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juvenile bearded dragon not eating

Mungi's Buddha

Bearded Dragon Veteran
1,000+ Post Club
I think you were closer to getting things right for your dragon when the temp was reading 107 rather than moving the lights and dropping the temp to 103. Not really sure why you would want to go backwards.
Part of the problem may be using the mini halogen bulbs if that is what you have been trying to use as those won't emit as much heat as the full size indoor halogen flood light bulbs will.
The setup that I have given you is not just a bunch of guess work. He guess work has already been taking out of it by hundreds if not thousands of keepers that have used this setup both previously and currently with great success.
As I have mentioned I use the same setup on our dragon's enclosure with no issues once it is dialed in. That dialing in process too is not a complicated process and usually only a matter of making sure that the basking bulb you choose is #1 giving off sufficient heat to get to the proper temp your dragon requires and #2 making sure it is not too powerful.
Here is a pic of Mungi's current 40 gallon Breeder tank enclosure where you can see that my set up is just as I have discribed and recommended that you set yours up like as well.
You can see the 18" UV fixture is mounted inside inside the tank just under the rim, the basking light on the right is a single 75 watt Full size indoor Halogen light in a deep dome fixture and both are positioned to where they are shining directly over the basking spot. You may be able to use a lower watt flood light. Mungi's is suspended above because I only had 75 watt on hand the last time I changed his basking light. Before I used a 50 watt but had the light lowered to just above the screen. The basking spot thermometer probe is attached directly to his basking spot to get the correct reading of that spot on his basking rock. The middle fixture above his enclosure is not currently in use but is for a CHE ceramic heat emitter that is used as a backup only and is on a digital thermostat. The light on his cool side is a 13 watt mini florescent coil bulb that produces no extra heat and is only for ambient light on that side because of the live video we stream from his enclosure during the day.
BTW as you can see he really doesn't care if there is a light over on that side or not during the day and is sound asleep in this pic because he is still in his brumation cycle and only beginning to come out of it so he still naps occasionally on the cool side for now.
His lights are set on a programable and set on a 12 on/12 off schedule and at night there is no lighting nor supplemental heat unless the house temp were to drop below 65F which it wouldnt under normal circumstance but if it were to then the CHE fixture is on hand to correct that. The room he is in is not air conditioned nor is most of our home but it does have central heat during the winter and we generally keep the ambient temp in our home between 72- 78F thru out the year.
His enclosure albeit decorated a little is still very basic. He has a basking spot and a single food dish. He would also have a large rock in there to keep his nails trimmed naturally but since his substrate is slate tile that takes care of that. The only variance really is his hammock which he occasion likes to lounge on and the platform on the cool side that I built to give him another level to climb and instead of a hide because he never really showed any interest in using a hide but preferred to sleep on to of it when he had one.
There are also no places for live feeders to really hide where he can't get to them so most times when he is fed roaches I can leave them in during the day for him to feed on at his own pace.


I'm showing you his enclosure to show you that the setup I have described to you and the suggestions I have made work and will work for you too if you will follow them.

The digital thermometers with the probe are very accurate as long as the probes are placed correctly. I would recommend that you attach is directly to the basking spot and concentrate on getting a consistent reading of 110F. It will fluctuate a few degrees during the day but that is the nature of temps. You just don't want it going way over the desired temp.
The gaping that your dragon was doing is perfectly natural and his way of thermo-regulating. As far as him being able to gauge temp radiating better than the thermometer probe he may or may not be able to but using the probe properly attached is the only way we can make sure that he has the right temp available to him and that it is not too high nor to low since unfortunately they don't have a voice to tell us human creatures to turn up or turn down the heat.:D
One last thing I will point out is the reason for me stating that you need to attach the probe to his basking spot using a twist tie or zip tie or other means is for the exact reason you witnessed when you just laid the probe up there. If it is not attached he will move it every time.
Once again hope this helps!
Enjoy!
 

Dennis Cronin

Juvenile Dragon
Yeah, part of it is I'm trying to use what I've already got. The bulb size shouldn't matter. 50w is 50w so far as I know. I've got it pretty solid 105 over the tree with him able to move to a hotter or cooler part of the tree. The cool side is 80. The probe is wedged into the branches of the tree.

He tried to bite both probe wires. Took a nip, didn't try again.

Fresh crickets again, ignored 'em. Tried again with the Reptaid doing the thing where you try to pry the side of his mouth open. Maybe got a little in, hard to tell. He was pretty active this evening, moving around the cage a bunch, but still not showing any interest in food.

Oh well, it's really probably only day one having things warm enough for him.

Dennis
 

Mungi's Buddha

Bearded Dragon Veteran
1,000+ Post Club
Glad you are finally getting it sorted out:) And no actually not all 50 watt halogen bulbs perform exactly the same or have he same output light wise or heat wise but that's a discussion topic for another day..Lol:D
Enjoy your weekend!
 

Dennis Cronin

Juvenile Dragon
Still alive and active. Shows no interest in fresh crickets but I'm not sure every cricket that I've put in his cage is present and accounted for so maybe he's snacking in private. My wife and I were fairly aggressive trying to get some Reptaid into him with me holding the side of his lip down and her doing the drops. Not sure any made it in but we'll keep trying.

He's hanging out near the 110 degree spot of the tree, a little away from the hottest spot. He seems to get down and move around the cage a fair amount. Leaving him alone except for baths and Reptaid.
 

Dennis Cronin

Juvenile Dragon
By the way, I like that slate tile substrate. That seems better than the repti-carpet stuff the Petsmart sold me. Crickets can't hide under it. Did you just buy floor tiles? How did you cut to fit?
 

Dennis Cronin

Juvenile Dragon
OK, he had a nice big poop tonight in the tub. He drank quite a bit and then when I came back a few minutes later there was a big poop about 1.25" long, 2/3 brown and 1/3 white-ish clear. So that makes me think he's one of those dragons that just doesn't let you seem him eat.
 

Mungi's Buddha

Bearded Dragon Veteran
1,000+ Post Club
By the way, I like that slate tile substrate. That seems better than the repti-carpet stuff the Petsmart sold me. Crickets can't hide under it. Did you just buy floor tiles? How did you cut to fit?
The slate tiles that are in Mungi's enclosure I bought at Lowes. They were only a couple of bucks a piece. You can get tiles at Home Depot and other suppliers as well but I buy them from Lowes because there is I buy the tile they will cut them for free.
For a 40 gallon Breeder tank like his it only requires three 12x12 tiles and six 6x6 tiles and just a few cuts.
Here is a diagram of how the tiles fit and showing how they were cut in case you want to do that for your dragon's enclosure.
They just lay in tank and can easily be pulled out for cleaning.


Sounds like your little dragon is liking the changes you made to his setup. His getting the right temps and proper UV will make a huge difference for him. Plus gives you peace of mind and satisfaction that you are taking proper care of him now. :) Keep up the good work and updates on how he is doing (hint: pics pics pics..we love pics and video on the BDF!) and as always if you have any other questions or concerns don't hesitate to shout out!
Enjoy!!
 

Dennis Cronin

Juvenile Dragon
Huge thanks for all the help. It was weird, I'd bought so much stuff at Petsmart and thought I probably had to be in the zone, but yeah, getting the temp probes so I had to confidence to crank up the heat and the extra bulbs seems to have helped. He basked for a bit this morning to warm up and then hopped down and ate 4 pieces of greens. Still ignores crickets when I'm watching but they're disappearing. So I think maybe we're out of the woods.

I'm still suspicious that the top of that tree is a bit too hot because he kinda hangs off the side. I've got the probe in the tree branches and it's showing a solid 109-111. But he seems to know how to regulate. Far side of his enclosure is at 78-82. It just doesn't look super comfy that hanging thing he does. When the light has been less direct he'll climb fully up on top of the tree and spread out.

Floor tile stuff looks great. Thanks for sharing. I'll do that this weekend and also maybe try to get a tall rock going instead of the tree.

I like your tile layout thanks. Here are some fresh pics.
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Dennis Cronin

Juvenile Dragon
Ate all his greens today. Put more in tonight and he ate those too. Didn't touch the fruit. I briefly put the cricket carrier in his cage and he started striking at the crickets in the carrier even though he couldn't get to 'em. He continues to ignore the crickets roaming his cage though.
 

Germ

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
I have had a few BDs that for a long time, refused to eat while I was watching, but after leaving the room, peak around the corner a minute or 2 later & they would be munching away ...
 

Dennis Cronin

Juvenile Dragon
Ate a cricket for me this morning. Ate some greens. Giving him beet, leek, and some kind of dark lettuce the Nellie buys and he's munching it all down.
 

Dennis Cronin

Juvenile Dragon
Gave him a bath tonight. He had a huge poop. Man, those critters can get the job done, huh? Then later I put a bunch of fresh crickets in his cage and he immediately went after them and ate 5 in a row. I think we're in a happy place now.
 

Pat B

Super Moderator
Spike refuses to eat in front of me! He looks at me and tells me to go away so I do. I come back about 3 minutes later and his crickets are all gone!! :D
 

Dennis Cronin

Juvenile Dragon
OK, I'm going to sign off on this "not eating" thread because I think it's safe to say he's eating now. I'm going to go back and talk to the girl and guy who helped me at Petsmart. They both keep bearded dragons and seemed pretty enthusiastic about 'em so I need to share what I've learned here.

I'll be around and will post more pics. Our guy's name is Capbo which is from "Cap" for Captain America and "bo", not sure why.
 

Julee1971

Juvenile Dragon
Sorry for long post. Wanted to provide details.

Got a baby beardie. He wasn't eating, only ate 2.5 crickets in two weeks. Cage temp 90-95 degrees, basking bulb and UV bulb, water, misting twice daily, a couple baths, fresh greens and fruit every day. Tried feeding him both in his main cage and in a separate little carrier. Then after two weeks he died. I'd had him out of the cage and he was running on my chest, seemed fine, not overly skinny. But then an hour later I noticed he was in a funny position in the cage. And he was already stiffening up.

Got another beardie, this time a nice plump "juvenile." Got him home, he immediately ate 4 crickets and I thought, yeah, this is how it should be.

But he hasn't really eaten since. At first we were handling him a bit because the lady at the pet store said we should get him used to it. But then I read here that can stress them out, so I've been leaving him alone. I'm putting crickets in the main cage, a 40 gallon divided in two. Also gave him some dubia roaches yesterday. He shows not interest.

He drank some water from an eye dropper this morning. Doesn't seem skinny but also has stopped having big poops. At first he had a pencil-thickness dark green poops about 0.75 inches long each day. Now he just has kinda skinny little clear-ish ones.

We live in Arizona and have had the cage on the back porch figuring he'd like the warmth. Moved the cage inside this morning. As I said, it's a 40 gallon cage but I've subdivided it with a piece of wood as recommended here. Minimal stuff in the cage so the crickets and dubia roaches can't hide.

Any ideas what to try? I'm a bit paranoid about loosing another one obviously. See attached pics to see how he looks and see his setup. Thanks.
U burned the first Beardie if he got stiff low that ajdcthen u have the nerve to get a second one???? U can’t leave a cage outside lady!!! And u can’t divide a 40 gallon tank he needs Room to run and roam!! U need a ZooMed basking bulb 100watts for a 40gallon and place light 12-14 inches above his basjing platfotm amd u need the Reptisun long tubular bulb 10.9 T5; it goes in the back of the cage on top of the screen and should cover 70-80 percent of the cage!! Replace the Reptisun every 6months And basking light goes ti the front right or front left of the cage and the other side is cold where the food and water go!! Also lots of protein and veggies/greens!!! Beardies need protein 3-5 times a day then when 5months old 3 times a day. Feed them Crickets and Dubia roaches only!!!! NO mealworms or jarred food!! And google staples greens and veggies; dandelions/mustard and collard greens, snap peas, yellow squash, butternut squash and cut it up bite size when little and a bit bigger when they get older!!feed 2-3 veggies/and 2-3 greens in a bowl!! Also crickets to be dustedcim calcium once per day 5 times per week!! NO colored red, black or coiled bulbs ever!!! Ever!! It burns their eyes!! They like pure dark at nite and if u don’t have your a/c Running all nite he should be fine temp should be 70 or higher at nite it can be 68 even. In winter u can use a ceramic heat emitter it’s a bulb that emits heat bit hot light but place it next to where he sleeps!!! Also humidity 30-49 but the thrive brand round Black dial and place it 2inches from top of cage in hot side and temps for a baby should be 105, 3-11 months old it should be 95-105 and adults 1 year plus 95-100!! Also baths 2timea per week in likewarm
Water for 15min dechkorinated water!! Buy reptisafe and it’s 2drops for every cupnalso place a drop ok hus drinking wanted if u don’t have bottled or a water softener!!
 

Julee1971

Juvenile Dragon
OK, I'm going to sign off on this "not eating" thread because I think it's safe to say he's eating now. I'm going to go back and talk to the girl and guy who helped me at Petsmart. They both keep bearded dragons and seemed pretty enthusiastic about 'em so I need to share what I've learned here.

I'll be around and will post more pics. Our guy's name is Capbo which is from "Cap" for Captain America and "bo", not sure why.
Most persmartcir petco people are idiots!! U can’t feed a Beardie until one hour after basking!! They need to be warm and have the right temps to eat!!! 0-4 months old temp should be around 105-110 then when he’s 5-11 months temp should be 100-105 and fit adults 12monthd and older 95-100. All around I wud say 100-102 is a perfect temp for a Beardie!!!
 

BeardedDragonDude

Juvenile Dragon
U burned the first Beardie if he got stiff low that ajdcthen u have the nerve to get a second one???? U can’t leave a cage outside lady!!! And u can’t divide a 40 gallon tank he needs Room to run and roam!! U need a ZooMed basking bulb 100watts for a 40gallon and place light 12-14 inches above his basjing platfotm amd u need the Reptisun long tubular bulb 10.9 T5; it goes in the back of the cage on top of the screen and should cover 70-80 percent of the cage!! Replace the Reptisun every 6months And basking light goes ti the front right or front left of the cage and the other side is cold where the food and water go!! Also lots of protein and veggies/greens!!! Beardies need protein 3-5 times a day then when 5months old 3 times a day. Feed them Crickets and Dubia roaches only!!!! NO mealworms or jarred food!! And google staples greens and veggies; dandelions/mustard and collard greens, snap peas, yellow squash, butternut squash and cut it up bite size when little and a bit bigger when they get older!!feed 2-3 veggies/and 2-3 greens in a bowl!! Also crickets to be dustedcim calcium once per day 5 times per week!! NO colored red, black or coiled bulbs ever!!! Ever!! It burns their eyes!! They like pure dark at nite and if u don’t have your a/c Running all nite he should be fine temp should be 70 or higher at nite it can be 68 even. In winter u can use a ceramic heat emitter it’s a bulb that emits heat bit hot light but place it next to where he sleeps!!! Also humidity 30-49 but the thrive brand round Black dial and place it 2inches from top of cage in hot side and temps for a baby should be 105, 3-11 months old it should be 95-105 and adults 1 year plus 95-100!! Also baths 2timea per week in likewarm
Water for 15min dechkorinated water!! Buy reptisafe and it’s 2drops for every cupnalso place a drop ok hus drinking wanted if u don’t have bottled or a water softener!!
Could you Stop yelling and SHUT UP!? Like I said before Julee1971, if you're going to treat everyone like idiots, don't post, you're not helping anyone. I don't think you like to be treated like an idiot, do you? Honestly just stop. YOU have the nerve to still treat everyone like an idiot?! Also, this post was created in 2013, do you really think they're are still watching this forum? I'm actually glad they aren't on here to listen to this garbage.
 
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