My bearded dragon.

[Aubree273&27]

So I just got this baby bearded dragon like a month ago we weren’t having promblems until he’s first ever shed when I first got him no promblems I would hold him a lot but know when I reach in the tank he hisses and tries to bite me to the point I can’t even hold him or give him a bathe there’s a lot of climbing stuff in the cage and stuff my tank is a reach in tank so I have to reach in where the light are in order to get him out can somebody please help me with this and he dosent eat he’s mealworms I have these freeze dried I think treats I give him the crickets out of those so I’m gonna get some crickets for him it might be due to he’s hunger I’m gonna go get crickets too for him

 

[Sadie]

So I just got this baby bearded dragon like a month ago we weren’t having promblems until he’s first ever shed when I first got him no promblems I would hold him a lot but know when I reach in the tank he hisses and tries to bite me to the point I can’t even hold him or give him a bathe there’s a lot of climbing stuff in the cage and stuff my tank is a reach in tank so I have to reach in where the light are in order to get him out can somebody please help me with this and he dosent eat he’s mealworms I have these freeze dried I think treats I give him the crickets out of those so I’m gonna get some crickets for him it might be due to he’s hunger I’m gonna go get crickets too for him

First of all your dragon is going thru relocation stress --- we need to get the tank up to par meaning I am seeing NO long tube fixture UVB which I am thinking your using a coil---- NO coils they are inadequate and will cause all kinds of health issues ---- I can post 3 good UVB's for you to get ---- surface basking temps need to be 105-110 surface basking which need to be taken w/ a digital probe thermometer --- hes behavior reflects stress improper surface basking temps and UVB --- once these are on par his demeanor and his eating will change --- please NO more meal worms -- they are too harsh on babies stomachs --- crickets are good please do not leave them in the tank over night - he should be eating 20- 25 appropriately sized for him in one feeding --- he should be fed fresh salads every morning along w/ his main staple insect--- insects should be dusted lightly ONCE per feeding w/ calcium D3 5 x per week --- the UVB will help absorb the calcium which is essential for his growth and health - vitamins w/ beta carotene 2 x per week lightly coated on the insects ONCE per feeding ---- here are some websites for food
http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html ignore the kale info its outdated and kale is a good staple feeder
www.dubiaroaches.com I would switch over to dubia roaches - better nutritionally - easier to care for -- if you want some help I can help you get set up for those -- going into winter its best to order them on line and not rely on pet stores they are expensive and unreliable -- freeze dried food is not as good as what I have posted for you I can also post other websites w/ other staple feeders as well --- but we need to get the tank on par or he wont eat at all --