New To Bearded dragons, and have some Questions.

[Andrew ches]

Hi I just got a bearded dragon and his name is B-MO. I got him from petsmart. I got an Infrared heat bulb for night "50 Watts" and a Basking bulb also 5o watts and a UVB 13 watts and 25 florescent coil bulb. I was wondering should i get a more powerful uvb light a stronger one or keep it the same. I feed him crickets and and some small meal worms cut in half or thirds i try to give him rep-cal juvenile bearded dragon food. How often should i give him rep-cal herptive multivitamins and zoo med repti calcium without D3.so can you tell he if anything looks wrong. He is active and not to skinny everything on choosing the right healthy one on sites but he is small like 4 inches almost 5.

 

[Germ]

What size enclosure is it in? Unless your ambient room temps drop below the mid to low 60s F at night, you should remove the infrared night heat\light. BDs should be allowed to cool down at night, slows their metabolism down for a good night's sleep. Night lights of any color will bother most BDs sleep, if night heat is absolutely necessary because the temps drop below the above mentioned temps at night, then a CHE (Ceramic Heat Emitter) should be used in combination with a dimmer or thermostat just to take the edge off, as it provides heat with not light emitted.

What Brand & type of UVB are you using?

General feeding/supplementation schedule:
For hatchlings and young juveniles (up to 2 months): Fresh greens/veg. 1-2 times daily - Live prey 2-3 times per day
Dusted: All Live Prey five days per week with phosphorus free calcium – one day per week calcium with D3 - One day per week with a vitamin supplement such as Reptivite or Herptivite.

For juveniles and sub-adults (2 months to sexual maturity): Fresh greens/veg 1-2 times daily - Live prey 1-2 times per day
Dusted: All Live Prey five days per week with phosphorus free calcium – One day per week with calcium with D3 - One day per week with a vitamin supplement such as Reptivite or Herptivite.

For adults (generally 1+ year): Fresh greens/veg 1- 2 times daily - Live prey every 2-3 days.
Dusted: Live Prey every other feeding with phosphorus free calcium - Twice per month with calcium with D3 - One day per week with a vitamin supplement such as Reptivite or Herptivite.

As there are different circumstances that may arise, this schedule is recommended only as a general guide and may be altered to accommodate individual situations. Using a tracking method of when you dust prevents unnecessary use of product and more importantly, potential harm to your dragon! With proper and effective UVB lighting, supplementation with vitamin D3 is not imperative but should be provided in small amounts. Excessive levels of oral vitamin D3 can potentially lead to the excessive absorption and utilization of calcium and/or toxicity as can the excessive use of supplements containing high levels of vitamin A. Over use of any supplement can have the potential to cause serious health problems, stick to an appropriate supplementation schedule.

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Read more: http://www.beardeddragonforum.com/index.php?threads/basic-bd-care-sheet-a-place-to-start.5177/#ixzz25YX18gK7​

It will be better to keep handling to a minimum, to maintenance only for the first week to 10 days, to allow it as stress free an acclimation period as possible. During this time it is not uncommon for it to have reduced appetite & activity until it gets more used to you & it's new home.

A few good links to help get you started ...

Basic BD Care Sheet - A Place To Start

Bearded Dragon --- Exclusive Care Info Library

Beautiful Dragons Nutrition Chart

Is Bearded Dragon Co-habitation a good plan?

 

[Andrew ches]

20 gallon and plan once he is big enough 55 gallon tank. Zilla

 

[Mungi's Buddha]

You would do better when.you buy his "big house" to get the 40 gallon breeder tank as opposed to the 55gallon tank. If you want Zilla their Critter Cage line of enclosures are good and they make a 48"wide x 24" deep x 18" tall one that is the recommended size for adult dragons. A 55 gallon standard tank is too narrow and tall to be adequate for your dragon...they need more floor space than height.
The 20 gallon tank you have will work.for a temporary enclosure for a baby dragon however a 20 gallon long tank is much better than.a.standard 20.
Your baby will outgrow either of these very quickly so be ready to get the larger enclosure in the near future.
Lighting and heat gradient are the trickest things to get right and in a 20 gallon tank you will be handicapped in getting things exactly how your dragon needs. Dont fret tho because you have come to the right place!

Germ has provided you with excellent links to help you give your dragon the best care. Read them and also read thru the threads here and you will find all the info you will need as well as a whole host of folks ready and willing to answer any questions you may have as well as well as help you and your dragon have a long and happy time together!
Have a great day tomorrow...it will be a goodie

"That's just my opinion..I could be wrong...I was ONCE." Comedian/Social Commentarian Dennis Miller

 

[Josh]

Welcome aboard!!

 

[Andrew ches]

so he has been doing good but he hates to be picked up any help on taming?

 

[Noella]

Welcome aboard and hope your visits an enjoyable one.