Help!

[MuggleMaggie]

Draco, (what we named our bearded dragon) does not seem to want to eat a lot. How much should he be eating. He is young. My husband measured him and he is 9 inches long. He doesn't touch his greens (collards), I don't think. He's pooped in them twice. I don't know if he poops while eating, or if that's what he thinks of my offering. And the poop/pee combo thing he only does once a day.

Am I starving him? My husband gave him crickets yesterday and the day before. Are crickets everyday a bad thing?

He was used to getting the pellets at the pet store, and all he got for veggies were those gross freeze dried things. So, today, I decided to try to "trick" him into eating his veggies. I'm not sure he even knew they are food. So, I made the pet store pellets soggy like Germ said, and then I mixed in his diced up collard greens. Good idea, or bad idea?

I'm worried about him. We only got him Saturday, so it's possibly he is just still getting used to us...right?

 

[ashley7988]

My beardie, also named Draco, only poops once a day as well but sometimes its a couple poops at a time. He only poops during his soaks. I offer Draco pellets everyday, he hardly ever touches them. Then I give him greens twice a day. I tried mustard greens at first and he hated them. Switched to turnip greens and he loves those but doesn't eat a ton of them. He'll eat roughly 30 small crickets a day, he lets me know when he's done with them because he walks away from me and ignores the crickets. Good rule of thumb is to feed them how ever many they will eat in 10-15 minutes.

He is probably still adjusting, beardies can take up to a couple weeks to adjust to their new environment. Keep feeding him like you are now but don't handle him that much, let him get used to his surroundings and you. It may not take that long, mine was totally settled in by day 3 but every beardie is different!

I forgot to add mine is almost the same size as yours. He's just over 8 inches.

 

[Germ]

A very good feeding schedule\guideline ...

General feeding/supplementation schedule:
For hatchlings and young juveniles (up to 2 months): Fresh greens/veg. 1-2 times daily - Live prey 2-3 times per day
Dusted: All Live Prey five days per week with phosphorus free calcium – one day per week calcium with D3 - One day per week with a vitamin supplement such as Reptivite or Herptivite.

For juveniles and sub-adults (2 months to sexual maturity): Fresh greens/veg 1-2 times daily - Live prey 1-2 times per day
Dusted: All Live Prey five days per week with phosphorus free calcium – One day per week with calcium with D3 - One day per week with a vitamin supplement such as Reptivite or Herptivite.

For adults (generally 1+ year): Fresh greens/veg 1- 2 times daily - Live prey every 2-3 days.
Dusted: Live Prey every other feeding with phosphorus free calcium - Twice per month with calcium with D3 - One day per week with a vitamin supplement such as Reptivite or Herptivite.

As there are different circumstances that may arise, this schedule is recommended only as a general guide and may be altered to accommodate individual situations. Using a tracking method of when you dust prevents unnecessary use of product and more importantly, potential harm to your dragon! With proper and effective UVB lighting, supplementation with vitamin D3 is not imperative but should be provided in small amounts. Excessive levels of oral vitamin D3 can potentially lead to the excessive absorption and utilization of calcium and/or toxicity as can the excessive use of supplements containing high levels of vitamin A. Over use of any supplement can have the potential to cause serious health problems, stick to an appropriate supplementation schedule.

Amendment to Supplementation: Here is an article providing a good explanation to give an understanding on the Calcium to Phosphorous & Fat to Protien ratio ...

The main points to look out for are the fat content and the Ca: P ratio.​

Ca: P Ratio and Reptiles​

Many have heard about the Ca/P ratio but not many understand what it means to your reptiles. The Ca: P ratio is simply the ratio of Calcium compared to Phosphorus and so a Ca: P ratio of 1 (one or 1:1) would mean that Calcium & Phosphorus are found in equal quantities, a Ca: P ratio of 0.5 (half or 0.5:1) means that there is half the amount of Calcium than there is Phosphorus. An ideal Ca: P ratio would be around 2 (two or 2:1) as this will allow calcium to be easily absorbed.​

So why is this important? It has to do with the way Calcium is absorbed by your reptile's intestine. For any calcium to be absorbed, there needs to be at least equal quantities of Calcium and Phosphorus in their food. If the Phosphorus is much higher, then not only will it prevent calcium being absorbed, but may even leach calcium that is already present in your reptile's body. This can lead to serious problems such as MBD (Metabolic Bone Disease). When Calcium and Phosphorus are dissolved in equal quantities, it forms an insoluble salt (Calcium Phosphate) which is very difficult to absorb by your reptile's intestine. If there is a large amount of phosphorus compared to the calcium, then all the calcium will be bound by the phosphorus and none will be available for your reptile. If there is a large excess of calcium, then no phosphorus can be absorbed, which is also a vital mineral but not needed in as large a quantity as calcium. Ideally the Ca/P ratio for most vertebrates is around 2 (also written as 2:1).​

Fat vs Protein​

Another thing to look out for is the amount of fat compared to protein. Fat contains twice as many calories as protein, but doesn't provide any of the nutritional benefits that are gained from proteins from their amino acids which are essential for the health of any living creature. The calories from fat are often called "empty calories" in dietary terminology. Most insectivorous reptiles will receive greater benefit from a high protein/low fat diet.​

Source - http://www.leedspetshops.co.uk​

Read More: http://www.beardeddragonforum.com/index.php?threads/basic-bd-care-sheet-a-place-to-start.5177/

So, I made the pet store pellets soggy like Germ said, and then I mixed in his diced up collard greens. Good idea, or bad idea?

Will often work. Pellets should be 'Spongy', not to the point of being 'Soggy' .

Good Luck

 

[MuggleMaggie]

A very good feeding schedule\guideline ...
Read More: http://www.beardeddragonforum.com/index.php?threads/basic-bd-care-sheet-a-place-to-start.5177/

Will often work. Pellets should be 'Spongy', not to the point of being 'Soggy' .

Good Luck

Oh, I totally misread the spongy vs soggy thing last time. lol He ate the pellets mixed with greens. And we like to feed him crickets, so that's good. I just don't know hold old he is? Do you think at 9 inches, he would fit into the "under 2 month" group, or in the "2 month to sexual maturity group?"

Also, I had a hard time finding the calcium WITHOUT d3, and had to order offline for that.

 

[Germ]

"2 month to sexual maturity group?"

 

[ashley7988]

Draco is 8 inches long and was born on February 11th. I'd imagine yours is a couple weeks older than him

 

[Pat B]

Your little beardie definitely needs time to adjust to his new home. Let him be for about a week - 10 days. Pooping once a day is good but if he doesn't for a day or two that is ok and not to worry. The 'rule of thumb' for feeding is give your beardie whatever he will eat in about 10 - 15 minutes. My beardie doesn't eat greens....drives me nuts but I still offer them everyday. I don't think he eats them because greens don't move but he will chow down on crickets! Sounds like you are doing everything right. These little creatures will cause you to worry but they know what they need. Come back often with your questions and concerns....

 

[MuggleMaggie]

Okay. It's been a few more days.... and he STILL has not eaten greens. I've tried collards, mustard, and turnip greens... hoping one would appeal to him. Nothing. I'm chopping them up to the size small than between his eyes... I'm even mixing some in with pet store pellets that are spongy with water. And nothing! All he wants are crickets, crickets, crickets! And boooooy does he eat a lot of crickets.

So. What do I do? I can't just eat crickets for the rest of his lizard life! he needs some greens! I've read about doing babyfood? How does that work? and what kind of baby food do I get? I'm going to the grocery store today, so I can get anything you suggest.

 

[Lemonpie]

Continue offering the greens daily. A lot of young dragons won't eat them but I'm sure he will try them eventually. I don't think there is a need for baby food. If you want to pluck a hind leg off a cricket and put it in his dish with the greens he may get some greens with the cricket (this is easier to do with roaches as they can't climb or jump).

 

[ashley7988]

I agree ^^ All you can do is offer the greens daily. Mine picks at them everyday and eats a TON of crickets. He's not a fan of the pellets either. Yesterday he pooped in them. As long as he's eating I wouldn't worry.

 

[MuggleMaggie]

Well, I used the youtube video.

and I tried the whole "Waving the wet greens in front of his face" thing... and he just got angry and hit me with his head... but, when I put the greens up on his basking log, he ate them!! So, now, I have some on his basing log, trailing down to his dish. I hope it works.