NM and brand new!

[NMRancher]

Hi! I’m Andrea (aka NMRancher), an elementary teacher in New Mexico. My students worked on an amazing writing project where they had to persuade our principal with facts, opinions, and teamwork that they needed a class pet. We ended up with a bearded dragon winning by a dice roll!
I just got my first baby beardie and now I’m on the hunt for everything the store didn’t tell me about raising Bearded Dragons.
As I really am a rancher (we currently have cattle and I love my chickens, dogs, cats, and alpacas, too!), I understand the need to learn, adapt, and care for animals in my care as well as their environment. As a teacher, I can’t help but want to learn more!

 

[Sadie]

Hi! I’m Andrea (aka NMRancher), an elementary teacher in New Mexico. My students worked on an amazing writing project where they had to persuade our principal with facts, opinions, and teamwork that they needed a class pet. We ended up with a bearded dragon winning by a dice roll!
I just got my first baby beardie and now I’m on the hunt for everything the store didn’t tell me about raising Bearded Dragons.
As I really am a rancher (we currently have cattle and I love my chickens, dogs, cats, and alpacas, too!), I understand the need to learn, adapt, and care for animals in my care as well as their environment. As a teacher, I can’t help but want to learn more!

Welcome first I need to ask what are the ages of the children? Next in the winter where is the dragon going to be kept during the Xmas break? What about summer?
I can go over the whole tank husbandry as they need certain basking temps and UVB --- I will start out w/ what size is the tank? Adult dragons need a 75-120 gallon tank -- 4x2x2- they need floor space --- next the basking temps and the UVB are the two MOST IMPORTANT things in the tank -- w/ out the proper lighting they will not survive--- so the basking temps need to be takin w/ a digital probe thermometer NO stick ons they read ambient temps only -- next NO coils for UVB they are terrible bulbs you need a long tube fixture -- next they need a bright white basking bulb that keeps temps for babies 105-110 -- NO colored bulbs NO coil UVB's NO sand for substrate NO heat mats and NO heat rocks ----- babies need to be fed 2 times per day main diet is crickets dubia roaches I recommend them BSFL or silk worms --- NO meal worms they are too hard on a babies stomach -- staple feeders should be dusted w/ calcium D3 5 x per week dusted ONCE per feeding lightly coated not like a powder donut -- vitamins w/ beta carotene 2 x per week dusted ONCE per feeding - your baby should be started on salads first thing in the morning w/ BSFL on top used as salad lures feed as many as you want DO NOT dust them -- you will need a bowl like this so they cant escape
https://www.amazon.com/MACGOAL-Rept...uGQB&pd_rd_wg=tLkwE&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mr_hp_d
your main staple feeder can be added to the salad after the baby has eaten for say an hr or so then add them to the bowl dubias work the easiest --- if you need more info on the lighting etc feeding or whatever please ask I can post websites for you but please answer some of my questions

 

[Frank the baby beardry]

Welcome first I need to ask what are the ages of the children? Next in the winter where is the dragon going to be kept during the Xmas break? What about summer?
I can go over the whole tank husbandry as they need certain basking temps and UVB --- I will start out w/ what size is the tank? Adult dragons need a 75-120 gallon tank -- 4x2x2- they need floor space --- next the basking temps and the UVB are the two MOST IMPORTANT things in the tank -- w/ out the proper lighting they will not survive--- so the basking temps need to be takin w/ a digital probe thermometer NO stick ons they read ambient temps only -- next NO coils for UVB they are terrible bulbs you need a long tube fixture -- next they need a bright white basking bulb that keeps temps for babies 105-110 -- NO colored bulbs NO coil UVB's NO sand for substrate NO heat mats and NO heat rocks ----- babies need to be fed 2 times per day main diet is crickets dubia roaches I recommend them BSFL or silk worms --- NO meal worms they are too hard on a babies stomach -- staple feeders should be dusted w/ calcium D3 5 x per week dusted ONCE per feeding lightly coated not like a powder donut -- vitamins w/ beta carotene 2 x per week dusted ONCE per feeding - your baby should be started on salads first thing in the morning w/ BSFL on top used as salad lures feed as many as you want DO NOT dust them -- you will need a bowl like this so they cant escape
https://www.amazon.com/MACGOAL-Rept...uGQB&pd_rd_wg=tLkwE&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mr_hp_d
your main staple feeder can be added to the salad after the baby has eaten for say an hr or so then add them to the bowl dubias work the easiest --- if you need more info on the lighting etc feeding or whatever please ask I can post websites for you but please answer some of my questions

All of this is super good info make sure to get all the temps and lighting right, and welcome to the fourm

 

[Skybug]

Hi! I’m Andrea (aka NMRancher), an elementary teacher in New Mexico. My students worked on an amazing writing project where they had to persuade our principal with facts, opinions, and teamwork that they needed a class pet. We ended up with a bearded dragon winning by a dice roll!
I just got my first baby beardie and now I’m on the hunt for everything the store didn’t tell me about raising Bearded Dragons.
As I really am a rancher (we currently have cattle and I love my chickens, dogs, cats, and alpacas, too!), I understand the need to learn, adapt, and care for animals in my care as well as their environment. As a teacher, I can’t help but want to learn more!

Welcome to the forum thats so cool of you, i wish i had teachers like you growing up. Since sadie got most of the husbandry information for you, if i could give advice on beardie etiquette, how many children are in the class(im guessing smaller like 10-20?) itll be tempting to allow the children to hold him right now, if you can help them to understand he just moved in with us so he might be a little shy and nervous (just like when a kid moves to a new class) the beardie might even be defensive/scared. if/when you allow them to handle him itd be best if the children are sitting on the floor(beardies bodies arnt ment to take 3 foot drops) please tell the children if the lizard becomes restless in their hands , to gently but quickly put him on the ground (someone is going to drop him eventually, unless they get taught on how to handle him... (so someone more experienced can handle him(im shure some of the children wouldn’t even mind if the lizard pooped on them) , use these children to teach the others good handling habits, it’s important to support the chest to halfway down the tail, the lizard will need weekly baths with the water just high enough that it goes up the lizards back( no more than an inch for a baby) he can be scrubbed with a soft toothbrush as well. If you have any questions please do ask we’ll do our best to answer

 

[Frank the baby beardry]

Welcome to the forum thats so cool of you, i wish i had teachers like you growing up. Since sadie got most of the husbandry information for you, if i could give advice on beardie etiquette, how many children are in the class(im guessing smaller like 10-20?) itll be tempting to allow the children to hold him right now, if you can help them to understand he just moved in with us so he might be a little shy and nervous (just like when a kid moves to a new class) the beardie might even be defensive/scared. if/when you allow them to handle him itd be best if the children are sitting on the floor(beardies bodies arnt ment to take 3 foot drops) please tell the children if the lizard becomes restless in their hands , to gently but quickly put him on the ground (someone is going to drop him eventually, unless they get taught on how to handle him... (so someone more experienced can handle him(im shure some of the children wouldn’t even mind if the lizard pooped on them) , use these children to teach the others good handling habits, it’s important to support the chest to halfway down the tail, the lizard will need weekly baths with the water just high enough that it goes up the lizards back( no more than an inch for a baby) he can be scrubbed with a soft toothbrush as well. If you have any questions please do ask we’ll do our best to answer

Lol beardy eitquette

 

[Skybug]

Lol beardy eitquette

Hey! It’s true,

 

[NMRancher]

Thank you all so very much for the replies!
The plan is that he’s basically my pet but gets to hang out at school when we are in session - otherwise, he will come home with me.
As he’s still a baby (and space is limited due to distancing in the classroom), we have a 20 gallon tank to start. I intend on getting another bigger tank in the future for the classroom and then a third tank to keep at home when he’s “on vacation”.
I did go with the all in one kit recommended by the employee at the local pet shop - NOT a big box store but they specialize in aquatic, reptilian, and amphibious species - but have already ordered a ceramic heater, a different type of food, and a cave for our guy/girl based off of this thread.

The students are in 2nd grade and I’ve taped off his “area”...the good thing about this year is I have to say he’s under quarantine and social distancing until he’s adjusted to our class, so he’s off limits to the kids for at least two weeks.
As for handling, great idea! On the floor and a VERY limited amount of people will handle him in a week. This goes perfectly with my current class management system - you have to earn the chance to handle the dragon! I do have live crickets coming in and have read about the mealworms being an issue, so we will hold off on those. I did worry about feeding over the weekends, but the pet store employee says that if I get him used to freeze dried and/or juvenile food he would be ok - is that true? I know live is best but I also need to be realistic that this little one needs a plan B at all times. We get some nasty winter storms in my area and I don’t want him to suffer because roads close.
Today was his first day in class and he did eat a few bites of dandelion greens, a tiny bit of apple, and most of a freeze dried cricket - the “dragon feed” (little red balls) that were moistened with water stayed there until I cleaned them out. Given the stress of leaving the store, traveling, and children in general, I think that was pretty good. Yes? No? I left dandelion greens and a smaller, freeze dried cricket just in case.

He does have a piece of wood that is situated higher for his basking light and his UVB light is on the opposite end of the tank. Until I get the ceramic one, the red light that came with the kit will have to do - it should be here Friday.
In truth, I scoured this site and a Fb page of owners to see setups and copied as much as I could.
Thank you all again for your help, advice, concern, and (I’m sure) your future recommendations!

 

[Sadie]

Thank you all so very much for the replies!
The plan is that he’s basically my pet but gets to hang out at school when we are in session - otherwise, he will come home with me.
As he’s still a baby (and space is limited due to distancing in the classroom), we have a 20 gallon tank to start. I intend on getting another bigger tank in the future for the classroom and then a third tank to keep at home when he’s “on vacation”.
I did go with the all in one kit recommended by the employee at the local pet shop - NOT a big box store but they specialize in aquatic, reptilian, and amphibious species - but have already ordered a ceramic heater, a different type of food, and a cave for our guy/girl based off of this thread.

The students are in 2nd grade and I’ve taped off his “area”...the good thing about this year is I have to say he’s under quarantine and social distancing until he’s adjusted to our class, so he’s off limits to the kids for at least two weeks.
As for handling, great idea! On the floor and a VERY limited amount of people will handle him in a week. This goes perfectly with my current class management system - you have to earn the chance to handle the dragon! I do have live crickets coming in and have read about the mealworms being an issue, so we will hold off on those. I did worry about feeding over the weekends, but the pet store employee says that if I get him used to freeze dried and/or juvenile food he would be ok - is that true? I know live is best but I also need to be realistic that this little one needs a plan B at all times. We get some nasty winter storms in my area and I don’t want him to suffer because roads close.
Today was his first day in class and he did eat a few bites of dandelion greens, a tiny bit of apple, and most of a freeze dried cricket - the “dragon feed” (little red balls) that were moistened with water stayed there until I cleaned them out. Given the stress of leaving the store, traveling, and children in general, I think that was pretty good. Yes? No? I left dandelion greens and a smaller, freeze dried cricket just in case.

He does have a piece of wood that is situated higher for his basking light and his UVB light is on the opposite end of the tank. Until I get the ceramic one, the red light that came with the kit will have to do - it should be here Friday.
In truth, I scoured this site and a Fb page of owners to see setups and copied as much as I could.
Thank you all again for your help, advice, concern, and (I’m sure) your future recommendations!

Please get rid of the colored bulb ASAP- you need a bright white basking bulb that keeps temps 105-110 taken w/ a digital probe thermometer-- DO NOT listen to.the pet store employee they just sold you a bunch of stuff you aren't/ shouldn't use! The UVB needs to be replaced ASAP if it's a coil!! You need a 24" zoo med fixture w/ a 10.0 bulb T 5 for your bigger tank which will be in less than 6 months--- dragons grow really fast --- you can use the 5.0 bulb on the 20 gallon tank but the fixture will need to be unobstructed because of the strength of the bulb--- I posted all kinds of info in my post please go by it! Your dragon will be a juvenile by the time winter comes so depending on what your feeding him by then he will probably be down to one meal a day- get rid of the dried food- it is not very healthy- he needs fresh salads and live insects every day - in order for him to get him to the salad bowl you will need to get some BSFL to lure him to the bowl-- do not dust them--- the basking temps will be hard to keep in that 20 gallon tank and they are extremely important along w/ that UVB- NO coils I cannot stress that enough- I was just helping someone on another forum his dragon is now flipping onto his back and he's been using a coil!! This is typical for a dragon that's been under a coil for a long time!! If you need more help please ask-- your dragon is going to go thru relocation stress as far as the kids I would not let them handle him till after he has acclimated to his tank and surroundings- that is probably going to take longer than 2 weeks

 

[Skybug]

Thank you all so very much for the replies!
The plan is that he’s basically my pet but gets to hang out at school when we are in session - otherwise, he will come home with me.
As he’s still a baby (and space is limited due to distancing in the classroom), we have a 20 gallon tank to start. I intend on getting another bigger tank in the future for the classroom and then a third tank to keep at home when he’s “on vacation”.
I did go with the all in one kit recommended by the employee at the local pet shop - NOT a big box store but they specialize in aquatic, reptilian, and amphibious species - but have already ordered a ceramic heater, a different type of food, and a cave for our guy/girl based off of this thread.

The students are in 2nd grade and I’ve taped off his “area”...the good thing about this year is I have to say he’s under quarantine and social distancing until he’s adjusted to our class, so he’s off limits to the kids for at least two weeks.
As for handling, great idea! On the floor and a VERY limited amount of people will handle him in a week. This goes perfectly with my current class management system - you have to earn the chance to handle the dragon! I do have live crickets coming in and have read about the mealworms being an issue, so we will hold off on those. I did worry about feeding over the weekends, but the pet store employee says that if I get him used to freeze dried and/or juvenile food he would be ok - is that true? I know live is best but I also need to be realistic that this little one needs a plan B at all times. We get some nasty winter storms in my area and I don’t want him to suffer because roads close.
Today was his first day in class and he did eat a few bites of dandelion greens, a tiny bit of apple, and most of a freeze dried cricket - the “dragon feed” (little red balls) that were moistened with water stayed there until I cleaned them out. Given the stress of leaving the store, traveling, and children in general, I think that was pretty good. Yes? No? I left dandelion greens and a smaller, freeze dried cricket just in case.

He does have a piece of wood that is situated higher for his basking light and his UVB light is on the opposite end of the tank. Until I get the ceramic one, the red light that came with the kit will have to do - it should be here Friday.
In truth, I scoured this site and a Fb page of owners to see setups and copied as much as I could.
Thank you all again for your help, advice, concern, and (I’m sure) your future recommendations!

Thats really good hes acclimated im happy to hear everyone has to earn the chance to be with him, that’ll teach them proper respect of the lizard, its very important that the lizard NEVER be put on its back or side (this puts pressure on their lungs), going vertical is okay (they climb rock faces) how are you and your class goin to name it? U might want to pick two names for the lizard (cause you wont be able to tell if its a girl or boy till a couple months) Dried bugs are better than “lizard kibble” id honestly throw that one item away, i wouldn’t feed my dog kibble, i 100% wouldn’t feed my lizard kibble (i can’t imagine what stuff they put in it) its very important he be fed every day as a baby, please keep food and water(he may not drink , most beardies dont) in the enclosure ,live crickets shouldn’t be kept in the tank. (they bite the lizard at night)

 

[Frank the baby beardry]

Thank you all so very much for the replies!
The plan is that he’s basically my pet but gets to hang out at school when we are in session - otherwise, he will come home with me.
As he’s still a baby (and space is limited due to distancing in the classroom), we have a 20 gallon tank to start. I intend on getting another bigger tank in the future for the classroom and then a third tank to keep at home when he’s “on vacation”.
I did go with the all in one kit recommended by the employee at the local pet shop - NOT a big box store but they specialize in aquatic, reptilian, and amphibious species - but have already ordered a ceramic heater, a different type of food, and a cave for our guy/girl based off of this thread.

The students are in 2nd grade and I’ve taped off his “area”...the good thing about this year is I have to say he’s under quarantine and social distancing until he’s adjusted to our class, so he’s off limits to the kids for at least two weeks.
As for handling, great idea! On the floor and a VERY limited amount of people will handle him in a week. This goes perfectly with my current class management system - you have to earn the chance to handle the dragon! I do have live crickets coming in and have read about the mealworms being an issue, so we will hold off on those. I did worry about feeding over the weekends, but the pet store employee says that if I get him used to freeze dried and/or juvenile food he would be ok - is that true? I know live is best but I also need to be realistic that this little one needs a plan B at all times. We get some nasty winter storms in my area and I don’t want him to suffer because roads close.
Today was his first day in class and he did eat a few bites of dandelion greens, a tiny bit of apple, and most of a freeze dried cricket - the “dragon feed” (little red balls) that were moistened with water stayed there until I cleaned them out. Given the stress of leaving the store, traveling, and children in general, I think that was pretty good. Yes? No? I left dandelion greens and a smaller, freeze dried cricket just in case.

He does have a piece of wood that is situated higher for his basking light and his UVB light is on the opposite end of the tank. Until I get the ceramic one, the red light that came with the kit will have to do - it should be here Friday.
In truth, I scoured this site and a Fb page of owners to see setups and copied as much as I could.
Thank you all again for your help, advice, concern, and (I’m sure) your future recommendations!

For the enclosure size 20 is fine for now. But when you get to 6 months they need a 40. And when they get to 12 months they need 75-120 gallons of space. This is why most people start out with a 40 like me. And please do not use the colored bulb and get a strip uvb asap

 

[Julee1971]

Hi! I’m Andrea (aka NMRancher), an elementary teacher in New Mexico. My students worked on an amazing writing project where they had to persuade our principal with facts, opinions, and teamwork that they needed a class pet. We ended up with a bearded dragon winning by a dice roll!
I just got my first baby beardie and now I’m on the hunt for everything the store didn’t tell me about raising Bearded Dragons.
As I really am a rancher (we currently have cattle and I love my chickens, dogs, cats, and alpacas, too!), I understand the need to learn, adapt, and care for animals in my care as well as their environment. As a teacher, I can’t help but want to learn more!

Hi; We rescue & rehome. 1st of all Never ever use colored or coiled bulbs it burns their eyes. U need a heat/bashing bulb tyoically the Clear zoomed is best & the Reptisun 10.0 T5 for UVB. The length of the uvb U order should cover 70 percent of the tank & needs replacing every 6Mnths religiously. Both lights are to be on in the winter for 10-12 hours more like 10 & in the winter 12-14 more like 14. Use digital thermometers & hygrometers only theybare the most accurate. Under 8mnths of age the temp should be 100-105 & after 8mnths of age they like it 95-100 never higher. The humidity should be 30-40; never higher than 4p or they wil get an URInfection. Never ever use sand as a substrate they ingest it & it impacts them. Best is white terry cloth towels (Homedepot) or paper towels u can pick up the poop quickly and keep the cage super duper clean or they will get parasites especially Coccidia which is deadly & needs a vet. At nite for a dragon 9 months or younger u need a ceramic heat emitter it emits heat but No light. Get him a hideaway also & a hammock so he can lounge amd get away from the Uvb I place a soft cloth over the hammock & underneath a fleece blanket. Feed proteins; crickets &’Dubias are the best 4-5 times a day if he’s under 4months old & always a plate of fresh greens/veggies placed on the cold side to munch on all day u may switch it 4 hours later for a fresh plate. After 4mnths go to 3feedings of proteins per day (20-30 crickets or Dubias) u feed till they stop eating and after 8mnths old u can do 2feedimgs per day but always the plate of greens/veggies. The best everyday greens/veggies are: mustard greens, collard greens, dandelions, yellow squash, butternut squash, endives, green beans & snap peas. Twice a week u may also add blueberries, mangoes and papayas as treats. Never ever feed mealworms or dried/bottled food it’s horrible for them. Buy REPCAL calcium powder & dust the proteins 3-4 times a week once per day only. Sprinkle it like salt on fries so they are lightly dusted/coated & shake the ziplock bag then feed; it also slows down the crickets I feed mine out of a huge ziplock bag to keep cage clean. On a non calcium day u sprinkle herptivite once/week/day. Baths twice a week u can do more when he’s shedding in lukewarm, dechlorinated water for 15min mimimim. If u don’t have filtered watere system buy REPTISAFE cuz chlorine dries out their skin. Bath him in clean sink or bathtub or rectangular Tupperware. Never ever get water in their ears and make sure the water level is way below their neck otherwise they can asperate & inhale water & get an upperRespinfection. Never ever leave food ro water in the cage at nite and they lie pure dark and quiet when sleeping. Take him out to exercise & run around monitored very closely of course in the summer let him sit in the hot sun with you for 30min to an hour or run around outside but sit next to him or he will dissapear instantly.

 

[Frank the baby beardry]

Thank you all so very much for the replies!
The plan is that he’s basically my pet but gets to hang out at school when we are in session - otherwise, he will come home with me.
As he’s still a baby (and space is limited due to distancing in the classroom), we have a 20 gallon tank to start. I intend on getting another bigger tank in the future for the classroom and then a third tank to keep at home when he’s “on vacation”.
I did go with the all in one kit recommended by the employee at the local pet shop - NOT a big box store but they specialize in aquatic, reptilian, and amphibious species - but have already ordered a ceramic heater, a different type of food, and a cave for our guy/girl based off of this thread.

The students are in 2nd grade and I’ve taped off his “area”...the good thing about this year is I have to say he’s under quarantine and social distancing until he’s adjusted to our class, so he’s off limits to the kids for at least two weeks.
As for handling, great idea! On the floor and a VERY limited amount of people will handle him in a week. This goes perfectly with my current class management system - you have to earn the chance to handle the dragon! I do have live crickets coming in and have read about the mealworms being an issue, so we will hold off on those. I did worry about feeding over the weekends, but the pet store employee says that if I get him used to freeze dried and/or juvenile food he would be ok - is that true? I know live is best but I also need to be realistic that this little one needs a plan B at all times. We get some nasty winter storms in my area and I don’t want him to suffer because roads close.
Today was his first day in class and he did eat a few bites of dandelion greens, a tiny bit of apple, and most of a freeze dried cricket - the “dragon feed” (little red balls) that were moistened with water stayed there until I cleaned them out. Given the stress of leaving the store, traveling, and children in general, I think that was pretty good. Yes? No? I left dandelion greens and a smaller, freeze dried cricket just in case.

He does have a piece of wood that is situated higher for his basking light and his UVB light is on the opposite end of the tank. Until I get the ceramic one, the red light that came with the kit will have to do - it should be here Friday.
In truth, I scoured this site and a Fb page of owners to see setups and copied as much as I could.
Thank you all again for your help, advice, concern, and (I’m sure) your future recommendations!

The forzen bugs are not the best. Even without will be fine over the weekend. And also make sure to have it on a timer.

 

[Julee1971]

For the enclosure size 20 is fine for now. But when you get to 6 months they need a 40. And when they get to 12 months they need 75-120 gallons of space. This is why most people start out with a 40 like me. And please do not use the colored bulb and get a strip uvb asap

Yes start with a 40 gallon for sure where the doors slide open in the front. They will be stressed in a small cage and it will sting their growth. And YES remove the colored & coiled bulbs and get the long tubular Reptisun 10.0 R5 for UVB & replace every 6mntjs & a CLEAR zoomed basking bulb for heat.