Hi, I am new

[Ian p]

Hey guys, I have done alot of research on beardies on top of aleading keeping other reptiles and finally got one about a weeks ago. I do however have plenty of question. Here is a picture of my little guy his name is "Rusty" and he is four weeks old now.

Ok, so my first question is about a shed problem. A few days ago he shed his tail but the tip of the tail did not shed, What should I do? Can he loose the tip? Heres a picture of the tail.

Lastly I know they need to eat veggies but Rusty does not seem intrested, any way I can get him going on them or is he just to young?

Here is his tank I would also like any feedback on it. Thank you in advanced and I am looking forward to being on the forum.

 

[Germ]

It appears that Rusty may have had some trauma of some kind to the tip of his tail, possibly a nip from a Cagemate. It is difficult to tell from the Pic, but that part may turn black & fall off. Very little you can do about it.

It is not uncommon for young BDs not to take to their greens right off the start, some take months. But you should always have a small supply of fresh greens available to it, whether it eats them or not, so there is some there when it chooses to test them out. See Nutrition Chart below.

You seem to have the basics, which is all that is needed. But your UVB tube must be rearranged so both the UVB & Basking bulbs cover the basking spot as close to the center area of the tube as possible. The way it is situated now, your BD is not receiving the benefit of any UVB at all.

A few good links to help get you started ...

Basic BD Care Sheet - A Place To Start

Bearded Dragon --- Exclusive Care Info Library

Beautiful Dragons Nutrition Chart

Is Bearded Dragon Co-habitation a good plan?

How To Sex A Bearded Dragon

 

[Ian p]

If I have Calcium with D3 can that replace the tube for now?

 

[Germ]

It won't replace the tube. Are you not providing UVB of any kind now???

 

[Ian p]

No I have the light still up and I can start wit D3 in the calcium.

 

[Germ]

Position the UVB properly to cover the basking spot, do not rely on oral D3... Here is a really decent supplementation & feeding schedule that was also provided in one of the links above. This suggested guide takes for granted that you are providing proper UVB coverage.

General feeding/supplementation schedule:
For hatchlings and young juveniles (up to 2 months): Fresh greens/veg. 1-2 times daily - Live prey 2-3 times per day
Dusted: All Live Prey five days per week with phosphorus free calcium – one day per week calcium with D3 - One day per week with a vitamin supplement such as Reptivite or Herptivite.

For juveniles and sub-adults (2 months to sexual maturity): Fresh greens/veg 1-2 times daily - Live prey 1-2 times per day
Dusted: All Live Prey five days per week with phosphorus free calcium – One day per week with calcium with D3 - One day per week with a vitamin supplement such as Reptivite or Herptivite.

For adults (generally 1+ year): Fresh greens/veg 1- 2 times daily - Live prey every 2-3 days.
Dusted: Live Prey every other feeding with phosphorus free calcium - Twice per month with calcium with D3 - One day per week with a vitamin supplement such as Reptivite or Herptivite.

As there are different circumstances that may arise, this schedule is recommended only as a general guide and may be altered to accommodate individual situations. Using a tracking method of when you dust prevents unnecessary use of product and more importantly, potential harm to your dragon! With proper and effective UVB lighting, supplementation with vitamin D3 is not imperative but should be provided in small amounts. Excessive levels of oral vitamin D3 can potentially lead to the excessive absorption and utilization of calcium and/or toxicity as can the excessive use of supplements containing high levels of vitamin A. Over use of any supplement can have the potential to cause serious health problems, stick to an appropriate supplementation schedule.

Amendment to Supplementation: Here is an article providing a good explanation to give an understanding on the Calcium to Phosphorous & Fat to Protien ratio ...

The main points to look out for are the fat content and the Ca: P ratio.​

​

Ca: P Ratio and Reptiles​

​

Many have heard about the Ca/P ratio but not many understand what it means to your reptiles. The Ca: P ratio is simply the ratio of Calcium compared to Phosphorus and so a Ca: P ratio of 1 (one or 1:1) would mean that Calcium & Phosphorus are found in equal quantities, a Ca: P ratio of 0.5 (half or 0.5:1) means that there is half the amount of Calcium than there is Phosphorus. An ideal Ca: P ratio would be around 2 (two or 2:1) as this will allow calcium to be easily absorbed.​

​

So why is this important? It has to do with the way Calcium is absorbed by your reptile's intestine. For any calcium to be absorbed, there needs to be at least equal quantities of Calcium and Phosphorus in their food. If the Phosphorus is much higher, then not only will it prevent calcium being absorbed, but may even leach calcium that is already present in your reptile's body. This can lead to serious problems such as MBD (Metabolic Bone Disease). When Calcium and Phosphorus are dissolved in equal quantities, it forms an insoluble salt (Calcium Phosphate) which is very difficult to absorb by your reptile's intestine. If there is a large amount of phosphorus compared to the calcium, then all the calcium will be bound by the phosphorus and none will be available for your reptile. If there is a large excess of calcium, then no phosphorus can be absorbed, which is also a vital mineral but not needed in as large a quantity as calcium. Ideally the Ca/P ratio for most vertebrates is around 2 (also written as 2:1).​

​

Fat vs Protein​

​

Another thing to look out for is the amount of fat compared to protein. Fat contains twice as many calories as protein, but doesn't provide any of the nutritional benefits that are gained from proteins from their amino acids which are essential for the health of any living creature. The calories from fat are often called "empty calories" in dietary terminology. Most insectivorous reptiles will receive greater benefit from a high protein/low fat diet.​

​

Source - http://www.leedspetshops.co.uk​

It is imperative that you place the UVB bulb in a position so it covers the Basking Spot within 8"-10". This is a necessary part of BD husbandry ...

 

[Ian p]

Ok, I would just like to thank you for all the help I appreciate it. Here is a picture of the new setup does this look ok. Also I will use that diet thank you.(the poop on the hamock was cleaned after the picture)

 

[Germ]

That looks much more effective

.

Personally, I would remove the divider & give it free run of the whole enclosure. Larger enclosures won't bother it, providing that it is left uncluttered. I would maybe add a Rock towards the cool side, this would help keep it's nails in trim, because it would work somewhat as an emery board when it walks or climbs on it.

Be sure to remove uneaten Crickets before lights out. They will come out of hiding after dark, crawl & nibble on your BD throughout the night, bothering it's sleep. Be sure to check under the folds of the repti-carpet, you will 'Very' likely find some hiding under it.

Good Luck & Your Welcome

 

[Pat B]

Loooks like he likes his hammock already!! Welcome to BDF!!

 

[Augie]

I myself have problems with my young dragon not eating his greens. So in addition to offering them to him daily, I also feed my crickets the same greens (usually collard greens) so he gets them that way. Let me give you some perspective: he has now eaten his greens (all of them in his dish) twice within the last five days, so it looks like he's beginning to show interest in them. I've had him since mid-October!

 

[Pat B]

Not too worry about his greens. Some beardies can be really stubborn and might take months before they realize greens are good for them!! Offer them everyday and he will eventually get the idea! That is a good idea to feed your crix the greens....I will have to try that when Spike wakes up from brumating....one of these days!!

 

[Ian p]

When I feed him I take him out and use a separate container is that a good idea?

 

[Pat B]

I would not recommend that...stresses the Dragon. He will find the feeders.

 

[Ian p]

Ok thank you, does these mean I should also wait on handling him?

 

[Pat B]

It takes about a week to ten days for your beardie to acclimate to his new home.....be patient and handle only when necessary