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Is zoo med a good brand?

Morgsie006

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
6
You need to get a digital probe thermometer-- stick ons are inaccurate-- you want temps 105-110 for a baby-- 95-110 for juvie-/ adult--if one of those bulbs in the dome is a coil UVB it needs to be replaced w/ a 24" fixture like a zoo med
Yes, he has the 150 watt reptile basking spot lamp on the left side and the Reprising coil uvb on the right. I think the large domes are too deep too so the lights are too far away. Do you suggest. Hanging a hood inside the terrarium for the uvb light and maybe getting a shallower done for the basking light? Or do you think a 100 watt ceramic heat emittor is better than the basking lights? He hasn’t really been eating (only like 2 crickets) and isn’t interested in his live mealworms or veggies. I only got him on Saturday so I am sure he is still adjusting but I want to get it right!!
You need to get a digital probe thermometer-- stick ons are inaccurate-- you want temps 105-110 for a baby-- 95-110 for juvie-/ adult--if one of those bulbs in the dome is a coil UVB it needs to be replaced w/ a 24" fixture like a zoo med and a Reptisun 10.0 T 5
 

Morgsie006

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
6
Yes, I currently have the 150 watt basking spot lamp bulb on the left side and the reptisun coil uvb on the right side of the dome. It is a deep done so I think the lights might also be too far away. Do you suggest I hang a Reptisun terrarium hood that I put inside the habitat for the UVB and get a shallower dome light for my basking light? OR, do you think a ceramic heat emittor is better for the basking spot? He hasn’t really been eating (only like 2 crickets a day) and is t interested in his mealworms or his salad mix. He also has stress marks. I only got him on Saturday so I know he is still adjusting, but I’m getting worried and want to make sure I’m doing it right! Digital thermometers are coming tomorrow in mail.
 

Morgsie006

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
6
Yes, I currently have the 150 watt basking spot lamp bulb on the left side and the reptisun coil uvb on the right side of the dome. It is a deep done so I think the lights might also be too far away. Do you suggest I hang a Reptisun terrarium hood that I put inside the habitat for the UVB and get a shallower dome light for my basking light? OR, do you think a ceramic heat emittor is better for the basking spot? He hasn’t really been eating (only like 2 crickets a day) and is t interested in his mealworms or his salad mix. He also has stress marks. I only got him on Saturday so I know he is still adjusting, but I’m getting worried and want to make sure I’m doing it right! Digital thermometers are coming tomorrow in mail.
9DB01E49-8065-4D97-B22D-88A0868F3D64.jpeg
 

Morgsie006

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
6
Sadie says in the last post, I understand you bought a kit, I did too and had to replace the lights. What type of UVB do you have now? Coil or a bulb? And what brand?

https://www.amazon.com/Sunblaster-9...N78KWNGDAMN&psc=1&refRID=CEC02128RN78KWNGDAMN
with this bulb should work Amazon.com : Zoo Med 26061 Reptisun 10.0 T5-Ho Uvb 24W Fluorescent Lamp, 22" : Pet Habitat Heat Lamps : Pet Supplies

I just ended up buying 2 Zilla slimline desert fixtures that are 18 inches each that have desert 50 uvb t8 Flores ent bulbs in them. Hoping that those help! I also got a lower dome to hold my 150 watt basking light. The one I have is super deep so the bulb is like 12+ inches away from his basking spot
 

Julee1971

Juvenile Dragon
3 Year Member
Messages
773
I purchased the kit (NOT USING SAND GOD NO) and I’m using a tank heater, three zoo med thermometers (they aren’t digital) and a zoo med UVB (not coil) and basking light. I just kinda need to know if I should change stuff out or not because I don’t wanna make him sick.
Hi, many pet stores/teenagers that work their give wrong info & sell an already made setup which has incorrect stuff. We rescue and rehome so: YES zoomed is an excellent brand. All u need for a Beardie is a ZooMed “CLEAR” basking bulb; never ever use coiled or colored bulbs. And a Reptisun 10.0 T5 for UVB. U can order from Amazon or Carolina custom cages. The length of the uvb u order should cover 70 percent of the tank and placed in the back starting at the hot side, and the heat/basking lamp along with his basking platform in front of it more towards the front. Get a hammock to place 6inches or more below the uvb and place that on the hot side behind the basking light and cover witha soft cloth so underneath is a hideaway for him to escape the uvb. U can place a soft fleece blanket underneath it; they love fleece. Keep the UVB & heat lamp on in the winter for 10-12 hours more like 10, they have less energy in the winter and in the summer u keep it on for 12-14 hours, more like 14. Also get a digital the other and digital hygrometer from Petsmart or online they are only $10. Those are the only accurate ones. Crickets and Dubia roaches for proteins only and feed 4-5 times a day till they stop eating; they need lots of protein at a young age, then when they turn 4mnths old or so u can feed proteins 3times a day & at 7mnths u can feed proteins twice a day. Then at a year old or so u can do proteins once per day (like 10-12 large crickets) but always the plate of greens/veggies forever. 1-2 plates per day fresh ones. Meal worms are horrible for them so don’t feed it it Impacts them and destroys their tummy. Always the plate of greens/veggies start doing that now or as adults they will never ever eat them. Mix a variety & cut it up very small and let him eat of your hands as u introduce new stuff & shake the plate Amd pace it on the cold side so it doesn’t get wilted. I switch mine out mid day. Never ever feed anything bigger than the space between his 2eyes. The best everyday &’only recommended ones are: mustard greens, collard greens, dandelions, endives, yellow squash, butternut squash, snap peas & green beans. U can do fruits as treats 2 times a week blueberries, mangoes & papaya. Limit the sugar it’s not good for them;) after a year old u can introduce super and hornworms as treats they love them but are high in fat. Hope this helps and remove the heaters u don’t need those. At night especIlyl as a baby/juvenile of the temp drops below 70 place a ceramic heat emitter 60watt which emits heat but no light. Don’t use this heat emitter in the summer cuz it’s so hot and their bodies need to below down from the heat so nothing at night on the summer. At night they need pure dark and quiet for sleeping. Also they love to watch tv during the day it’s their entertainment watching things, I put friends on and I love Raymond they don’t like lois noise/violence.
 

TinySmaugOfficial

Hatchling Dragon
Messages
74
Hi, many pet stores/teenagers that work their give wrong info & sell an already made setup which has incorrect stuff. We rescue and rehome so: YES zoomed is an excellent brand. All u need for a Beardie is a ZooMed “CLEAR” basking bulb; never ever use coiled or colored bulbs. And a Reptisun 10.0 T5 for UVB. U can order from Amazon or Carolina custom cages. The length of the uvb u order should cover 70 percent of the tank and placed in the back starting at the hot side, and the heat/basking lamp along with his basking platform in front of it more towards the front. Get a hammock to place 6inches or more below the uvb and place that on the hot side behind the basking light and cover witha soft cloth so underneath is a hideaway for him to escape the uvb. U can place a soft fleece blanket underneath it; they love fleece. Keep the UVB & heat lamp on in the winter for 10-12 hours more like 10, they have less energy in the winter and in the summer u keep it on for 12-14 hours, more like 14. Also get a digital the other and digital hygrometer from Petsmart or online they are only $10. Those are the only accurate ones. Crickets and Dubia roaches for proteins only and feed 4-5 times a day till they stop eating; they need lots of protein at a young age, then when they turn 4mnths old or so u can feed proteins 3times a day & at 7mnths u can feed proteins twice a day. Then at a year old or so u can do proteins once per day (like 10-12 large crickets) but always the plate of greens/veggies forever. 1-2 plates per day fresh ones. Meal worms are horrible for them so don’t feed it it Impacts them and destroys their tummy. Always the plate of greens/veggies start doing that now or as adults they will never ever eat them. Mix a variety & cut it up very small and let him eat of your hands as u introduce new stuff & shake the plate Amd pace it on the cold side so it doesn’t get wilted. I switch mine out mid day. Never ever feed anything bigger than the space between his 2eyes. The best everyday &’only recommended ones are: mustard greens, collard greens, dandelions, endives, yellow squash, butternut squash, snap peas & green beans. U can do fruits as treats 2 times a week blueberries, mangoes & papaya. Limit the sugar it’s not good for them;) after a year old u can introduce super and hornworms as treats they love them but are high in fat. Hope this helps and remove the heaters u don’t need those. At night especIlyl as a baby/juvenile of the temp drops below 70 place a ceramic heat emitter 60watt which emits heat but no light. Don’t use this heat emitter in the summer cuz it’s so hot and their bodies need to below down from the heat so nothing at night on the summer. At night they need pure dark and quiet for sleeping. Also they love to watch tv during the day it’s their entertainment watching things, I put friends on and I love Raymond they don’t like lois noise/violence.
yeahhh my parents just go off of what the teenagers at the pet store say. I can’t convince them otherwise because “they know what theyre doing”. Had a girl (prob about 20) say something I KNEW was not true at the pet store today (they NEED a night bulb and that coils are fine, both of which are totally false) and couldn’t convince my parents otherwise. Ugh. Feeling very frustrated rn. I feel like I can’t take care of him right. If it gets too bad and he’s clearly unhealthy/unhappy then I might have to give him up which I REALLY do NOT want to do.
 

HoomanSlave

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
Messages
691
Location
Hogwarts
yeahhh my parents just go off of what the teenagers at the pet store say. I can’t convince them otherwise because “they know what theyre doing”. Had a girl (prob about 20) say something I KNEW was not true at the pet store today (they NEED a night bulb and that coils are fine, both of which are totally false) and couldn’t convince my parents otherwise. Ugh. Feeling very frustrated rn. I feel like I can’t take care of him right. If it gets too bad and he’s clearly unhealthy/unhappy then I might have to give him up which I REALLY do NOT want to do.
You could try informing your parents that the pet store employees are forced to sell as many products as possible, not give actual care advice. They're really not qualified to help, most of them read through the garbage care pamphlets and are labeled as "reptile experts" by the stores.

If you can find one and convince them to take you, visit a reputable reptile specialist store where they can get good information from someone with experience. You can also show them videos or articles created by experienced beardie keepers.

The Petsmart and Petco bearded dragon "care guides" are geniunely one of the worst things I've ever read, and it's the advice most of their employees follow. Petco claims beardies live for 3-10 years and that hiding all day is normal... yikes.
 
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