Watching a fiends aggressive bearded dragon

[MushuTheBeardie!]

So I have a male 4-year-old bearded dragon who basically loves anything and everything and recently, my friend who is moving, moved her 4 year old female bearded dragon into my room. I will be watching her for 2 months ( mid March) the thing is that she's extremely aggressive. When she first moved in her tank was a 20 gallon and I'm sure that's the route to most of her aggressiveness she is just resorted to instincts. She is extremely healthy though regardless of her tank besides her tail isn't fully grown out. I have since put her in a 55 gallon with some accessories. I'm just wondering what exercises I can do to get her to better trust me and to be less stressed especially when I need to get her out to clean her tank, clean her, or feed her. Since my bearded dragon is so loving I'm not entirely sure how to deal with such an aggressive bearded dragon she bit for pretty much anything luckily she has stopped biting and just resorted to hissing but she's so stressed every time I get her out. Any advice?

 

[Sadie]

So I have a male 4-year-old bearded dragon who basically loves anything and everything and recently, my friend who is moving, moved her 4 year old female bearded dragon into my room. I will be watching her for 2 months ( mid March) the thing is that she's extremely aggressive. When she first moved in her tank was a 20 gallon and I'm sure that's the route to most of her aggressiveness she is just resorted to instincts. She is extremely healthy though regardless of her tank besides her tail isn't fully grown out. I have since put her in a 55 gallon with some accessories. I'm just wondering what exercises I can do to get her to better trust me and to be less stressed especially when I need to get her out to clean her tank, clean her, or feed her. Since my bearded dragon is so loving I'm not entirely sure how to deal with such an aggressive bearded dragon she bit for pretty much anything luckily she has stopped biting and just resorted to hissing but she's so stressed every time I get her out. Any advice?

Something is off in the tank -- temps? UVB? Dragons are not normally aggressive and aggressiveness can be caused by the two things I just mentioned -- a full size dragon needs a 120 gallon tank that is the optimal size - 75 is good 50 is ok but they need to get out of a tank that size often --- 20 is NOT good- are there any colored bulbs being used? How are surface basking temps being taken? NO analogs they are inaccurate! UVB? NO coils they are inadequate! Those will cause lots of health issues --- Where is the male dragon? They need to be separated from view --- they should not see one another at all unless you plan to breed them--- once these things I mentioned are on par you can try and start working w / her to get her hand tamed--- horn worms super worms and BSFL are good ones to hand feed -- it sounds like shes never been hand tamed but dragons are not normally aggressive -- I would get the tank husbandry up to par - shes going to go thru relocation stress as well - she may not eat or she may eat very little -- if you need help w/ a good UVB I can recommend 3 good ones --- they are not all the same quality --- also basking bulbs should be a clear solid bright white bulb --- NO off white NO yellowish or daytime bulbs NO colored

 

[MushuTheBeardie!]

Something is off in the tank -- temps? UVB? Dragons are not normally aggressive and aggressiveness can be caused by the two things I just mentioned -- a full size dragon needs a 120 gallon tank that is the optimal size - 75 is good 50 is ok but they need to get out of a tank that size often --- 20 is NOT good- are there any colored bulbs being used? How are surface basking temps being taken? NO analogs they are inaccurate! UVB? NO coils they are inadequate! Those will cause lots of health issues --- Where is the male dragon? They need to be separated from view --- they should not see one another at all unless you plan to breed them--- once these things I mentioned are on par you can try and start working w / her to get her hand tamed--- horn worms super worms and BSFL are good ones to hand feed -- it sounds like shes never been hand tamed but dragons are not normally aggressive -- I would get the tank husbandry up to par - shes going to go thru relocation stress as well - she may not eat or she may eat very little -- if you need help w/ a good UVB I can recommend 3 good ones --- they are not all the same quality --- also basking bulbs should be a clear solid bright white bulb --- NO off white NO yellowish or daytime bulbs NO colored

Well she can't take a bigger tank since she's moving into a basically a tiny home, I knew that the 20 gallon was not this one that's why I moved her in to the biggest that my friend could take. Basking spot is around 90 to 100, cooling spots is around 70 to 75. No colored bulb being used. Analogs are not being used. The male bearded dragon is downstairs while she is in my upstairs bedroom. I've had my bearded dragon for 4 years and I've never seen a bearded dragon act like this thank you so much I'll work on working with her with horned worms! She has eaten a little bit but has also in the bathroom and everything seems normal there. She was also on a dry food only diet (not because of any particular reason just cuz that's what the owner was giving her) so I've been giving her fresh veggies 80% of that and then 10% is doobie roaches or silkworms could that be causing stress with the food switch as well?

 

[Sadie]

Well she can't take a bigger tank since she's moving into a basically a tiny home, I knew that the 20 gallon was not this one that's why I moved her in to the biggest that my friend could take. Basking spot is around 90 to 100, cooling spots is around 70 to 75. No colored bulb being used. Analogs are not being used. The male bearded dragon is downstairs while she is in my upstairs bedroom. I've had my bearded dragon for 4 years and I've never seen a bearded dragon act like this thank you so much I'll work on working with her with horned worms! She has eaten a little bit but has also in the bathroom and everything seems normal there. She was also on a dry food only diet (not because of any particular reason just cuz that's what the owner was giving her) so I've been giving her fresh veggies 80% of that and then 10% is doobie roaches or silkworms could that be causing stress with the food switch as well?

Is she eating the salads and dubias? I don't think the diet would stress her out- usually it's the move- plus she's in a new tank-- I would get cool side daytime temps to around 80ish- the 70-75 is good night time temps- what uvb is being used?

 

[MushuTheBeardie!]

Is she eating the salads and dubias? I don't think the diet would stress her out- usually it's the move- plus she's in a new tank-- I would get cool side daytime temps to around 80ish- the 70-75 is good night time temps- what uvb is being used?

Yes she is eating the salad but less than a handful it seems and only one or two Dubai roaches a week she shows no interest in the bugs but I haven't tried putting the dead ones in her salad I thought she would just eat around them. The uvb is one a guy at scales and tails recommend I don't have the box, I use a strip uvb for my beardie science he's in a larger tank so I don't buy uvb bulbs often.

 

[Sadie]

Yes she is eating the salad but less than a handful it seems and only one or two Dubai roaches a week she shows no interest in the bugs but I haven't tried putting the dead ones in her salad I thought she would just eat around them. The uvb is one a guy at scales and tails recommend I don't have the box, I use a strip uvb for my beardie science he's in a larger tank so I don't buy uvb bulbs often.

UVB bulbs need to be changed out every 10-11 months for a T 5 -- they lose rays or get weak --- look on the bulb it self it will tell you brand and bulb T 5 or T 8-- you want a Reptisun 10.0 T 5 or a Arcadia 12% 24 watt please dont feed dead bugs -- if shes eating 2 dubias a week that is ok her appetite may pick up