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Diseases in Bearded Dragons
Coccidiosis is an infection commonly and incorrectly spoken of as a worm infestation. Coccidia are single cell organisms that live in the intestinal walls and can cause diarrhea. Dragons have a low count of coccidian 99% of the time, but only when the lizards are weak due to improper conditions do these numbers rise to dangerous levels. Smelly or loose bowels is a sign of this ailment, as well as lack of appetite and lethargy. Treatment normally involves a antibiotic such as Albon and Panacur though there are less invasive herbal treatments available. Quarantine the animal and ensure it is well hydrated. Force feeding may be required to keep the animals strength up and be certain to keep the dragon very hydrated.
“Yellow fungus” The current belief is that dragons treated with harsh antibiotics and not given the appropriate probiotic post-therapy cause this type of fungus. These antibiotics have killed good bacteria in the digestive tract, allowing yeast and fungus growth to survive in the feces, which then gets on the skin of the lizard. Whatever the cause, it is infectious and lethal. It is recommended that a priobiotic treatment follow any antibiotic regimen. Some known cases were in animals never treated with antibiotics but kept on natural soil. The treatment regimen currently believed to be the best treatment is topical Nolvosan, keep it away from the eyes, then a rinsing followed by a treatment with lamisil. This should cover the infected area and surrounding areas, with another lamisil treatment in each 24-hour period. Acidophiliz+ is a well-regarded priobiotic, though others exist. Treatment should be extended two weeks after the last symptoms are seen. Use a solid substrate during treatment and clean it daily. A complicating factor is that it takes more than ten days for the infection to be cultured, and this often delays treatment until it is too late.
Mites are extremely difficult to remove and require a two-pronged attack. The animal and habitat must be treated. The animal should be given a dilute betadine bath. Allow the lizard to drink its fill before adding the betadine. If the animal defecates, drain the tub, clean it and repeat. The area around the eyes and nose should be treated with mineral oil after the bath. Dispose of all substrate, bagging it for removal, and scrape the corners and edges of the enclosure to remove all mites, eggs and mite feces. Wipe or spray the enclosure with soapy water, and remove the soap. Then use a 1/30 mixture of bleach for 10 minutes. Bake wooden furnishings for 2-3 hours at 250 degrees, longer for thicker pieces. Boil rocks for a half hour. Anything too large for these treatments should be treated with the bleach solution for 8 hours. Wipe down or clean anything else using these treatments as is appropriate to the substance. Use No-Pest strips or cat flea collars in the enclosures and seal the tank or enclosure as close to air tight as is possible. Leave this at least three hours. Bag and remove all cleaning materials for disposal, and let the enclosure sit for at least 8 hours before returning the dragons.
Egg binding is a potentially lethal problem. This most often occurs with a first clutch with infertile eggs. To prevent this, the best plan is to make sure the female is old enough, big enough and healthy enough to breed and has been fed the best possible diet with any needed supplementation. Protect the animal from stress and ensure a proper egg laying area is available. One of the biggest causes associated with egg binding is high stress and improper laying areas.
Respiratory infections. This can include clogged nostrils due to mucus, raspy breathing, what sounds like coughing, and a distinct clicking with each breath. The usual causes are excess humidity and improper heating. As with any infection keep the cage extremely well cleaned and do not allow any other dragons to come into contact with the affected dragon until given a clean bill of health.
Metabolic Bone Disease. The symptoms of MBD include shaking, twitching, paralysis, soft feeling bones, inability to chew food, kinking of the tail and spine, and a pronounced underbite forming. It is caused from improper UV lighting and improper diet/calcium supplementation. If caught early, sunlight, calcium supplements, and Mercury Vapor Bulbs can be used to stop the process. Unfortunately there is no way to reverse its affects any deformities that happen to your dragon due to MBD are permanent.
Mouth Rot/Tail Rot. This condition usually occurs at the site of a injury and is worsened by high stress environments and unsanitary living quarters. The soft tissues in the mouth will be covered in a whitish or gray substance. As the disease progresses, the gums may start to bleed and the teeth may become loose. The tail will become discolored and extremely stiff. Beardies with this condition usually have a reduced appetite or may stop eating altogether. This is a condition that must be seen by a vet. Often with tail rot the tail ends up having to be removed. If you notice these symptoms and ignore them you Beardie can get Gain Green and if it enters his blood stream possibly die.
Coccidiosis is an infection commonly and incorrectly spoken of as a worm infestation. Coccidia are single cell organisms that live in the intestinal walls and can cause diarrhea. Dragons have a low count of coccidian 99% of the time, but only when the lizards are weak due to improper conditions do these numbers rise to dangerous levels. Smelly or loose bowels is a sign of this ailment, as well as lack of appetite and lethargy. Treatment normally involves a antibiotic such as Albon and Panacur though there are less invasive herbal treatments available. Quarantine the animal and ensure it is well hydrated. Force feeding may be required to keep the animals strength up and be certain to keep the dragon very hydrated.
“Yellow fungus” The current belief is that dragons treated with harsh antibiotics and not given the appropriate probiotic post-therapy cause this type of fungus. These antibiotics have killed good bacteria in the digestive tract, allowing yeast and fungus growth to survive in the feces, which then gets on the skin of the lizard. Whatever the cause, it is infectious and lethal. It is recommended that a priobiotic treatment follow any antibiotic regimen. Some known cases were in animals never treated with antibiotics but kept on natural soil. The treatment regimen currently believed to be the best treatment is topical Nolvosan, keep it away from the eyes, then a rinsing followed by a treatment with lamisil. This should cover the infected area and surrounding areas, with another lamisil treatment in each 24-hour period. Acidophiliz+ is a well-regarded priobiotic, though others exist. Treatment should be extended two weeks after the last symptoms are seen. Use a solid substrate during treatment and clean it daily. A complicating factor is that it takes more than ten days for the infection to be cultured, and this often delays treatment until it is too late.
Mites are extremely difficult to remove and require a two-pronged attack. The animal and habitat must be treated. The animal should be given a dilute betadine bath. Allow the lizard to drink its fill before adding the betadine. If the animal defecates, drain the tub, clean it and repeat. The area around the eyes and nose should be treated with mineral oil after the bath. Dispose of all substrate, bagging it for removal, and scrape the corners and edges of the enclosure to remove all mites, eggs and mite feces. Wipe or spray the enclosure with soapy water, and remove the soap. Then use a 1/30 mixture of bleach for 10 minutes. Bake wooden furnishings for 2-3 hours at 250 degrees, longer for thicker pieces. Boil rocks for a half hour. Anything too large for these treatments should be treated with the bleach solution for 8 hours. Wipe down or clean anything else using these treatments as is appropriate to the substance. Use No-Pest strips or cat flea collars in the enclosures and seal the tank or enclosure as close to air tight as is possible. Leave this at least three hours. Bag and remove all cleaning materials for disposal, and let the enclosure sit for at least 8 hours before returning the dragons.
Egg binding is a potentially lethal problem. This most often occurs with a first clutch with infertile eggs. To prevent this, the best plan is to make sure the female is old enough, big enough and healthy enough to breed and has been fed the best possible diet with any needed supplementation. Protect the animal from stress and ensure a proper egg laying area is available. One of the biggest causes associated with egg binding is high stress and improper laying areas.
Respiratory infections. This can include clogged nostrils due to mucus, raspy breathing, what sounds like coughing, and a distinct clicking with each breath. The usual causes are excess humidity and improper heating. As with any infection keep the cage extremely well cleaned and do not allow any other dragons to come into contact with the affected dragon until given a clean bill of health.
Metabolic Bone Disease. The symptoms of MBD include shaking, twitching, paralysis, soft feeling bones, inability to chew food, kinking of the tail and spine, and a pronounced underbite forming. It is caused from improper UV lighting and improper diet/calcium supplementation. If caught early, sunlight, calcium supplements, and Mercury Vapor Bulbs can be used to stop the process. Unfortunately there is no way to reverse its affects any deformities that happen to your dragon due to MBD are permanent.
Mouth Rot/Tail Rot. This condition usually occurs at the site of a injury and is worsened by high stress environments and unsanitary living quarters. The soft tissues in the mouth will be covered in a whitish or gray substance. As the disease progresses, the gums may start to bleed and the teeth may become loose. The tail will become discolored and extremely stiff. Beardies with this condition usually have a reduced appetite or may stop eating altogether. This is a condition that must be seen by a vet. Often with tail rot the tail ends up having to be removed. If you notice these symptoms and ignore them you Beardie can get Gain Green and if it enters his blood stream possibly die.
