is good with gecko, I would also take it to a Herp Vet to ensure all is in order.

idea just to make sure nothing is going on internally

 

[Frank the baby beardry]

hey guys-- i know this is a bearded dragon forum and i haven't been as active on here recently, but i'm desperate at this point. there's this one kid who i tutor and his brother has a severely neglected leopard gecko. i don't have many pictures, but she looks malnourished and has some untreated scabs from shedding/humidity issues. i'll try to attach the photo i do have later. anyway, they were looking to get rid of herfor awhile, but i wasn't allowed to have any more reptiles in my room; however, i may be able to get her soon. so i'm basically just looking for advice on leo care, and anything i can tell the kid to help the gecko to keep her at least semi-healthy until i can get her safe (especially issues with stuck shed and scabs--i give my beardie baths when he's having issues but i read that's not the same for leos)

thank you guys for any help, i really really appreciate it

For stuck shed tell her not to pull it of. Put them in the bath. But if there are tons of layers and somthing could happen then do reascherh on how to do it and pull it off

 

[averyhanna_]

Do you mean a temp for the sauna? Or just overall?

Overall i kept the floor space at 88-92 degrees and the cool side at 75 to 80 degrees F.

I also think that if you can take her on you should. The kids parents most likely dont care if they have let it go on to tis point.

i'm really hoping that i can take her. and a temp for the sauna or bath!!

 

[averyhanna_]

For stuck shed tell her not to pull it of. Put them in the bath. But if there are tons of layers and somthing could happen then do reascherh on how to do it and pull it off

i assumed not to pull it and told them not to. thanks for your help

 

[Skybug]

Yeah im saving my 40 gallon for my roach colony most likely than posibly a rodent. or another reptile, also HOW the heck are you a veteran!

He comments on everyones posts lol thats how, the vetting system is broken imo.