Operation: Tropic Thunder

[Bushmaster11B]

*See new enclosure below*

 

[PatsyB]

I'm curious to see how this comes out.

I also have to go watch the movie Holes. I've never heard of it before and now I've heard about it twice in one day LOL!

 

[Bushmaster11B]

The book "Holes" is amazing. Shilo LaBuff (probably chopped his name up, LOL) I think that's his name, the kid who plays in all the Transformer movies.... he is the main character in the movie. Very good movie though. They used about 20 or so Citrus BD's in it. I have to wait until I get paid again before I work on this project more. Give me a week and I will have more progress to show. I am so excited to build this enclosure. It's finally a dream coming true. I had to wait for many years to own a BD because I was constantly deployed with the Army. Now I have the proper time to take care of one. I love animals and always had a special place for reptiles. I had the pleasure of owning an albino candy cane Corn Snake for 6 years before we went to war in Afghanistan in 2001. The Super Citrus BD I bought though, is from Fire & Ice Dragons. He/She is being shipped mid July. It will be 8 weeks old and about 6-7 inches long.

 

[Mungi's Buddha]

Just out of curiosity I am wondering what the actual floor dimension are in the cabinet you are converting.
Reason I am asking and something for you to keep in mind is that bearded dragons are terrestrial creatures that require more floor space than height and as the age they become less and and less inclined to climb preferring to stick close to the ground.
The cabinet you are using looks to be more vertically oriented and more suitable for an arboreal creature as opposed to a terrestrial. It also may prove more difficult to get your dragon's proper temps and gradient set up and maintained in such an enclosure especially considering as he ages he will spend most if not all of his time closer to the bottom of the enclosure. It is not that they can't climb because dragon's are actually great climbers however they are not as great at climbing down and also tend to get more and more lazy as they age so less willing to scale the heights
A much better and more commonly used enclosure size and orientation for a beardie is either a 3' wide x 2' deep x 2' tall or 4' wide x 2' deep x 2' tall both of which provide more than adequate floor space as opposed to height and therefore more suitable for terrestrial creatures
Food for thought!

In your pics you also show that you are going to use Sanded Grout. Actually what you need to use is Non-Sanded Grout as it is easier to apply and get to cover the rock structures because it will flow better. If you are wanting texture for grip then you can simply apply a thin dusting of fine beach sand to the structure during the final coating of sealer.
Here is a wonderful website that will help you out. This guy is the master of building faux stone structures

http://www.lizard-landscapes.com/

 

[Dennis Cronin]

I like the lizard-landscapes "fake city" and the bit at the end with the ginormous lizard walking through the city streets.

 

[Bushmaster11B]

Just out of curiosity I am wondering what the actual floor dimension are in the cabinet you are converting.
Reason I am asking and something for you to keep in mind is that bearded dragons are terrestrial creatures that require more floor space than height and as the age they become less and and less inclined to climb preferring to stick close to the ground.
The cabinet you are using looks to be more vertically oriented and more suitable for an arboreal creature as opposed to a terrestrial. It also may prove more difficult to get your dragon's proper temps and gradient set up and maintained in such an enclosure especially considering as he ages he will spend most if not all of his time closer to the bottom of the enclosure. It is not that they can't climb because dragon's are actually great climbers however they are not as great at climbing down and also tend to get more and more lazy as they age so less willing to scale the heights
A much better and more commonly used enclosure size and orientation for a beardie is either a 3' wide x 2' deep x 2' tall or 4' wide x 2' deep x 2' tall both of which provide more than adequate floor space as opposed to height and therefore more suitable for terrestrial creatures
Food for thought!

In your pics you also show that you are going to use Sanded Grout. Actually what you need to use is Non-Sanded Grout as it is easier to apply and get to cover the rock structures because it will flow better. If you are wanting texture for grip then you can simply apply a thin dusting of fine beach sand to the structure during the final coating of sealer.
Here is a wonderful website that will help you out. This guy is the master of building faux stone structures

http://www.lizard-landscapes.com/

OK, I'm going to exchange the grout for "Non-Sanded Grout". Easy fix. The floor dimensions are a bit off but close to 36 inches x 17 inches. So in conclusion, yes, it is a bit too small for an adult. Here is my proposition for solution: What if I extended the bottom floor space by adding an additional 6 inches in the back? I could build a plywood box type back that would mount on the back instead of the back board I have already glued the foam on as shown in the picture? What do you think about that solution? Me and Germ talked earlier in a thread about getting the temperature to stay consistent by using a CHE on one thermostat at the bottom of the cage with a separate thermostat controlling a CPU fan on a bottom 3 inch vent to put heat to the floor since my house stays around 68-72 degrees all year long (I take medication that requires me to live in a cold environment). Keeping the heat is going to be simple. I plan on having a 10x 4 vent up top by the light or something close to it and at the top of the door I'm mounting some foam tape to seal the crack of the door. Wood is already a great insulator and that's even more reason why my enclosure is going to be covered with that pink insulation foam sheets as shown in my pictures. The insulation alone should be efficient enough. I'm just curious how much wattage of bulbs should I use or start off with. Oh, and to give you a picture of how large that Den/Basking Spot is, I measured the longest part of the surface area and it's about 14 inches. My question is this..... if I did use a second level..... what do you think about me using 4 inch elbow shapes PCV pipes to create a ramp like tunnel up to the top level? This way I could close off the top level and never worry about my BD falling.... I could even texture it with something so the BD could climb up. It would be positioned like a staircase tunnel that goes out the back, angled to a degree that is far from being steep and then it curves back in the back of the cage to the top level. If I did this, I would make sure he had basking spots on both levels and the same with UVB..... I'm early in this build, so I think I can change it however I need too. If I did add the extended back, I would make the cabinet a corner piece and maybe even angle the back wall at 45 degrees to fit in a corner better and hide the extension. According to my dimensions, If I added the back, I would be over the minimal space as you stated earlier. I'm open to suggestions of making this dream happen.

 

[Bushmaster11B]

As of today..... I have officially decided to change enclosures. I have been thinking about what Mungi said and he makes sense, simple as that. Plus, to make this cabinet a suitable enclosure, I would have to alter so much and it's not worth the time or money. Keep It Simple Stupid, LOL. So here is my plan: My mother has an entertainment center table that had glass sliding doors on the front. It's sturdy and big enough for my 60 inch flatscreen too. The estimated size is 4 foot x 2 feet deep x 30 inches tall (inside the enclosure). I will get exact details on measurements by this weekend. That's when I'm picking it up to work on. I am going to cut out a couple of circles for drop in hood lamps, screen them off and start with the same process as before with the fake rock decor. This will be a much better enclosure for detail since I have 3 walls instead of 1. Not too talk and PLENTY of "shallow" floor space (not 4 foot tall, LOL). I will still call it Operation: Tropic Thunder and if allowed, I will continue on this thread for the DIY so future BD enclosure builders will know that tall enclosures don't work.... even for the enthusiast like me. I apologize for the change of enclosure, it could have been something amazing to build. The cairo cabinet will be cleaned up, assemble back to original being and given to my mother in trade. Guess she really lucked out on getting an antique cabinet. But I lucked out on getting the proper size enclosure for any size BD and it doubles as an entertainment piece. Win win for everyone. Plus, I only have 28 days until my BD is shipped overnight. So time is critical and know I have no need to worry about falls, outgrowing an enclosure and cost to build an enclosure from scrap. Thank you Mungi for shedding light on the subject, I hope to learn as much as I can here as a BD owner. Pictures of new enclosure will be posted soon. Thank you for your patience.

 

[Mungi's Buddha]

I think you are making the better choice and look forward to seeing the new build

 

[Bushmaster11B]

OK, new inside dimensions of new enclosure are 44"x 20"x 20". That's 44 long, 20 deep and 20 high...... does this sound like an adequate size for an adult? I plan on cutting out a 6 inch circle in one of the corners on top and installing a screen for a 6 inch hood spot lamp so I don't take up space and for the BD's protection. 10" UVB tube bulb will be mounted inside by the spot lamp. Any suggestions before I start?

 

[Germ]

Yes that will work quite well for an adult, it gives you over 6 square feet of floor area, well over the recommended 4.

 

[Bushmaster11B]

OK, sorry it took so long with the updates. I had to move my Parents to their new home and fight with terrorist. Anyhow, here is the new enclosure I've been talking about. Wait until you see the size difference. GERM, you will be proud!

44"x 20"x 20" and 3/4" thick compressed oak with sliding doors.

2 things to note here:
1. See the old foam shelf from the Cairo Cabinet (Pink in color)? Now see the size difference from that cabinet and this entertainment center? THIS is the CORRECT layout for a BD. It's sitting on top of the enclosure.
2. The 60" LG TV is only 5 feet from the enclosure in this picture to kind of give you a perspective on floor space as well.

And the easy problem, the center has a wall here to support TV's my size. So Im going to cut out about 80% of this board so there will be no wall but there will be remaining board for the front, back and roof so that is still creates a support beam (arch type). This may even help out with keeping the cool side temps more consistent since heat rises and I'm forming a natural heat barrier for the top of the enclosure. Less heat wattage too.

 

[Bushmaster11B]

Here is the light fixture and pigtail I chose and install. Sorry for the giant pictures but not all Smart Phones are smart! Not even my iPhone......

Pigtail- $7 Home Depot

Triple 50W Halogen Circular Rail Light System. $30- Home Depot. I went with this one because it had UV Filter bulbs so I know how much UV exposure my BD is getting with his UVB Tube Bulb. Plus, I don't have to worry as much with my BD getting blinded by over radiation exposure or "staring into the light" (LOL). I chose the Triple because it is trial and error with heating in a new enclosure. This fixture is rated for 100W bulbs which I highly doubt I will have to use. I can also mount 75W in there too plus any combo of the three wattages. I'm guessing all three 50's or 1 50w and 1 75w. But why not redirect the extra and provide some ambient light plus some heat somewhere else if given temps are good?

Make dang sure you have your splices covered correctly and that your wires match color when connecting them. I always use pigtails without secondary ground ( I no use da 3 prong pig-tails, got it?). Keep It Simple Stupid, no offense... an accidental fire will wreck your world!

The next pictures are of me cutting the fixture with "Penny Cutters"/ Medical Scissors. It's much easier to use wire snips or side cutters but I lost mine.... sucks for me. Note: it does not have to be nice and neat. Just bend it back just enough for your pigtail. You can caulk the gaps later.

Note: The last picture is showing the possibility of directing the heat and light source to any position on the Hot Side of the enclosure. This makes it easier for setup since you now can adjust the basking area you may build or buy without having to un-install the light fixture. Heating is trial and error and I am making sure I build it with careful thought. I hope you enjoy the rest of this build. More to come soon this week. It will be done before this Wednesday.

 

[Bushmaster11B]

Here is the UVB Fixture I chose. It is an old 18" 15w "Lava" Black Light, so I know it's built good. NOTE: If you use any fixture that was never intended for a reptile bulb, make sure you match upt the bulb and fixture wattage. In this case I was lucky and both my Repti-Glo 10.0 18" 13W UVB and Black Light fixture were both 18" and 15 watts. So here are the giant pictures again:

 

[Bushmaster11B]

OK, so I did some more on my build today. The pictures shown today are of the center support wall being removed, the Halogen Triple 50w setup with the UVB in between the halogens to provide maximum UVB exposure and the new support for the enclosure so my 60" Plasma can sit on it. After the pictures, I will discuss my first light/heat test on the floor as per surface temps.

Here you see where I mounts/ hung my 18" T-8 Lava Fixture. I plan on trimming the brass chains down a bit later. I mounted it close to the ceiling (20" ceiling height) and in the middle of my Halogens to provide maximum UVB exposure in his future basking spot/area. I am not worried about the UVB being 13w since there will not be any screens filtering out the UVB rays.

Here is the entertainment center without the center wall support. It was a bit challenging getting out plus my unorthodox method was quiet messy as you can see. No worries about the mess though, I have an awesome Dyson that will clean it up.

See? It's clean.... And now you can see what I like to call..... the "Stripper Pole". It is a 1" thick wooden dow rod. The next picture after this is showing where I used a smaller portion of the dow rod to create a support for the bottom in the event the floor weakens from weight. I will later cover the main support dow rod with foam/ fake rock technique but this time, I will be carving a Totem Pole that represents part of my Native American Indian family bloodline (I'm 50% Native). Then it won't be a stripper pole, LOL.

So I ran the lights for 2 hours...... WOW! I knew I was going to get a lot of heat from all 3, 50w halogens and this is what was my results. BTW, I'm changing for next trial run with 2 bulbs.... too hot! My hot side "FLOOR" temp was 130 degrees F. My cool side was 75 degrees F floor surface. I had all 3 lights fixed to one location and that's why I was at 130. I am going to first point one of them to the dark side of the cage and try to bring up the temp over there another 5-10 degrees. Note: I do not have any vents and I will be weather stripping the sliding doors to better seal the enclosure from cold air and escapees (crix). The vents I purchased and should be here tomorrow are 3, 4" circular vents with built in mess and 1, 2'x12" recirc vent with adjustable louvers.

 

[smokejunky]

Thats so awesome.i have one of those stands in my bedroom thats just taking up space.looks like a good project haha

 

[Bushmaster11B]

You should try it. This enclosure will have plenty of room and not too much venting is needed either. Will edit later and add picture

 

[smokejunky]

That would be great.might take a look at mine this weekend lmao

 

[Bushmaster11B]

Back again. Wanted to show a DIY Cricket keeper before we started back with the enclosure. So here we go. I used an 8 gal. Rubbermaid Storage Lockable Tote. They cost $24 at Wal-Mart (mine was free). I used Liquid Nail for the screen and 1 $4 screen strainer for the kitchen at Walmart. I drilled the hole in 4 corners and then used my jigsaw to cut out my diamond you will see in the pics. This is a 4 inch screen:

 

[Bushmaster11B]

Told you I would be back to the enclosure build. Here we go... These next pics are going to show the Volcano rock I found on my trip to Colorado recently and the weatherstripping on the enclosure doors I installed:

Yes, I cleaned the rock.

 

[Germ]

I went with this one because it had UV Filter bulbs so I know how much UV exposure my BD is getting with his UVB Tube Bulb.

You keep mentioning this & before you get everyone in a panic about exposure to Halogens ...

The only UV that a Halogen would put out, would be UVA, which is basically nothing more than white light, that any other type of regular household white or clear bulb puts out. Simply more intense, because Halogens put out a much brighter, whiter light with more heat per watt than most types of bulbs, which is what makes them a really good basking bulb. The fact that they state that it has UV filters is nothing more than a marketing ploy, may have a blue tinge added to the glass. Halogen bulbs make a great heat bulb, have been using them in all my enclosures for over a decade, but will not raise or lower the amount of UVB provided & will not harm your BD in ANY way, whether marketed as having UV filters or not.

While that Lava Rock may look 'Perty', it will be a serious pain to clean & keep sanitary, once your BD starts pooping on it. BDs poops are not dry & the liquid expeelled along with it, from a well hydrated BD, will get into all those nooks & crannies. A smooth rock or branch type structure or other platform, is the much better choice.