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Morio worms

phill

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
27
Was just wondering your views on motion worms as cant see them on nutrition sheet ty


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Germ

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
4,493
Location
North America
As with just about any other worm, superworms (Zophobas Morio) are quite fatty and make a decent treat only. Not recommended as a staple food or part of their staple diet.
 

Augie

Juvenile Dragon
Messages
534
Location
San Antonio TX
It's also recommended you wait until your dragon is around 16 inches from nose to tail prior to offering them. I feed my dragon 4 a day, tops. She really enjoys them, about as much as roaches!
 

Germ

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
4,493
Location
North America
That 16" 'rule' is preached by one forum only, that I have ever seen. I have never seen evidence of this & have asked on that forum for a source of this info, no one could give one then, or has since given me one, other than they say it is so. Although I do agree that it would not be the best of plans to feed a much smaller BD them too frequently or a lot, if at all. All of mine have been fed supers long before 16" as treat.
 

phill

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
27
Bought some just for bit of variation my god thought they were full on there locust and cricket lunch offered a morio couldn't get to me fast enough nearly took the tweezers in as we'll lol


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gilliesexotics

Super Moderator
Staff member
Messages
833
Location
Indiana
Hi, they will do back flips for them lol...I would highly recommend gut loading these insects at least 4 hours before feeding. What you feed your crickets along with a piece of fresh fruit or vegetable. The bran they come in does nothing nutritionally for them and not to mention keep there Ca/p ratio poor. Be sure to dust with plain calcium.
 

Bushmaster11B

Juvenile Dragon
Messages
543
Location
In the U.S. of A.
I wouldn't feed as mentioned above, until your BD is an adult (Super Worms). If you want a more staple worm that you can mix feed with roaches or crickets, I would recommend Silk Worms. They are the best Worm on the market. Just do some shopping first because they can be expensive if you don't search the web good enough. I just started using Coastal Silworms. They have really good prices.

BTW, My BD begs on his hind legs like a dog for his Wax Worms.... I don't feed super or mealworms due to the large amount of chill and less meat quantity. Plus larger Super worms will pee on you some times if you handle them.
 

phill

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
27
Only give morios as a treat main diet is crickets locusts and greens also have dubia colony in the making but very young at the moment only has roughly 300 or so never fed meal worms at all


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phill

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
27
Never seen silkworm over here sry didn't say my pics on here were at twelve weeks when first got em but still reptiles new to me so always learning this place teaching me a lot in little time ;-)


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TheGuvnor

Hatchling Dragon
Messages
54
Location
England
Thats the first time I've ever heard the 16" "rule" haha!. What is that suppose to even prove?, adulthood in a beardie?. Quite funny:cool:.
Anyways, like anything, its just common sense and moderation. They are high in protein and fat, and will just cause your beardie to become overweight if used as its main food.
Just stick to a treat only. Mine gets a box of 5th Hoppers (locust) every 3rd day. And in-between, maybe 3 morios on a couple of the days off. They do last forever too.
 

Bushmaster11B

Juvenile Dragon
Messages
543
Location
In the U.S. of A.
Oh, I know. I buy 100 at a time and they last me all month. Never as a Staple. My BD is a Juvenile so Protein is on the menu. He eats about 20-30 large crickets a day. Now I have him on Dubias and Crix for Staple with options on the greens.
 

Augie

Juvenile Dragon
Messages
534
Location
San Antonio TX
Thats the first time I've ever heard the 16" "rule" haha!. What is that suppose to even prove?, adulthood in a beardie?. Quite funny:cool:.

One could argue that the "space between the eyes" rule is also anecdotal or just a "rule," but people follow that one to a tee. Also the "feed for 15 minutes" rule. Mainly because although neither are an exact science, they are based on facts and provided to people because they are safe rules of thumb and easy to follow.

Same with the 16 inch rule... otherwise you have people feeding them to their hatchlings, as Germ alluded to at the end of his post. But keep in mind, I think it was thrown out there because you can feed an adult dragon superworms (adults are typically 16-24 inches long), but I don't think you'll ever see a dragon with spaces between his eyes that long. Same with adult dubia.
 

TheGuvnor

Hatchling Dragon
Messages
54
Location
England
I agree totally to what you just said. People do get totally anal with these "rules".
They are all safety related tho I guess.
The space between eyes thing so no choking etc, and people still think it's length tho and not width of the live food. The 15min rule because there are so many overweight reptiles about, this was suppose to kindda help.
It's all common sense, which is lacking in a lot of the population :).
It's just that 16" rule is one I never hear before, made me chuckle :)


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Augie

Juvenile Dragon
Messages
534
Location
San Antonio TX
The space between eyes thing so no choking etc, and people still think it's length tho and not width of the live food.

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They think that because its in the care sheets many mods here provide them when they say they are new here. :D It's not misinformation, it's good information. e.g. http://www.reptilescanada.com/showt...Dragon-(Pogona-vitticeps)-Basic-Care-Part-Two

Last sentence in the feeding section. I agree with that advice. At least until they are 16" long (sorry I just couldn't resist). :D
 

TheGuvnor

Hatchling Dragon
Messages
54
Location
England
Lol. Most of it is great info. And a good guide. As people are stupid and don't use common sense.
Was none of that business when I got into reps. Didn't even have internet back then. Was just a book from a library, and trust in the reptile breeder you got your beardie from. And of course common sense. Just thing is now there are so many care sheets and so much contradictory information, New owner's are often left totally confused, and I do feel for them. That and that they take the care sheet and stick to it religiously, which of course is not a bad thing as they are "safe". But often limiting in a way.
So, it's probably best to pick a forum/site such as this, get the care sheet and stay with it, as if you go to another site, the info is often totally different. Ah!, the wonders of having such vast info available :-P


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